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A D3 Bantam Called Camilla
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Bob-B
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February 8, 2017 - 8:49 pm
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Switch is only slightly worn, but enough to jam it up. A skim of the plate the ball bearing runs in and some grease should sort it.

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Bob-B
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February 21, 2017 - 1:56 pm
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Hello Again! Has anyone out there purchased a wiring harness from this seller ** Please log in to view **, if so what is your opinion of it quality wise and how "ready to fit" was it? The feedback seems excellent, just trying to obtain some 1st hand opinions.

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swalsh58
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February 21, 2017 - 2:22 pm
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Bob-B said
Hello Again! Has anyone out there purchased a wiring harness from this seller ** Please log in to view **, if so what is your opinion of it quality wise and how "ready to fit" was it? The feedback seems excellent, just trying to obtain some 1st hand opinions.  

I have bought from him, and he is in the Good Blokes Guide. His work is excellent, he makes looms up to order, he doesn't just buy them from someone else and sell them on. Tell him exactly what you want and he will do it, even soldering in switches for you if required. Quality is very good, and he will label every connection for you if required. he even wired in an ammeter connection for me. I cant recommend him highly enough, but, of course, other people may have different opinions.

Current bikes......1958 D5,  and a 76 Honda C90 in the workshop.

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two-stroke
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February 21, 2017 - 2:24 pm
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Yeah, top notch. Hand made to order and he will even solder on the Wipac socket if you supply it. I understand he will even incorporate mods if you let him know what you want.

thumbs-up

edited

Sorry swalsh58, typing at the same time! Good to see our opinions and information agree.

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Bob-B
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February 23, 2017 - 3:51 pm
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Thanks for the replies, purchase made.

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Bob-B
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March 1, 2017 - 4:13 pm
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All components of the switch (or ECU as I shall call it) have been cleaned and polished, the pins/contact were cleaned with a pencil rubber to be gentle on the surfaces. Took quite a few attempts to figure out how to re-assemble the switch, but there are two ways.

1 is to use a thin cable tie to hold the centre assembly together, place inside the pins before very carefully cutting the tie.

2 is to assemble most of it except one pin and rotate in the springs and contacts, then gently pull the assembly apart again to replace the pin.

Not really worth doing at all! Neither method is easy and probably better to just buy a new one, but I can't resist at least trying to work out how things were originally assembled.

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Still tinkering with getting the enjun running smoothly before committing to a strip and re-build, but I'm running out of tinkering bits left to tinker with...

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Mags 1
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March 1, 2017 - 7:02 pm
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No ball bearings?

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Bob-B
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March 1, 2017 - 7:29 pm
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Only one, which indexes on the aluminium plate where you can see the three holes.

Still only getting the bike to start for a short time and not run properly so this time I took the head off straight after and there's fuel getting past the gasket, at least part of why she's not happy is solved.

As an added bonus my rectifier looks to be working just fine.

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Bob-B
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March 2, 2017 - 12:56 pm
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Have I got the wrong/not original piston in the enjun?

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Where would I find the correct dia. of the cylinder so I can measure up and see what I've actually got here?

Edit: found it and measured up; 58.46mm so definitely been done at some point. Seems like rather a large re-bore though?

Edit to the Edit: Having replaced the gasket, I started the bike again this evening and after a little bit of rough running it settled down and ran fairly smoothly. However, the carb cable adjuster is all the way in and I still have to hold the throttle open to get it to idle. It will idle at remarkably low revs so signs are good that the crank seals are actually good. I suspect that the throttle cable is actually wrong which is why it wont adjust. It even has a nut on the throttle housing end to "stretch" it even more (I'll get a photo to explain this better!). Could someone please post a photo of the position of the carb plunger viewed with the air filter removed when in the idle position/throttle closed so I can see where it should be? I think part of the problem is that the throttle cable is much too long and the carb is too closed.

Muchos grassy bottom!

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Bob-B
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March 3, 2017 - 10:08 am
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So this is how my carb sits with the adjuster fully wound to hold it open as much as possible. What I'd like advice on is whether or not this looks too low or do I need to be troubleshooting elsewhere? Certainly won't idle without holding a bit of throttle on to open it further.

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And here's the extra nut which prevents the cable outer ferrule from going into the throttle grip. If it is too low it's because the cable is not the right one and has had this nut added to take up extra slack, or is something else missing?

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Piquet
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March 3, 2017 - 11:34 am
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It may well be that the cable is too long but, firstly you are missing a cable stop at the twistgrip, something like this

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or this

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also, as has already been said, there is no provision to hold the throttle slide in position to allow the bike to tickover, this is acheived by a friction damper on the twistgrip and it is up to you to set the throttle position to achieve a decent tickover, as no other method of stopping the engine was provided as standard this also allows you to stop the engine by turning the twistgrip back to it's stop. Cornish Rooster explains here

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he also has a Topic devoted to D1 carb maintenance which is equally applicable to the larger D3 carb, it includes a picture similar to yours above.

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hope-that-helps

I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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Bob-B
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March 3, 2017 - 1:07 pm
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Ah! Now I understand! I'll take a look to see if it works.

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Bob-B
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March 7, 2017 - 1:47 pm
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Yep, all working so that's good... Next question!

My rear sprocket is clearly looooong past being serviceable and therefore the front is probably as bad. I'll buy a chain and sprocket set, but what is normally done to replace the rivets? Doesn't look like the kits come with them, do most just replace with bolts? How many teeth is standard?

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Ta

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Bob-B
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March 10, 2017 - 3:24 pm
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On to tank cleaning while I'm sorting out the wiring. I used the method from ** Please log in to view ** and wish I would have taken "before" photos 'cos my tank was pretty horrible inside. The method works brilliantly and I'm very pleased with the results. The metal was bright and shiny after Stage 2 and dulled after the phosphoric acid stage. Now clean as a whistle.

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Bob-B
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March 12, 2017 - 12:53 pm
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Just a quick bump on the chain and sprockets. I've found the details for the rear sprocket (47 teeth) and front (15 teeth), but seem to be getting conflicting details on the chain. Am I right that it's a 1/2" x 3/16"? The number of links seems to differ depending on where I look, either 120 or 121. Both are available with the 121 being harder to find. Help appreciated here.

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Bob-B
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March 12, 2017 - 2:31 pm
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Thanks Mick, so it is the 121 I'm after.

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mike p5xbx
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March 12, 2017 - 5:08 pm
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the gearbox sprocket can be 14-15-or16 teeth I copied the lengths from the Renold chain parts book,
but it did not say what size sprocket the lengths referred to and im not sure what was the original size sprocket on your D3 S/arm model

and 1/2" x 3/16" is Not the correct chain size

EDIT
Seems 15 teeth is the standard size for the D3 S/A so 121 links is correct
full list of sprocket size applications.
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Mike

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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Bob-B
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April 5, 2017 - 6:47 am
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While waiting for a few bits to arrive, I've been searching for spares of things i don't need. I'd really like to get hold of a spare headlight switch but can't find one in white with black lettering like the one i have.

Are the black ones just painted black and the lettering picked out in white and has mine lost its paint them had the lettering picked out again in black?

Are there any places i can buy a white switch apart from to keep searching on eBay?

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two-stroke
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April 5, 2017 - 3:32 pm
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There are s/h white plastic switch knobs around but not fitted to a Bantam as original all later Bantam's had black plastic switch knobs with the H & L picked out in white. Only ever seen new reproduction knobs in black.

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Bob-B
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April 5, 2017 - 5:39 pm
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So from what you're saying it's probably been swapped from another bike that's not a Bantam?

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