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1958 D5
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BSAdave
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April 26, 2016 - 8:54 am
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The dip switch was a E bay purchase a little time ago, it was very cheap.  it was going to be used on the plunger, The speedo on the bike now came of the Bitsa Bantam which has got a 18 inch wheel and reads correct so should be OK on the D5 , I still need to sort out the 375 carb.

The D5 looks much better in the photos than real life, I do intend to strip it all down again in the winter and do the paint work and chrome work. I need to finish the plunger if the weather ever warms up.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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sunny
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April 26, 2016 - 3:03 pm
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Hi  Dave   the   375  carb      are     needl  4th   from  top   not 2  like  the  rest  &  coz its   allmost  inposable  to  cleane   the  two  smallest  driling   the  aire    screw     start  that  with   just  1/4  of a  tern  from  the  botom ,,,for  starting   then  reset  if  to  rich    ;wen new  it   was  one &  1/4    terns  ,,,,  wel  done  twil  be a lot  beter   with  a  paint   job  

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BSAdave
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May 2, 2016 - 10:04 am
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Fresh fuel, then take the D5 to my local private road and time for a proper shake down ride, It stated second kick and off i went my right foot moving gracefully up and down the gear lever the gears selecting like a well engineered Swiss watch. I hit a speed of 50 MPH , the Bantam was happy to give me more but with the road ending it was time to test the brakes before i went crashing into the brick wall , this is when the Bantam decided to remind me it was a 58 year old machine and although it was quite happy to let me get to full ramming speed it did not want the feeling of freedom to end, oh dear praying to every god that exists and with the left foot pushing down with the full force i could muster and with the right hand grasping onto the brake lever as hard as i could, , I was facing impending doom, It was now a case of death or glory, so using all my skills as a rider i managed to reduce the speed and turn at the same time with the back of the Bantam squireling like a demented demon we both made it. Not wishing this to happen again I took some time out and rechecked both brakes, made adjustments where necessary and this time kept the speed down i made many stops and all was well so it was time to up the speed and try at road legal speeds and it happened again the front brake was tottly useless but the back was working fine.

I went to push the Bantam home and it would not move the front brake was stuck on, Once I got it back to the lock up I removed the front wheel and it was soon obvious what was wrong, the cam was badly worn and rotating fully to its widest part and jamming the shoes open along with one of the brake shoe springs being badly bent out of shape, I had a spare brake plate which just happened to have new shoes fitted this was put on and a further test ride under taken and all was back to how it should be.

It is still running using the cheap carb, I have now fitted a new float to the Amal and will be fitting this back  to the D5.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Velton
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May 2, 2016 - 11:32 am
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Dave, that locking on of the brake cam can be caused by excessively worn linings and previous owners moving the brake arm around on its splines - the combination of which then allows the cam to rotate too far.

Might be worth pulling the rear wheel apart to check whether it has the same problem looming?

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BSAdave
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May 3, 2016 - 10:46 am
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Velton said
Dave, that locking on of the brake cam can be caused by excessively worn linings and previous owners moving the brake arm around on its splines - the combination of which then allows the cam to rotate too far.

Might be worth pulling the rear wheel apart to check whether it has the same problem looming?

I have just checked the rear and that is OK, Thank you for the heads up

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Kirkbybil
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May 3, 2016 - 11:20 am
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Congratulations Dave, That's two things I never though I'd see in my lifetime, Leicester winning the Premiership and someone restoring a D5 and actually getting it running again! I know it's been done in the past but not for some time - I'm very envious bravo_gif

On another note, if you have worn pads at the point they meet the cam, or if the cam itself is worn, have a look at my Heath Robinson fix that I did when I found a similar issue (but probably with steel, not Aluminium).

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It seems to work and it'll put a few more miles life into them.

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Maddog Leary
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May 3, 2016 - 11:46 am
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Velton said
Dave, that locking on of the brake cam can be caused by excessively worn linings and previous owners moving the brake arm around on its splines - the combination of which then allows the cam to rotate too far.

Might be worth pulling the rear wheel apart to check whether it has the same problem looming?

I've also read that excessive 'skimming' of the drum wall can also exasserbate (dodgy spelling I know) the worn cam issue and help the locking issue.

MD

Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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BSAdave
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May 3, 2016 - 3:53 pm
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Thank you for all the replies, This very morning I sent the paper work off to Mr Walsh to get the dating cert sorted, I have bound to have mucked that up. I hate paper work.  The D5 keeps calling me to take it out for a ride. Temptation it's getting too much.

To ease the calling I dragged the AJS out and carried the preliminary flight checks and took it for a healthy ride around Hertfordshire I even ventured onto the M25. I have drafted an advert and it will be going up for sale, then I moved all my spare Land rover wheels (20) out of the bike safe and moved the 49er into it.

I'm looking forward to riding the D5. it has a strange aura about it. i'm going to get the local wiccan wench to take a look at it. There not all in Norfolk you know.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Derek's D5
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May 3, 2016 - 9:05 pm
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Dave, that sounds a little like my D5 'back on the road' trip back in 2014, except that I was on a public road, and I was careful on the throttle. Neither brake did much at all and I nearly ran into Him Indoors' car. I thought of you over the weekend. I found the old rubber footrests that I ground down on the tarmac as a yoof. I might put them back on, just for old times' sake.

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BSAdave
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May 4, 2016 - 12:11 pm
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I have took the carb apart and it is all very clean. The main jet is marked Amal 140, now according to my information

 the settings for the carb 375/31 should be : jetting Main 140, Pilot 25, Slide number 3.5, needle position 2 (from the top).

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7093/26204811584_43ced93baf_b.jpg

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Derek's D5
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May 4, 2016 - 12:26 pm
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That's all correct Dave. Undo the big brass fitting at the bottom and you'll see your needle jet. You're missing the clip at the top that stops the knurled ring from loosening, but I don't think it really has much of an effect. You can see my carb top dangling on the left side of this pic and the rusty brown thing is the clip.

RIMG0886.JPG

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BSAdave
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May 4, 2016 - 1:23 pm
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Just put the amal carb back on, the frigging Bantam just will not start with this carb,I can see nothing wrong with it, but it just dumps large amounts of petrol into the crank cases and floods the bantam.  So it is back on with the cheap carb at least with that one it will start on first or second kick.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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May 4, 2016 - 1:49 pm
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Just put the VM22 carb back on and first kick the Bantam starts, When I get some more time I'm going to  remove the amal 375 carb from one of my working bantams and try the one on the d5 on that and see if it does the same thing.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Derek's D5
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May 4, 2016 - 2:00 pm
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Lornas-D5-footrest.jpg

Here's my footrest. It must have been grounded before the Mist Green paint from my BF's D1 got spilled on it.

Look carefully and you'll see two separate grind marks at different positions... I only did it once.

Your carb Dave, I bet the float needle isn't doing its job. Have you cleaned out the bit where it seats and is it a new needle?

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BSAdave
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May 5, 2016 - 12:04 pm
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I have been distracted this morning by the arrival of the Dating cert, what fantastic work by Mr Walsh, I sent it off on Tuesday and today I got the certificate.

It left the factory on 12/03/1958 and went to Fairtown and Laycock  , and Black is the original colour. it started life out in  Pickering, North Yorkshire I suppose I will never find out how it ended up down south. Does any one remember the bike shop ?

 

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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May 20, 2016 - 2:04 pm
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Sent all the paper work of to the DVLA on the 5th, It was signed for on the 6th, i have not heard from them at all so I phoned them up today, they checked the tracking information and said they could see it had been signed for by them but other than that they had no record of it, They told me to phone back on Monday and if they could not find it they would have to carry out an investigation , frigging hell

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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HowD1
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May 20, 2016 - 8:49 pm
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BSAdave said
Just put the amal carb back on, the frigging Bantam just will not start with this carb,I can see nothing wrong with it, but it just dumps large amounts of petrol into the crank cases and floods the bantam.  So it is back on with the cheap carb at least with that one it will start on first or second kick.  

Apart from what Dookie has said about the inlet needle and seat, I seem to remember that monoblocs have a potential issue with the spacers on the float pivot. If they are inserted the wrong way round (one is shorter than the other?) the float jams once the cover is refitted as it is placed too tight to the cover so the carb floods because the float is stuck open. 

Worth a look?

Otherwise monoblocs generally seem to work ok.

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BSAdave
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May 24, 2016 - 10:32 am
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Did you hear about the bloke who did not read the DVLA form correctly and sent his original passport off with all the other information that was required including the original dating certificate and now the DVLA can't find his passport ? .

or for that matter any of the other information but they must have got it has they sent a letter saying the D5 needs to be inspected.

What an idiot.

I'm now going to try and fit the seat grab handle. I might even try and have another go at the monobloc carb, The D5 does run soo good with the Vm22 copy not sure if i want to take it off . decisions decisions. 

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Kirkbybil
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May 24, 2016 - 8:19 pm
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Do you want to do an experiment and swap carbs? smile

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Derek's D5
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May 24, 2016 - 9:24 pm
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HowD1 said

Apart from what Dookie has said about the inlet needle and seat, I seem to remember that monoblocs have a potential issue with the spacers on the float pivot. If they are inserted the wrong way round (one is shorter than the other?) the float jams once the cover is refitted as it is placed too tight to the cover so the carb floods because the float is stuck open. 

Worth a look?

Otherwise monoblocs generally seem to work ok.  

There's only one spacer on the float pivot and it goes on the outside (nearest the float chamber cover). Dave have you tried replacing all the wear-out-able bits in the carb? Mine runs so much better. The old parts were visibly worn or in bad condition compared with the new parts, and I thought it ran ok before but it's much better now.

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