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Kevin's D1
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SACKO7
SHEPPARTON AUSTRALIA
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November 15, 2020 - 2:30 am
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Hi all, I am new to the club, I am in Shepparton, Victoria in beautiful Covid19 free Australia. I wish all members and their families to stay safe in these trying times. I have been involved with BSA bikes for a short while now and I am a complete novice. I have 3 D1's all plungers. One has matching numbers and I will restore it back to original, one is running and one is nearly ready but I am having issues with the clutch. All have retained their original patina. I also have a swingarm frame I will start collecting for and a complete 1939 M20 that I am currently restoring. The clutch issue is as follows, I have dismantled the clutch pack, replaced with three new driven wheels and reassembled, I have put back the small valve like rod prior to replacing the clutch pack. I obtained a new clutch cable and I had to take about 1 inch of the outer cable off to get it to fit, the clutch adjuster appears to do nothing and the clutch lever on the handlebar does not want to return all the way on its own and is very stiff to squeeze. With the rear wheel in the air, selecting the clutch will not allow the wheel to spin when engaged and in gear. I cannot diagnose the problem, there is not a lot of movement going in from the device the adjuster screw is attached too and personally I still think the cable is too long but any shorter and it wont fit. Any idea's will be greatly appreciated.

regards

Kevin

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sunny
Norfolk
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November 16, 2020 - 12:23 pm
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hi Kevin          the   bigest  NO NO       is   puting  a  ballbearing     between  the  2  push rods inside  the    gear shaft    as  it  usly  means  a new 

gear shaft   so  chech   no body    has done that   ,.,    you  shoud   NOT  need  cut  the  cable         if the  cluch is  that  bad  it sounds  like  all parts 

need  replaceing                ,., the  ballbearing is   fited   INSIDE  the   actuator next  to the ajuster  STUD   ,  a  RUBBER  tube   seal  [  P/no  132  ] sits   next to the

actuator   on  the      long   bush  rod    this  acks  like  a spring  like  the  6 plate  spring     hepling    the  h / lever  to  retern     so  see  how  you  get  on   &  have  fun       sorry  to   say   wen  lots  of  parts  are    worn  out   its  harder   to  I/D  the  problam  

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Number6
Lincolnshire
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November 16, 2020 - 2:07 pm
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Have to agree, summat is up with that, needs taking apart for a good coating of looking at. laugh

This is what sunny means, the ball is No. 172

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I'm wondering if the pushrod is bent? Or as sunny says a ballbearing in there has broken up and is jamming it. cry

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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November 16, 2020 - 4:25 pm
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Hi,

When you say the adjuster does nothing is there any resistance when you screw it in? Is the long pushrod present and of the correct length?

Unfortunately replacement cables often seem to need fettling!

Regards.

“There’s nothing new under the sun”.

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SACKO7
SHEPPARTON AUSTRALIA
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November 17, 2020 - 5:20 am
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Thanks guys for your advice, on removing the adjusting bolt their appears to be nothing for it to contact. What should the adjusting screw actually be doing and against what. When I received the bike it had no cables at all, I replaced all cables and brake shoes and clutch plates and I have had the motor running and revving but only in neutral as I cannot get the clutch to work.

cheers

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SACKO7
SHEPPARTON AUSTRALIA
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November 17, 2020 - 5:22 am
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Also is there a picture or diagram showing a cross view of the clutch components?

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cocorico
Central France
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November 17, 2020 - 7:41 am
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SACKO7 said
...What should the adjusting screw actually be doing and against what...

SACKO7 said
Also is there a picture or diagram showing a cross view of the clutch components?  

Look at the appropriate Service Sheet in the Members Area.

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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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November 17, 2020 - 8:49 am
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Hi,

If we're talking about the same bolt (!) the one on the left side of the engine, then it should screw in against the clutch pushrod.  If screwed in too far the clutch plates will be separated, the correct adjustment is for there to be a small amount of free play before pulling the clutch lever separates the plates.  Too much free play and the plates will not be separated, too little and the plates will be held apart and slip.

Regards

“There’s nothing new under the sun”.

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SACKO7
SHEPPARTON AUSTRALIA
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November 21, 2020 - 12:47 am
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Well thanks guys for all your help, I managed to make a flywheel removing tool and removed that. On removing the engine cover I found that there was definately no ball bearing between the adjusting screw and the long pushrod. There was also what was left of some sort of hard rubber that appeared to be on the adjusting screw end but was doing nothing but fouling the movement of the pushrods. Would this have been like a seat between the long pushrod and the ball bearing? All processing well now thanks all again   Cheers

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Stoo63
GLASGOW
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November 21, 2020 - 8:13 am
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It's the rubber bush no.61 ** Please log in to view **  This is a handy page for parts diagrams 🙂

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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sunny
Norfolk
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November 21, 2020 - 9:26 am
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hi  Kevin     post  no 11   the  ballbng   no  172     its  INSIDE   the  actoator    91 ,.the  seal    slides  along   no  61  being  on  the  puchrod  60    please also look at posts number   2  &  9     a  locknut  shuold  be  on the   ajuster   stud   not   the  seal 

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Unitminor
Norfolk
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November 21, 2020 - 1:49 pm
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Some time ago when I rebuilt a d3 engine I had similar problems with the clutch not working . The problem turned out to be that rubber bush , in the end I removed it which cured the problem . I don t know why it caused a problem perhaps it got hard over the years but I no longer replace that bush on my engines . If all else fails it may be worth you removing your bush and see what happens .

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sunny
Norfolk
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November 21, 2020 - 2:17 pm
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sorry  chaps    iv   got   the  numbers    wrong  to  corret    myself     the   SEAL 61  P/ no  132     slids  along  the [   pushrod  60   P/ no    90-0099   ],.

The    seal     p/n   132    is   best  being  very   soft  tube      this  stops    gearbox    oil   wastage     p/n  132   is  a     flexable   seal  BSA call  a  bush

   i ges   cox   it   dos  both

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Unitminor
Norfolk
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November 21, 2020 - 3:32 pm
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Sunny I recon you have the answer to why i had problems as the bush that I had was very hard . A soft one would have had a bit of give in it where the hard one that was fitted to mine definitely did not have any give . 

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cocorico
Central France
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November 21, 2020 - 5:10 pm
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All it does is protect the pushrod from road dirt, it sits in a fixed gap between the two casings so shouldn't need to change size. I used a length of neoprene tube that was a slack fit over the rod

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sunny
Norfolk
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November 21, 2020 - 5:39 pm
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have  a  look  in  post  9      P/No  132   is  between    actoator  &  gearshaft

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