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D7 Lighting Coils
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sunny
Norfolk
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June 19, 2019 - 11:54 am
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i   carnt  see  how  the  wiering  IS  with   the  genys  coils     ,,, you  must  have  the  h/Lamp  swithed  ON   and  tack a reading  from    both   h/lamp terminals   that  in  utherwords   UNDER   LOAD    on  A/C ,,  all  3  systems  fited   on  D7  s    from  BSA   have   A/C   at  the  H/lamp    naver  use  a  meter  in seriys   it  wil get  damaged       ,, the  next  reading  is  at  the  batery   terminals   on D/C   reving   the  motor  to  get  the  chage  readinng 

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gpo746
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June 19, 2019 - 8:49 pm
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Hi Sunny,

             Yep taken readings with my meter set to AC volts . Meter connected to red and white wire on stator. readings taken with and without headlights on . DC Readings at the battery end are 6v even when revved there is little / no change .

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sunny
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June 20, 2019 - 9:19 am
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hi   joe  so  test  on  a/c  the red  &  white  wiers   with   the  H/lamp  ON      &  see  wot you  get   ,,,,the  charge  rate  at  the  batery    is LOW  becose   both  batery  D 7s  have a  trickle     Charge   system   thay  get  to  about  6.7  volts   max   on  hight  revs    so low  infact   the cam   was changed   just  fiting  a     standard   6/18  wats   rear  lamp  will  lower  the  charge    

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gpo746
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June 24, 2019 - 3:45 pm
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Ok, just an update. I sent Rex Caunts regulator back a few days ago and thinking I will give the regulator system another go I ordered a different type. I ordered it 2 days ago and it came today. After making the leads up to fit and an earthing strap I rigged it all up and PRESTO ! AC volts showed ~7v and NO popping bulbs. voltage remained at  ~7v with lights on (load) and with lights off (no load) . Regulator is cool in operation . Both beams are nice and bright but not over the top, just right .I did notice the back light get slightly brighter when flicking the dip/main Ducon switch which is exactly what I expected . Low revs sees the light slightly flicker , again I expected that. I revved the bike up and it gets no brighter than normal .So, it looks like it WAS a duff regulator in the first place, not Rex's fault, Just got a bad one that's all. On the whole , I have found Rex's products to be excellent and service to match.

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chickensoup
Bolton, Greater Manchester
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August 31, 2019 - 7:06 pm
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A big thank you to you all,

Last evening, I was out on my 1966 D7 twin switch, and left my return home from a friends a little after dark. I have also been having problems with tail and speedo bulbs popping. I thought I had cured the problem, but no.

Half way home the speedo bulb blew, and the headlight went into floodlight mode, which told me the tail light had blown again also.

After much trawling through the pages I came across all your posts on the same subject and problem.

My initial problem was working out the wiring, as my bike has been re-wired with different coloured wiring. My stator has red, orange, brown and red with a black trace coloured wires. Once I’d established what should be the dark red wire, I followed your wiring explanation, and fitted my Rex’s voltage regulator, robbed out of my D1.

Went for a 15 mile ride out with the lights on this afternoon and Shazam !!, got functioning lights still on when I got home.

Thanks again and fingers crossed, no more bulb blowing…. Nick

1950 BSA D1 Plunger   242 UYW

1966 BSA D7  LBF 62 D

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cocorico
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August 31, 2019 - 7:41 pm
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Could you measure the output voltage for future reference, please?

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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chickensoup
Bolton, Greater Manchester
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August 31, 2019 - 8:05 pm
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Hi all,

Unfortunately I do not own a volt/ amp meter, so cannot measure the output at this time, all I can say is, it was giving enough output to fall into the same category ie ( blowing speedo and rear tail lights )

This is the one area of Bantams that is still a bit of a mystery to me " elctrickery " I still find it hard to fathom out.

Did BSA, back in the day, supply motorcycles to the general public with all of these electrical problems.

Did you get a sack full of bulbs, when you bought a BSA from the dealer, I suspect not. What has changed. I reckon the electrical system on my D7 is as good, If not better, than when it left the factory back in 1966. So what has changed..

But thanks to modern technology and a lot of help from you guys, we can get the electrics functioning something like correctly...

Nick

1950 BSA D1 Plunger   242 UYW

1966 BSA D7  LBF 62 D

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mikef
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August 31, 2019 - 10:00 pm
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Hi Chickensoup.
     Back in the day the Bantam electrics were no worse than any other I think and worked pretty well. Unfortunately after 50+ years we are now faced with corroded connectors and loose connections etc.
One major problem of bulbs blowing on the twin switched D7 or any other direct lighting model are the replica Ducon dip switches. The original parts were "make before break", replica ones are "break before make". I don't know why manufacturers of the replica switches got so wrong.
This means that as you switch from dip beam to main beam there is no connection to the headlamp momentarily. This causes the rear lamp to blow as all of the power from the generator is put into the rear lamp. Then because the rear lamp is blown excessive power is put into the headlamp and speedo lamp, causing these to blow.
I hope the last paragraph makes sense.
A direct lighting system is all about balance, the generator output has to be matched to the requirements of the lamps.
If the generator outputs more power than the bulbs require then the bulbs will blow. If the generator outputs less power than the bulbs require then the bulbs will be dim. For this reason it is very important that the correct wattage bulbs are fitted.
Those AC regulators are very good and will prevent bulb failure, as they clamp the AC voltage to a safe level for the bulbs.
Mike.

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cocorico
Central France
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September 1, 2019 - 9:15 am
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A simple multimeter, although limited is some applications, is a really good investment if you are likely to go tinkering with a Bantam's electrics. They can be got for less than a fiver on ebay.

Electrickery need not be complicated - just remember, Red to Red, Black to Black, Blue to bits! rofl

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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chickensoup
Bolton, Greater Manchester
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September 1, 2019 - 12:30 pm
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Hi Mike and Co,

Yes that last paragraph makes sense now. I suppose also it is now very hard to get the correct specified wattage bulbs too.

covered another 20 miles this morning and still all is well with my lighting circuit.

Thanks again..... Nick

1950 BSA D1 Plunger   242 UYW

1966 BSA D7  LBF 62 D

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carpetralph
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October 5, 2019 - 8:42 am
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I wonder why BSA continued with the hugely complicated wiring necessary for AC lighting on models equipped with a battery, when surely it would have been much simpler to have had the geni charging the battery and the battery supplying the lights.  Unless it was that they were trying to simplify across the range with other models, such as Pastoral etc that had no battery.  Also I suspect that the voltage control equipment at the time was a bit clunky, being all boxes containing mechanical relays etc, although these worked on other models in the range so the technology was there already as were the parts.

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cocorico
Central France
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October 5, 2019 - 12:35 pm
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BSA marketing back then - 'We've always done it like this, no need to change'.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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mike p5xbx
E-Sussex
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October 5, 2019 - 4:54 pm
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carpetralph said
I wonder why BSA continued ..............  

Thats a bit unfair to BSA
in the 50/60s most bikes and cars had a DC Dynamo and simple mechanical control box
its not that easy to control the AC output of a generator without electronics, which is why the later bikes with an Alternator used coil switching
and the Bantam was built and designed with cost very much in mind so like most other small 2stokes had simple basic lighting
even in the 80/90s Honda's small bikes had AC headlamp, a resister in line for side lights and a single diode feeding a small battery for the indicators

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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carpetralph
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October 6, 2019 - 9:15 am
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mike p5xbx said

Thats a bit unfair to BSA
in the 50/60s most bikes and cars had a DC Dynamo and simple mechanical control box
its not that easy to control the AC output of a generator without electronics, which is why the later bikes with an Alternator used coil switching
and the Bantam was built and designed with cost very much in mind so like most other small 2stokes had simple basic lighting
even in the 80/90s Honda's small bikes had AC headlamp, a resister in line for side lights and a single diode feeding a small battery for the indicators  

Ah, that explains it, it was the best technology could do at the time. Didn`t realise that Honda were using the same basic system as late as that, and they were (are) a byword of reliability. I suppose that's why so many are upgrading to 12v systems now, and probably what BSA themselves would have done eventually had they kept going.

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