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wonky clutch operation
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dave
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July 31, 2013 - 6:33 pm
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how-do all,

 

so, during the ongoing sage of my owning/riding my D3 I've hit a snag...I've been doing some work on the primary chain side, namely, replacing the bronze bush that the clutch basket sits on as the old one had worn, causing the clutch basket to wobble...I've also replaced the bronze thrust washer and the primary chain whilst I was at it...the new parts have sorted out the clutch basket wobble. buthaving put it all back together, I noticed that if I pulled the clutch in, whilst pushing the bike in gear, thgears would not disengage...firstly I tried fiddling with the clucth adjustment on the left-hand side of the engine; screwing the adjuster rod in until resistence is first felt, then unscrewing a half turn and tightening up the holding nut, to no avail. so I restripped he right-hand side, and put the clutch basket back together, but left the right hand side cover off, so I could see what was happening and it looks like whenI pull in the clutch, only 2 of the 3 pressure plates and clutch pads move, with the clutch pad and pressure plate closest to the engine staying put...would this be why squeezing the clutch lever doesn't fully disengage the gears? and if so, what would cause that?

are the 6 clutch springs tired, or anything else anyone can think of? I tried replacing the ball-bearing that sits inbetween the the clutch operating rod and mushroom thing, as the old one was badly worn, but again, to no improvement...any offers of council would be very appreciated.

 

cheers as ever, hope all's well...?

 

dave

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Big Al
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July 31, 2013 - 8:07 pm
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Hi Dave.

Firstly the springs should be ok as they are there to squeeze the plates together so it drives. Make sure the left hand engine side casing is tight, so it's not spreading away from the engine when you pull the clutch in.

If you wind the clutch adjuster screw out so you have quite a bit of free play on the lever, can you pull the clutch basket in and out from the engine? If so this end float will limit your clutch clearance. There should be a little movement, but nothing significant.

If all ok there then try winding the adjuster screw in so there is no clearance at all and maybe screw it in a bit more so it's starting to break the clutch, then work your clutch lever and see if it clears then.

Next step is to pull the clutch apart and make sure that none of the plates are stuck together. You will have some "oil suction" but they should slide against one another.

Check the clutch basket slots for burrs/ridges which can jam the pressure plates and stop them from releasing.

Check the drive spline which the friction plates slide on for wear ridges which can also jam the plate and stop it from releasing.

Also make sure no plates are warped/bent/distorted.

Think there's enough there to get you started.

Good luck

Al

 

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mike p5xbx
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August 1, 2013 - 12:10 am
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and also..
when you tightened up the clutch centre nut did you check that the clutch basket moved freely and independently from the clutch centre spline

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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Iain
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August 1, 2013 - 12:25 pm
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That last post of Mikes is a good one to check, I found this happened on my bike due to the thrust washer being slightly thicker than the old one.

 

It needed the washer to be rubbed down with emery paper on a glass plate to keep it flat, with trial and error to see how much needed to be removed to enable the centre nut to be tight but the clutch drum to be able to move separately fron the centre.

 

Good way of removing your finger prints as well!

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dave
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August 1, 2013 - 3:55 pm
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smashing stuffs! cheers fellas...I'll try all this good stuff and report back...cheers muchly.

 

dave thumbs-up

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Paul Davies
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August 1, 2013 - 5:00 pm
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Could you have for gotten to re-install the ball bearing between the clutch adjustment screw & the long clutch push rod (or could it have fallen out when you weren't looking, as has happened to me!!)?

If that ball isn't there, fully squeezing the lever won't cause the clutch to dis-engage as much as you are expecting.

P

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dave
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August 4, 2013 - 6:19 pm
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mike p5xbx said
and also..
when you tightened up the clutch centre nut did you check that the clutch basket moved freely and independently from the clutch centre spline

 

hi Mike et al.

so, I've got the clutch basket apart again, and I've a few further questions (if you can bare 'em?!)

what exactly do you mean when you say that 'the clutch basket should move freely and independently from the clutch centre spline'?

the new phosphor-bronze spacer bush (top-hat shape) that I have fitted is a very tight fit both over the mainshaft and within the centre of the clutch-basket...I had to heat up the bronze spacer and then tap it onto the mainshaft with a rubber mallet to get it on, and likewise I had to tap the clutch-basket on over the bronze spacer with the rubber mallet to...is that the cause of my problems? which of those parts should move freely and independantly of one another, if any?

basically, as it stands, with the bronze spacer on, the clutch basket turns with the spacer which turns with the mainshaft, regardless of how tight or not the clutch centre nut/washers may or may not be, and I'm not sure which bits should move independently of one another or not?

any furher help/advice will be greatly appreciated, as ever...cheers!

 

dave

 

oh, and cheers Paul, but yep, I've got the ball-bearing safely in there, cheers...

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mike p5xbx
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August 5, 2013 - 12:34 am
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The clutch basket, I.E. the outer part that the primary chain fits on should be able to spin round freely when you hold and stop the center splined part from moving
primary chain needs to be removed to check this properly
sounds like the bronze spacer bush is locking the clutch up.

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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dave
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August 8, 2013 - 9:00 pm
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well, cheer sto the sage advice above, I sorted out my ineffectual clutch issues...problem is, I'm now back to my original issue 

 of the bike not starting on the kickstart?

 

 

 

the timings set right, there loads of sparks at the plug-end, the carbs clean as a whistle, there's fresh petrol in there, and it bump starts & runs fine, but cant even get a splutter out of it on the kicker? which is baffling me completely as it was working fine until it upped and died with a clunk, which lead me to fix the clutch side up in the first place...any ideas  as to what to do next would be greatly appreciated as I'm hitting a wall with it at the mo...cheers much

 

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dave
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August 8, 2013 - 9:02 pm
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(excuse the weird spacing above...as well as my bike, it seems my puter has gone wonky to!) dave

 

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mike p5xbx
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August 8, 2013 - 11:56 pm
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often a lack of crankcase Vacuum ie leaking crank seals will make a bike bumpable but not kickable
are you using the choke to start it? try a squirt of easystart into the carb mouth with the choke open.

what was the fix for the clutch problem from the “above” advice

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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dave
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August 26, 2013 - 11:17 pm
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hey Mike (and anyone else whom may have any ideas)

so yeah, you are right about the non kick-starting being due to a lack of compression, as having unsuccessfully fiddled about with it for a while now, I've noticed a couple of hefty leaks from underneath the engine (where the cases join) and now the bike will barely jump start...

I've got the engine out of the frame and was just wondering if there was a fix that didn't involve a full engine strip? anybody had any joy with sealing leaky crank cases from the outside? and if so, how and what did you use? or is it a case of splitting the cases and trying to sort it out thataway?

 

as ever, any advice would be greatly appreciated...

 

(oh, and mike, I fixed the clutch issue by very gingerly removing material from the bronze spacer bush until it no longer bound up the clutch basket...which worked a treat, ta...now just gotta sort out this air-leak!)

 

cheers,

 

dave

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