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D7 Sleeve Gear
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Sponge
Lancashire (A chip shop somewhere near Preston)
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July 29, 2020 - 4:29 pm
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Well, the sleeve gear is sorted and it doesn't appear to be leaking oil from the new gaskets. I am back at home for a while so it is now time to get started on this Electrex World D7 Ignition upgrade.  Last night I tried to fit the electrex world flywheel to the L/H crankshaft. No problem but when I started to tighten up the nut it ran loose. The nut had stripped on the mainshaft.  Lucky there seems to be no damage to the mainshaft threads but I have never seen a nut strip like this before. 

I am now waiting for some new nuts to arrive in the snail-mail. Once they arrive I will crack on with the work.  Send some photographs if anybody out there is still interested in this thread ?   

Sponge   

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Sponge
Lancashire (A chip shop somewhere near Preston)
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August 6, 2020 - 1:35 pm
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BACK ON TRACK......

So, now that the sagas of sloppy sleeve gear bushes and stripped NOS crankshaft nuts are resolved I have managed to fit the Electrex World flywheel to the crankshaft. 

Having cleaned up the threads on the L/H mainshaft and bolted the flywheel up to torque  I noted that the stator plate would not seat home on the casing. I had a gap of about 25 thou to make up.  Having had this problem before I stripped it all out again and looking at the depth of the woodruff key recess in the new flywheel I noted that the woodruff key was slightly taller than the available space.   So I 'eased' the key by 15thou with a file and refitted it all to the engine.  This time - success - it all fits properly and the engine turns nicely. No scrapy noises and no friction. 

Off with the cylinder head to set the timing  ( I hate poking things down the plug hole in an off centre head - they can get stuck very easily - for the sake of a new head gasket its worth getting it right).  The timing marks are clearly marked on the electrex flywheel and stator.  De-coked the top end and replaced the cylinder head.   

So here its stands - I now have to find a place to mount the regulator and e-coil and probably (knowing my OCD for electrical perfection) I will probably end up re-wiring the whole bike - just to be sure with a nice.

I need to find a wiring grommet for that gap. Everywhere I try is sold out so I might make one ......!! 

 

20200805_133810_D7-with-CDI_system-fitted_compressed.jpgnew headlamp switch.   

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Number6
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August 6, 2020 - 10:56 pm
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Decoked the top end! laugh Do people still do that?

Think I did it once on the D3, and I know I didi it on a Honda CD175, took it just a couple of weeks to put it all back on, so I thought s0d it not doing that again laugh

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Sponge
Lancashire (A chip shop somewhere near Preston)
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August 7, 2020 - 9:18 pm
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Decoke: I thought that seeing as I was in there I might as well clean it all up nice and shiny. 

I am beginning to realise that the most challenging thing about an electronic ignition upgrade is deciding where to mount the new coil and regulator. 

Obviously the regulator needs to be someplace where it can bleed heat into the atmosphere and the coil someplace where it wont get wet. The length of the wires provided in the kit are also a limiting factor although to be honest the wires on the Electrex World unit are long enough to put these components just about anywhere you can find space.  

I dislike drilling holes in good tinware so I guess I spent a bit longer than I should have trying to get this right. I am still not sure if I did but it will have to do. This project is well behind schedule.  

Having spent several days regarding this problem with a lot of tea drinking and head scratching I decided to mount  the coil on the R/H inner side panel above, and slightly to the rear, of the battery and have mounted the regulator where the old ignition coil used to sit (when the bike was a B175) on the rear mudguard.  I hope that it will get a bit of air there. 

I have gone back to the B175 airbox arrangement, even for the monobloc it should be better.  Having reduced the gearbox sprox from 16T to 14T I have fitted a trail bronc chain tensioner.  I still need to adjust the drive chain. 

Now I have to wire it all up properly and carefully with some fuses, change the bulbs for 12V and LEDs then tidy it all up.

That's a bushman crashplate,  side stand and chain guard you can see in the picture - this bike is a real hybrid but I hope to get the B175 engine back into it someday - 

   

20200807_CDI_components_180638.jpg20200807_180613_components1.jpg

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cocorico
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August 8, 2020 - 7:46 am
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Looking very neat there. I do like Motobatt batteries, though maybe a bit over specified for kick-start bikes. I have 3 in use, one transformed the starting of a big 850 twin BMW, which requires a huge cold cranking current.

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Number6
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August 9, 2020 - 8:59 pm
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Sponge said
Decoke: I thought that seeing as I was in there I might as well clean it all up nice and shiny. 

  

I'm an idiot forgot we're talking about 2 strokes not 4 strokes

http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/homer-simpson-doh2.jpg

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Sponge
Lancashire (A chip shop somewhere near Preston)
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August 20, 2020 - 12:13 pm
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PROGRESS UPDATE:

So, as predicted the project turned into a complete re-wire and electrical systems upgarde.  Fortunately I am quite good with electrics.

The original wiring loom ( modified and installed by myself 25 years ago), was based around a D5 AC lighting loom and it was getting pretty obvious that it was not going to be up to the job with the new electronic ignition and 12 lighting option. A lot of, tea, staring and head scratching once more and no matter how I considered it the D5 loom was wrong and would need a lot of surgery to be right - far better to start over.   I would rather leave it intact and sell it on once it is released.  I have never really liked the WIPAC switch on the headlight as it doesn't fit its loom socket well and has a habit of coming disengaged, a pain at the very least.  By stepping away from standard with a different switch this can be made a lot simpler. 

I therefore decided to make a new loom for the 12V system and based it around a Lucas PS41 switch from the BSA A10, which I think is a super switch and very easy to wire, troubleshoot and maintain.  

So I have re-wired the whole bike using new wires, 12v LED bulbs, connectors, fuses and sleeving with some deep thought going into cable routing and frame earthing.  It would seem crazy to have a new ignition system and an old, not fit for purpose, wiring loom.   

When fitting an electronic ignition system the earthing is important.  In my experience the main reason why it doesn't work or becomes unreliable or quirky. 

Photographs to follow.  

Lessons learned :  When considering a Electronic Ignition and a 12V conversion - factor in the need for a wiring upgrade or complete replacement. 

Now taking early dibs on the D5 loom - its in good nick .......

 

 

    

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Number6
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August 21, 2020 - 7:08 pm
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popcorn

.

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Sponge
Lancashire (A chip shop somewhere near Preston)
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September 2, 2020 - 2:33 pm
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UPDATE:

It runs.  Started up 3 rd kick and runs very well.  Noticably better pick up and more ven tick over.  Had to reset the carburettor pilot and tick over screws etc.   All the lights work and it charges.  The price of this upgrade ( to get rid of the Atom unit)  has been quite high: 

Electrex world CDI unit and ancils

12V upgrade

New sleeve gear bushes, gaskets, oil seal, broken reamer   

Stripped crank nut

New motobatt 12v battery, lucas battery box

New LED 12V light bulbs

Wires, lucas lighting switch, connectors, sleeving and shrink wrap

Oils and lubes etc

100 + hours work  ( what a sick person I am ?)      

What started out as a small pleasant task has turned into 2 months of wires, solder and head scratching etc. Its raining now so I will not get to road test it.  I hope its worth it when I eventually do get to ride it on the road.

20200828_D7-electricals.jpg20200828_D7_completed.jpg

The cardboard box is to catch small bits, washers etc that fall off and prevent them from rolling all over the workshop floor.  My hands are not what they used to be. 

Questions to me, happily. 

 

Sponge  

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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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September 2, 2020 - 5:13 pm
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Hi Sponge,

its amazing how it all adds up! Still that bike looks great, I’m going to look out for a D7 tank with badges!

A couple of questions:

with the Monobloc and the D14 air filter do you have a choke? And ....

what is stopping it from falling over?!

Regards

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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Sponge
Lancashire (A chip shop somewhere near Preston)
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September 4, 2020 - 10:07 am
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Hi Stu, 

Yes I had to add a choke mechanism etc to the monobloc in order to compensate for the loss of the shutter type air filter.  The bike appears to be breathing a lot better but it is now running weak accross the whole rev range and getting a bit hotter than it normally does.  Especially at tickover etc and with the pilot screw turned right in it is just about OK at tickover - but I know it could be better. On the road it has a flat spot at the bottom of the carburetor / rev range.  Removing the choke slide and putting the shutter filter back on it runs fine.  I do, however, like the airbox arrangement so I am going to up the pilot jet to .30 to see what happens. If that works I will lift the needle a notch and up the main jet by 10%.  I checked the cutaway and it remains at 3 1/2.     

Well spotted, yes.... the O/S footrest is resting on a Halfords axle stand. I find I can adjust the angle and attitude of the bike when I want to work on it. 

More to come as I start to beat the gremlins out of this little bike....

Sponge 

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Sponge
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September 6, 2020 - 11:42 am
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I have now swapped out the .25 pilot jet for a .30 and what a difference it makes !! I can now set up the slow running properly. The bike was still a bit reluctant to pick up from low to mid throttle so I have upped the main jet to 150 and lowered the needle by a groove. Now it all runs really nice, picks up well, pulls nicely and purrs along, running nice and cool as well with a good plug colour but still seems a little slow to accelerate - this might be because we have lost the WIPAC flywheel and gained the electrex world unit - or it might be me, having not ridden it for so long. My D1 does seem a bit more lively than the D7.   All the gears select up and down the range and the sleeve gear seems nicely seated now, no oil leaks.  I will leave it to run in a little before I investigate further. 

I have re-fitted the shutter air filter until I can get a B44 Victor triangular K&N filter for the airbox.   

Here is a picture of the finished item.   By way of description this bike has had a bot of development over the 25 +years it has been in my posession :20200903_D7_Bantam_trailbike.jpgB175 chassis, triumph fork gaiters, electrex world electronic ignition and full re-wire with A10 switch, new indian RE speedo (works really well ), D7 tank, motobatt battery in a nice soft lucas rubber battery box,  D10 bushman high level exhaust pipe with D7 silencer, bushman headlight unit, bashplate, side stand and panel fastenings, trail bronc chain tensioner, alloy mudguards, honda rear light unit, Sammy Millar fork brace and Michelin AP cross tyres at 3.50 x 18 WM2 at rear and 18 x 3.00 WM1 at front. Single seat and leather BSA toolbag.  14/58 final gearing.   Future plans - folding footrests from a trail bronc and enter the Beamish trial in 2021. 

Many thanks - Sponge 

 

 

As previously stated - its actually one of the last B175 models out of the factory before they closed the Bantam production line down and smashed the jigs.  My intent is to replace the D7 unit with the B175 engine once I have finished building it.  I have three B175 engine builds on the to-do list at present as well as a few other tasks.  All the standard original B175 parts (red) are still boxed up so when I decide to sell it on a future owner can put it all back to standard B175 with no problems. 

I will start a new thread for the B175 engine replacement. This thread has done its duty and must now be condemned to the archive as I move on.   

  

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