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Fitting the exhaust
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Bobbie
Leominster
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June 19, 2019 - 5:47 pm
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Hi. I have just taken my exhaust of my D3. I did this as oil was spitting from the joint when running. I've ordered a new brass washer/seal. But looking at the angle of the exhaust pipe end in relation to the face of the manifold, I would say there is about a 10 degree difference. Does anyone think this will be pulled together when resembled and locked up with the manifold nut? or are there some suggestions I could use please. I think the picture is a better description of my point... it is with the exhaust in correct position elsewhere.

Thank you

Screen-Shot-2019-06-19-at-17.41.54.png

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sunny
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June 19, 2019 - 6:12 pm
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thats   no  good    bobbie    the  2  faces   have  to   be   together   all  the  way   round  &  with  the  copper ring  gasket      ,, looks  like   its  the  rong  pipe   or  some   els  rong

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Bobbie
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June 19, 2019 - 6:14 pm
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Ok Thanks for that... a pity as it was all going so well.

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swalsh58
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June 19, 2019 - 6:19 pm
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Fit it the other way round - fit the exhaust pipe to the barrel first, then fit the silencer to the pipe, then the silencer to the bracket.  There is more room for manipulation the further away you go from the fixed point, which is of course the barrel/exhaust pipe joint

Current bikes......1958 D5, a 77 Suzuki GT250 and a 77 Honda CB125S. I have a 74 Kawasaki S3 400 and a B175 waiting for restoration. A 1980 Honda CB400N waiting for MOT.  Everyday ride is a 2011 Harley Davidson Sportster. 

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Bobbie
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June 19, 2019 - 6:47 pm
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swalsh58 said
Fit it the other way round - fit the exhaust pipe to the barrel first, then fit the silencer to the pipe, then the silencer to the bracket.  There is more room for manipulation the further away you go from the fixed point, which is of course the barrel/exhaust pipe joint  

If I make a good joint at the barrel end, the pipe is about 4" away from alignment at the mid point of the exhaust. I'm scared I might break something if I tried to bend it whilst locked on the engine... It should fit on top and inside the footrest, but the pictures show where it wants to sit.

 

Oh flipping heck, I should have just left it and tried develop a love for oily shoes.

Screen-Shot-2019-06-19-at-18.40.40.pngScreen-Shot-2019-06-19-at-18.40.28.png

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swalsh58
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June 19, 2019 - 7:09 pm
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I have a D5, and mine needed 'persuasion' to fit. I think when you get new pattern parts they are all just slightly out of true so you have to be manipulative to make it work....

Current bikes......1958 D5, a 77 Suzuki GT250 and a 77 Honda CB125S. I have a 74 Kawasaki S3 400 and a B175 waiting for restoration. A 1980 Honda CB400N waiting for MOT.  Everyday ride is a 2011 Harley Davidson Sportster. 

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Bobbie
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June 19, 2019 - 7:14 pm
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Thanks for that, I'm going to give it a go... My problem is, I should be riding it but can't stop fiddling with it and finding new things to worry aboutembarassed

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iain govan
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June 19, 2019 - 8:36 pm
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Had to cut around 3 inches off my down pipe and cut some slots in the end of the silencer so it would clamp up, plenty of paste helps

1950 D1 OSV 323 on and off the road, some of a 1959 triumph T20 on the bench

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swalsh58
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June 19, 2019 - 10:11 pm
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Bobbie said
Thanks for that, I'm going to give it a go... My problem is, I should be riding it but can't stop fiddling with it and finding new things to worry aboutembarassed  

Stop worrying about it. Just ride.....

Current bikes......1958 D5, a 77 Suzuki GT250 and a 77 Honda CB125S. I have a 74 Kawasaki S3 400 and a B175 waiting for restoration. A 1980 Honda CB400N waiting for MOT.  Everyday ride is a 2011 Harley Davidson Sportster. 

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sunny
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June 20, 2019 - 9:25 am
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if  the  eges  of  the  pipe  dont  sit   flush  the  eges   well  brack  away...  always  fit  the  copper  ring  between  the  two

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Hans Kreuzen
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June 22, 2019 - 7:03 am
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Maybe it is a down pipe for a early rigid that runs under the foot rest, I had the same problem on my 1950 Bantam, I ended up tapping the flange lip with a panel beater hammer to make it fit better to the barrel, I also fitted the pipe to a old broken D1 barrel then mounted the barrel in a vise and bend the pipe by hand to make it fit better. hope-that-helps

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Bola
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June 24, 2019 - 1:39 pm
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Did you have a new down pipe?

I had issues with my restoration, needed to bend the new down pipe to get it all to fit. Here is an over lay with original and new:

IMG_96701.JPG

If pipes are the same i hope that if they came off they will go back on! However, maybe this is why the pipes were leaking. fingers-crossed 

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Hans Kreuzen
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June 25, 2019 - 7:04 am
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Bola said
Did you have a new down pipe?

I had issues with my restoration, needed to bend the new down pipe to get it all to fit. Here is an over lay with original and new:

IMG_96701.JPG

If pipes are the same i hope that if they came off they will go back on! However, maybe this is why the pipes were leaking. fingers-crossed   

Yes Bola, I used a new aftermarket down pipe

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Bobbie
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June 25, 2019 - 10:55 am
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Actually, I found I was worrying too much. I used the general collective advice (from here) and fitted it back with a new copper ring and locked it up at the head, then 'eased' it back over the foot rest into position. I did need about an extra 1/2" spacer at the silencer end. then I ran it for a few mins to get it hot and gave the locking nut a few extra taps (with a gentle hammer turning a C spanner) for a final tighten.

Guess what? It worked, and no more spitting oil.

Thanks to all who replied. What an excellent club this is thank-you

Bobbie

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swalsh58
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June 25, 2019 - 10:59 am
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Bobbie said
Actually, I found I was worrying too much. I used the general collective advice (from here) and fitted it back with a new copper ring and locked it up at the head, then 'eased' it back over the foot rest into position. I did need about an extra 1/2" spacer at the silencer end. then I ran it for a few mins to get it hot and gave the locking nut a few extra taps (with a gentle hammer turning a C spanner) for a final tighten.

Guess what? It worked, and no more spitting oil.

Thanks to all who replied. What an excellent club this is thank-you

Bobbie  

There you go. Sometimes the simple way is the best. Now don't find any more problems.....

Current bikes......1958 D5, a 77 Suzuki GT250 and a 77 Honda CB125S. I have a 74 Kawasaki S3 400 and a B175 waiting for restoration. A 1980 Honda CB400N waiting for MOT.  Everyday ride is a 2011 Harley Davidson Sportster. 

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Bobbie
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June 27, 2019 - 11:16 am
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swalsh58 said

There you go. Sometimes the simple way is the best. Now don't find any more problems.....  

Hi Steve... I'm really excited and can't wait to get on the road. What is the average wait for a response from the DVLA?  It's only been about 10 days now, so I imagine it's too soon yet?  The suns out and the bike's in the garage!

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Bobbie
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June 27, 2019 - 1:44 pm
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Bobbie said

Hi Steve... I'm really excited and can't wait to get on the road. What is the average wait for a response from the DVLA?  It's only been about 10 days now, so I imagine it's too soon yet?  The suns out and the bike's in the garage!  

Ooo! I've just read on the DVLA that a current MOT is required. I didn't include one in my application as the club information doesn't mention it. Is this a problem do you think?

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johnsullivan
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June 27, 2019 - 4:10 pm
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No Bantam needs an MOT .You must declare this on form V112  or online when taxing the bike.You must tax it ,that there is no fee is irrelevant.If you have a reg number then so long as you are insured you may ride the bike.the police do not concern themselveswith tax only insurance.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. 93 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247 an electric scooter of Famous make.

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Bobbie
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June 27, 2019 - 4:19 pm
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johnsullivan said
No Bantam needs an MOT .You must declare this on form V112  or online when taxing the bike.You must tax it ,that there is no fee is irrelevant.If you have a reg number then so long as you are insured you may ride the bike.the police do not concern themselveswith tax only insurance.  

Thank's John...

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swalsh58
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June 27, 2019 - 4:28 pm
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johnsullivan said
No Bantam needs an MOT .You must declare this on form V112  or online when taxing the bike.You must tax it ,that there is no fee is irrelevant.If you have a reg number then so long as you are insured you may ride the bike.the police do not concern themselveswith tax only insurance.  

That isn’t strictly true. MOST Bantams don’t need an MOT, except those that have been significantly altered from original in the last 30 years. That would include fitting Honda forks, Suzuki engines etc. However, that doesn’t affect your application Bobbie. Your machine does not need an MOT, and it usually takes between three and four weeks to get a V5, providing DVLA are happy. If they want to inspect it, a little longer.

Current bikes......1958 D5, a 77 Suzuki GT250 and a 77 Honda CB125S. I have a 74 Kawasaki S3 400 and a B175 waiting for restoration. A 1980 Honda CB400N waiting for MOT.  Everyday ride is a 2011 Harley Davidson Sportster. 

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