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Petrol leaking through Amal 361 tickler hole
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Strabler
Cambridge
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June 30, 2019 - 10:39 am
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Hi everyone.

I've been having this issue recently that i'm struggling to fix. I'll try to explain the best I can!

When I push the tickler down, instead of fuel spurting out of the tiny hole on the edge of the chamber as it usually does, it starts to pour out of the hole where the tickler sits. (On the float chamber lid.) This continues until I turn the fuel tap off. Is this an issue with a broken seal where the tickler sits inside the float chamber lid?

I've taken the lid off and separated the tickler from it and noticed a couple of things.

1: The tickler itself is rather bent where it shouldn't be.

2: There is a sheath that sits within the top part of the tickler that has come out, perhaps snapped? I'm not sure exactly how it should look. How important is it?

I could be focusing on the wrong thing, perhaps it's more to do with the float/chamber itself? It is rather battered... 

I've attached a few photos if that helps.

Many thanks in advance!

0.jpgsrth.jpg

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AdrianS
Harlaston Staffs
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June 30, 2019 - 11:39 am
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Not familiar with that carb as have later Bantams.

The " hole" at the tickler is always open so for fuel to run out when releasing the tickler suggests that the needle is not cutting off the supply from the tank. Check that the float is not leaking or is punctured. Shake it and listen for fuel inside it. Put it into a bowl of warm water to see if bubbles come out of it. Check the needle and the needle seat to make sure they seal. Could be something simple like a bit of dirt stopping the needle from seating.

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johnsullivan
east sussex
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June 30, 2019 - 11:48 am
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Was the P O the Hulk? The float needle is bent hence the leak,and the dents in the float well black museum time,as is the tickler.I would be on the phone to Burlen {UD }.the parts are not dear.It may well be worth buying an overhaul kit too .Keep the old bits if the  float is not pierced then gentle work with a long strong tube may straighten it back to servicibility.I use a piece of old radio aerial .Needles are gettable though.Study the parts diagrams on the Burlen site.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. 93 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247 an electric scooter of Famous make.

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Piquet
West Norfolk
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June 30, 2019 - 1:09 pm
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You seem to have more than one problem.

The 'sheath' (tickler sliding bush) is normally fixed in the float chamber top but you may get away with leaving it loose.

The tickler is bent, it will stick if left like that and the bush is fixed, there should also be a spring on it to hold it up when not depressed along with a split pin to keep it all together.

The float needle is bent.

The float is battered, not normally a problem unless it has been punctured (test in a bowl of hot water for bubbles). This is usually caused by a build up of sediment in the guide hole at the bottom of the float chamber not allowing the float to move properly.

Have a look at Phil's Topic here ** Please log in to view **

The parts list for your carburettor is here ** Please log in to view **

as you can see, not all parts are available from Burlen/Amal, but floats (with needle) are available from ** Please log in to view **.

The float chamber top does not normally have a gasket.

I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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cocorico
Central France
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June 30, 2019 - 2:14 pm
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As above, plus IMO the tickler is too long (on all of them) - you only need to depress the float enough to allow a little extra fuel to enter the chamber ( a short push and hold should be enough). I have shortened the tickler accordingly on my D3. Also, if by 'sheath' you mean the brass seat for the float needle, I have used a little metal epoxy to fix mine - I don't think they were expected to last 60+ years.

1956 D3 in the back of the barn with 6 other bikes ahead of it!

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Concretecow
Milton Keynes
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June 30, 2019 - 4:08 pm
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I have also had the same problem.  My tickler also looks bent like that (this just sounds wrong, but I'll continue).  I think Cocorico is correct, and that they are slightly too long, so I had presumed they have had a curve put in to address the issue. The tickler on the Amal/Burlen site does look straight though.  Unfortunately, as others have pointed out, there are limited spares available for the 361, and the floats are only available from e-bay Vintage Carb Floats (Polish I believe they are).  Your main problem is the bent pin on the float.  Correct that, and who cares if the tickler bends to the left.  As long as the spring is there to keep it up (this sounds worse and worse - like it was scripted by Frankie Howard and Kenneth Williams).

If you can straighten it, all well and good, but to get it completely straight will be pretty difficult.  On mine, once I had eliminated the tickler spring, a leaky float, and all of the other possibles, I took the float lid, sealed it with the float pin and blew down it.  There was still a very slight hiss, so I er, lapped it in with some Solvol Autosol.  Don't tell anyone, you're not supposed to do this.  But it worked for me.

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johnsullivan
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June 30, 2019 - 8:45 pm
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Autosol? You sybarite.. I use toothpaste.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. 93 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247 an electric scooter of Famous make.

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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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June 30, 2019 - 9:07 pm
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🤣😂

(had to look sybarite up though)

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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Concretecow
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July 1, 2019 - 8:21 pm
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johnsullivan said
Autosol? You sybarite.. I use toothpaste.  

rofl I don't keep toothpaste in my garage, so I had to make do.......

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