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WILL NOT START !
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ROBERT
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November 12, 2011 - 6:41 pm
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Hello everyone, could someone please help ! rebuilt my D7 175 and it is very hard to start. Have a good spark and fuel at the plug have checked the timing a hundred times, after what seems a thousand kicks it starts, revs well and ticks over ok. Come to re start it after 1 min or 1 hour..same problem. Have also replaced the fuel (Stood for 3 months). I cant think what else it can be, any suggestions please....if any one is near Barnsley (South Yorkshire)....

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Somerstown
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November 12, 2011 - 7:16 pm
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First thought, have you tried a different spark plug? I have know them to spark out of the engine but not under compression.

Are you sure the HT lead is not earthing out somewhere? Easier to see in the dark. On a different bike spent hours trying to work out what was wrong. As it started to get dark, I could see the HT lead earthing on the frame.

Just wondering if the condenser is packing in?

I am sure you will get more suggestions. Good luck.

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ROBERT
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November 12, 2011 - 8:37 pm
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Hello many thanks for the reply. Have fitted different plugs and cap, condenser I think is ok, no spark at the points when opened. Blue spark at plug .This really has me stumped ! been at it for a week now !

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iwasere
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November 12, 2011 - 10:54 pm
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Could be engine is oiled up, is it smoking a lot when it does start? have you tried draining crankcase, probably no option when won’t start but continuos kicking over will usually only make it worse. I get this problem from time to time particularly in cold weather, when my bike’s been stud for a while (2-strokes worst enemy) even though it’s been running perfectly. A lot of hassle but found solution was to drain tank and put in neat petrol no oil, Starts straight away smokes a bit but soon clears. Hope might help.

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Cornish Rooster
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November 13, 2011 - 3:49 am
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If you are certain all is well with the ignition the next place to go is the carb, you might have some water, residue of oil or sediment in there. I drain the float bowls on my bikes around once a month regardless of any problems, my Bantam quite often gets a residue of two-stroke oil built up in there especially when its not been used too much. Is the inside of your fuel tank rust free ? are you using an inline fuel filter ? is the strainer on the fuel tap clear ?
I ended up getting a small ultra-sonic cleaner for cleaning my Bantam carb as the jets, drillings etc are tiny on a D1 carb and the smallest amount of sediment or whatever causes no end of hassles, also as the previous post mentioned its good policy to check the drain on the crankcase from time to time especially if the bike is not used so much. Its only my opinion but running on the original pre-mix ratio does not help either I'm convinced running a lesser ratio actually improves running.

Phil

BSA Bantam D1 "150" in use regularly often as general purpose transport, quite a few other bikes as well. Cornwall Area Rep. 

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waterman
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November 13, 2011 - 9:58 am
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ROBERT: I had a similar problem to yours, it would start and run OK on tick over , it would also rev cleanly, but once I put the engine under load, it would die, waitied a few minutes and it would start agin, same as before, tick over fine, rev fine, but once under load, it would die. I stripped down carb and I mean stripped down the whole carb, including very screw jet and spring, too which there are not many, then rebuilt it.

I'm a northerner so taking money out of my pocket there has to be some great value. I used the old method of cleaning my carb, hot soap and water with some very fine wire, but stiff wire. Works well for me!! I have asked Santa for a Ultrasonic Cleaner...

I'm not that well up on Bantams, but this forum and the members has proved very, very useful indeed in suggestions on possible causes. It may also be prudent to check the filter in your fuel tank, mine was "gunged" up with crud, not sure if it was in before I bought the bike though, stripped down and replaced.

I then put it all back together again, new fuel which I strained just incase the crud came from the petrol container, tickled the carb, kicked it over and went for a 50 mile run......runs fantastic...hope this has helped! PS don't forget to take your mobile!!!

Andy

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ROBERT
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November 14, 2011 - 1:25 pm
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Can I say a big thank you to Somerstown,Waterman, Cornish Rooster and iwasere and everyone. Thanks for all the info; On the engine rebuild I also took the carb down to the small bits and cleaned all parts. Have tried with pure petrol in a bottle attached to the seat to the carb. Last night in garage at about 4.00 (dark) it started and I could see a lot of blue sparks from the contact breaker.. new condenser now on order ! I hope it is just that....not sure.... Thank you for the replies.

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Bournemouth Bantams
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November 14, 2011 - 10:36 pm
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Oil other common fault is oil misting up the points, if the crankshaft oil seals are leaking a petrol/oilmixture this can mist up as it is blown out on to the points, as long as the engine is running it burns off as soon as you stop it collects on the points and bridges the gap, hence no spark. try wiping the points with a clean piece of tissue if the bike starts, or you can see some oil marks on the paper that is probably the problem. easy thing to eliminate.
regards"H"

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