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1958 D5
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BSAdave
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April 10, 2016 - 8:45 am
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Mags 1 said
Nice bike and good progress.

Rear chain looks like one of those 420 type ones?

You are right Mags, also in post 34 I said, "I have to take the timing side off again to fit the new gear box sprocket.   The PO had told me he fitted a new 420 chain and rear sprocket but the original pitch engine sprocket was still fitted"

In the box of bits i got there is a new engine sprocket

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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April 10, 2016 - 8:53 am
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Yesterday I went to Whitewebs museums as they had a antojumble on, not much for sale but an interesting place to visit , there was a D3 for sale, the seller wanted £1000 for it !!

I managed to get an exhaust end piece, A Pitmans book on the Bantam, A end cone for my AJS 250 CSR, and a tee shirt, you got to get a tee shirt.

Being as I keep getting criticised and for posting non Bantam pictures , I won't load the pictures here.

This is the Bantam that was for sale.

20160409_110018.jpg

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sunny
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April 10, 2016 - 9:12 am
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HI  dave  did   you  manage   to  park  inside   Whitwebbs     &   did  you  see   the  gray  D3  on  show  or  was  that  part  closed    

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BSAdave
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April 10, 2016 - 9:32 am
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Yes parked right outside the shop that has all the car parts for sale, most of the shops with the displays was closed but i do intend to go there when it is all open. some of the pictures can be found here.

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20160409_105559.jpg

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sunny
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April 10, 2016 - 10:01 am
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THanks  Dave   

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BSAdave
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April 13, 2016 - 10:14 am
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Yesterday  I refurbished the D5 battery carrier, I started by sanding all the rust off then gave it a coat of Krust once this was cured I sprayed it in primmer and this morning gave it its first coat of gloss black. While the primmer was drying I fitted the speedo but not the cable as I am waiting for this to turn up. Then it was time to take photos of the engine number and frame numbers in readiness for the applying for a dating cert. I then sent the pictures for printing, By the time these turn up I should have the wiring sorted out so it will be all ready for the application.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Derek's D5
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April 13, 2016 - 11:52 am
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Wow, nice. Do you think it will be ready for the club rally? Are you going to fit a battery horn? I will have a spare one six volt one you can have, after I do my 12 volt conversion. I might have a suitable button too. All can be yours if you bring beer to the rally for me! 

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Hans Kreuzen
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April 13, 2016 - 12:32 pm
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Looking great Daveclapthumbs-up

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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BSAdave
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April 14, 2016 - 9:06 am
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Thank you for the replies, It has its faults, the pictures make it look a lot better than it is.

Dookie , I thought the other half was bringing the supplies for you ? but there is loads of room in landy for beers, just let me know what flavour.

If I can get the V5 it will be there, I'm trying to persuade some one I know to lend me there three bike trailer so I can bring the 49 er as well , My trailer is only a single bike one. 

I have also made a big decision to sell the AJS, just as soon as I can dig it out, I think seven bikes is a bit too much. LOL

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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April 14, 2016 - 9:12 am
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Dookie ignore that just read your other post about the other half, plenty of room for beer

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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April 14, 2016 - 9:38 am
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Just been for a ride around the garden, I have now noticed a exhaust leak from the down pipe into the silencer, , I removed the down pipe and found it only just reaches into the silencer, do they make a longer down pipe ? I did think about moving the silencer forward by altering the silencer bracket but then the kick starter will hit the silencer.

Still try to find motivation to do the wiring.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Derek's D5
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April 14, 2016 - 9:56 am
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Mine leaks there a bit too. It will probably plug itself with use, but I also notice that the pattern downpipes are not quite as long as the originals, hence less overlap of the two pipes. Have you got a decent clamp there? Is your silencer an original one or a pattern? I wouldn't move the silencer forward because you then might find that not only the kickstart hits it, but also it might not clear the footrest bar. The original silencers have a big dent (intentional) underneath to clear the footrest. The pattern ones don't, but you could always try adding your own dent.

Is there no wiring at all? I'm sure there's a diagram on here somewhere. I have downloaded it in the past.

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sunny
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April 14, 2016 - 11:43 am
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hi Dookie  &  Dave   a  D 14  silener  braket  will  moov  the  silener  forward  bout   20  mm if you  have one   or  make  one  with the   top  hole  back a  bit    

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BSAdave
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April 14, 2016 - 7:36 pm
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phew all day I have been at it, first job was to remove the rear wheel and run the cables for the rear lights, then while I was at it I checked the rear brake shoes, these were fine. Then i noted that the rear brake middle joining piece was on upside down, brake rods removed and then put back the correct way, then the brake rod nut dispersed into thin air.  I spent an hour or two trying to adjust the rear brake, the actuating arm was sticking with rust,so i removed the wheel again stripped down the rear brakes, cleaned them and refitted the rear wheel again. Then i spent a not considerable time trying to sort out the switch so I could get high and low beam and on/off of the lights with out using a separate dip switch, almost made it work I can turn the lights to either high or low beam but can't figure out how to keep the back light on when switching between high and low, wired the brake light switch in, but did not have the lamps, i tested it out with the volt meter and all appearers to be working. i cam in and ordered the two ES bulbs and a rear tail light bulb, A bit of luck the original head light bulb is working.  At the end of the day the rear brake rod adjusting nut turned up. I'm not going to be fitting a battery for one simple reason I can't  be bothered with all the keeping it on charge and the bike won't get used that much and battery's soon discharge and I have no electric in the lock up and the thought of having to keep removing the seat to remove the battery would do my nut in, So direct lighting it is. The more I look at this bike the more I see wrong with the paint but for this year it will stay as it is. In summary I have high and low beam working the brake lights working and the rear light only works on low beam or permanently on when the lights are off.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Hans Kreuzen
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April 14, 2016 - 9:50 pm
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Sounds like you have been busy, and your bike is looking great.

It is amazing how a small task becomes a big job, especially for people that loose their nutsrofl.

I use direct lighting on my Bantam and it is working fine since I installed the Rex voltage regulator thingemebob.

I used my Bantam on the club run last Sunday and manged to hit a massive hole in the road, big enough to bend my chrome seat springs, I spent the rest of the day riding with my knees up to my ears and my behind on the rear guardrantingIt is fixed now, I straitened it with a big bar, The springs where cheap chrome after market type, (Maybe I am getting to fatunsure)

Keep up the good work, Hans

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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flintdog
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April 14, 2016 - 10:09 pm
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whot ajs do u have dave

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BSAdave
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April 15, 2016 - 9:51 am
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Thank you Hans, I some times question my mental health, I still have the plunger one sitting on the bed ,I'm still waiting for a decent day to spray it so I can get on and finish it. This morning it is raining.

[url=** Please log in to view **]https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1718/26439813735_5a7477d930_b.jpg

Flintdog, It is a AJS 250 CSR registered in 1967, Last year I rode it to the MOT place got it MOT then rode it home i have not used it since.

20150915_122818.jpg

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simon last
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April 16, 2016 - 10:09 am
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BSAdave said
Just realised as well, the speedo and cable are also missing, he did say this in the advert, but on my bitsa Bantam it has fitted the speedo for this bike, so I have bought a cheap generic one and will fit that to the Bitsa and use the correct one of the bitsa on this one.

How can I find out what colour it was when it left the factory ?  Still not sure about the red seat ?

Picked up an identical red seat at an auto jumble for my d3 restoration, think it may have to be recovered!

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BSAdave
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April 16, 2016 - 12:43 pm
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The red seat has grown on me, I quite like it now, yesterday I got rid of the key operated petrol tap for two reasons,

1: Me and keys don't get on and getting fed up keep looking for the thing.

2: The main reason, the spigot snapped off and the fuel pipe just about fitted on and after the fire on the D3 i didn't want to risk it.

I took the bike out of the shed and drained the fuel out then fitted the new tap and spigot that I had purchased for the plunger , then the heavens opened and that was the end of that, I took it back to the shed where I found two rubbers from a steering joint of off a VW golf that fitted over the two nuts that support the middle of the seat. The rain never stopped all day by late afternoon the garden was flooded in places.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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April 16, 2016 - 1:21 pm
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The postman has just delivered the photos and the regulator that I ordered from Rex Yesterday, same first class service from Rex.

I also found a dip switch that I forgot I had.

I am just waiting for the V55/5 from the DVLA and to find some one to verify the pictures and numbers then I can apply for a age related number. One step closer.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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