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A D3 Restoration out of the American West!
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NoviceD3er
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April 2, 2019 - 1:23 am
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Hey Chris, thanks for the note, no hijack at all. and thanks for the link BSAdave, it's exactly as I thought. your front seat bracket extends out straight from seat, mine is welded 90 degrees different, and extends straight down. Will cut an offset bracket see if i like it, before I cut that bracket out and try to reposition it. - appreciate the note.

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NoviceD3er
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April 2, 2019 - 1:35 am
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Ok, a rhetorical question and a couple of exciting pictures.

The question: Just how much freaking time am I going to spend rebuilding this taillight so i can use the original housing and lens? (Apparently an extraordinary amount!!! (here new wire soldered on, and getting cleaned up).

IMG_2259-1.jpg

More seriously, that went back together ok, and I am very excited to have the big stuff laid out and ready...!!! Now if someone would just magically clean those front fork springs for me.....

IMG_2343-1.jpgIMG_2275-1.jpg

 

Actually better shot after getting everything out. I wouldn't have said i was a neat freak, until i looked at this picture.

57447462816__15FFEA47-DE3B-4941-8739-A328D0D81B1F-1.jpg

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Mags 1
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April 2, 2019 - 11:45 am
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I'm enjoying seeing your bike and its progress, a good job you're doing here.

One small word of advice to anyone rebuilding a Bantam of this age, don't forget to run a separate earth (ground) wire to main frame or battery even, from back light fitting, as with so much new paint I doubt you'll manage to get any electrical connection at all.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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NoviceD3er
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April 2, 2019 - 5:11 pm
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It's a good reminder Dave, i am hitting the main fixtures with a touch of sandpaper, and will ground it well.

I am attaching another 'before' and 'during' couple of pictures below. Yuck. And I appreciate the post someone had in here about boiling the gaiters for a few minutes before getting them in place. I am waiting until my wife isn't home to use her pasta pot....

IMG_2432.jpgIMG_2454.jpg

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NoviceD3er
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April 3, 2019 - 5:57 am
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And so it begins!

that rear wheel then fender is a PITA to center and get sorted, it turns out.

IMG_2063-1.jpg

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stubaker58
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April 3, 2019 - 3:03 pm
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Hi,

great work, so neat and clean! Puts my workbench to shame.

BTW you might want to look at that rear brake linkage, I think it should be the other way up with the rod above the pillion rest. Someone will know and have a picture.

regards

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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cocorico
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April 3, 2019 - 3:37 pm
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Like this? Also a picture of a D3 seat nose mount.

 

Lange.jpgIMG_0415-resize.JPG

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The Bantam Club Forum - all the answers are in there. If not, Google may.

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stubaker58
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April 3, 2019 - 4:00 pm
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That’s how I’ve always seen them, but looking at the two D’s look a better arrangement! I seem to remember from my D3 swinger that the rod fouled the frame when it was above the footrest too. The leverage also looks better with it below.

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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sunny
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April 3, 2019 - 6:53 pm
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hi  Stubaker     is  your   D 7/14   hybrd    the  one   i  see  at  the  norfolk  summer   camp  with  cams  on  each  end  of  the  crankshaft    hows  it   going   thes   days  

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stubaker58
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April 3, 2019 - 8:57 pm
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Hi Sunny,

No, sorry, mines not so radical! Just a stripped down D7 Trail Bronc Wannabe with D14 crankcases, a D7 crank, D10 barrel ...

Just filled in my form for the Rally so see you there?

Regards.

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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NoviceD3er
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April 5, 2019 - 12:48 am
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Cocorico and Stubaker, you guys are brilliant. Mine came with the brake arm under like that... so i assumed it was right. Appreciate the heads up and the pics.

Hey here is my rig for the after market seat I have. I made the bracket in the first picture. Apparently my drilled holes were a little too close, and I needed some adjusting room, hence one ugly hole. Wiggled it into place with some spacers, you can see it sits largely flat in the second pic.

Last pic shows what it looks like from the rear, you can see that offset from the seat threads to the frame. We will see how that looks when it is off the lift with both wheels down, if it looks low and not level, then I will go the route of cutting that front bracket out, welding it more laterally, and using 2 inch springs.

IMG_2281-1.jpgIMG_2438-1-1.jpgIMG_2392-1-1.jpg

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cocorico
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April 5, 2019 - 7:49 am
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Nicely done - I just wonder if you might find it a bit low?

The Bantam Club Forum - all the answers are in there. If not, Google may.

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sunny
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April 5, 2019 - 8:24 am
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yes   a  grate   job     the finish   hight   of  the  seats  is  usly     the  hight  between  the  top  of  the  headstok & the  frunt   tank bolt holes     the  maxiamin   size  of  a  rear   carrier   is   12 1/2 "  by  8 1/2 inches    if  its  from  B S A  if  its   anuther  mack  its  1/4 of an inch wider  and  may  only  have   2   legs      on  some  m/c  modles ,.,.     the  long   rear  brack  rod  is  the  same   hight  as  the  swingarm  shaft so  the  pull  is the  same  with  movment  of  the  swingarm

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NoviceD3er
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April 6, 2019 - 2:29 pm
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Thanks Cocorico, and Sunny.

Yes i figure it will be a bit low, but easy enough to lift if needed. I just didn't want to start with the back of the seat cocked up higher than the front and ruin the line of the bike (in my view). i had said way earlier, there is something about the lines of the Bantam that is just really appealing... but i have this feeling this is going to bug me until i put like 2 inch springs under the seat. we'll see!

Sunny thanks so much for the specifics on the measurements and comparable measurement checks. I don't know what type of seat this was originally a repro of, I got it at a swapmeet, looked 'close to right'. For now this is heavy enough bracket set up for my big a**

Just posting a picture for fun. you can see in an earlier photo, the engine cover plate looked like someone ran over it with a sander or something. You can see below that has polished out great, there was also a big scraped flat spot at the bottom that smoothed out as well. I kept the sign in the background, I was inspired by an earlier post, by BSA Dave I think it was, who had a pic of a «censored» finger from repairing a Bantam tire tube...

(Ok now adding this edit - this post made me burst out laughing, apparently when an American innocently types 'bl**dy finger' the British English site censors the first word)

IMG_2528.jpgand

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BSAdave
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April 7, 2019 - 6:37 pm
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I remember the picture you are referring to thumbs-up. is it OK to copy the picture so i can use it on my web page ? thanks

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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NoviceD3er
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April 7, 2019 - 9:22 pm
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of course man, happy to send it to you as well.

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BSAdave
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April 8, 2019 - 6:52 pm
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thumbs-uptip-my-hat

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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NoviceD3er
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April 9, 2019 - 7:43 pm
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It's time to do some wiring. Not my strongest area, but the wiring harness I have, while a mess, 'seems' pretty straightforward. So will give it a go! I am going to start st the bottom with new spark plug wire, and leads. As always I am up for ANY advice or ideas! I haven't touched anything inside here yet, but it seems in great shape.

Step 1, red, green, and white...

IMG_2529.jpg

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GlenAnderson
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April 9, 2019 - 8:43 pm
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Don’t solder the H/T wire to the coil. It will fail, sooner or later, by breaking the little tag off the coil. Usually in the middle of nowhere. 

Just put about 3/8” of bared wire through the tag, and wrap it around itself a couple of turns. 

Generally, it’s best not to solder anything subjected to vibration and dampness. Much better to use crimped or screw terminals. 

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NoviceD3er
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April 9, 2019 - 10:49 pm
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Thanks Glen, it was soldered originally, and as you can see I went there!  good advice though and I appreciate it. (and I live in Arizona, dampness is never a problem here!)

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