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D1 Lucas headlight Bracket?
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TallGuy
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January 5, 2020 - 6:44 pm
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Hi Mike,

There isn't that much room to drill another hole in the bracket, probably get just a bit more than an extra half a hole, any more and there wouldn't be much meat towards the top of the bracket.. but yes, that would help.. problem is, I'd like the whole headlamp to be further forward too.. the diagram above shows the full side profile of the head lamp beyond the forks, the rear of my headlamp sits between the forks.  I guess some creative bodging is going to be in order, or I'll have to use Nick's measurements and make my own. 

Thanks for your thoughts 🙂

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TallGuy
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January 5, 2020 - 6:57 pm
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Aha Aquarius,

I think you have hit the nail on the head.. there was a special Lucas headlamp bracket, I had been unable to find any information on one, but you have..

Now I know I haven't made a mistake with the headlamp I can get on with either modifying or making another one..   making a new one won't be that easy with what equipment I have available, but I think I could manage it if I have too.. I could perhaps cut and put a couple of pieces in my original bracket to extend it, I have an old cheap stick welder..

More thinking needed, but I believe you have answered my question.

Thank you 🙂

 

... and thanks to everyone else for their feedback 🙂

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TallGuy
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January 6, 2020 - 8:33 pm
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Hello again,

just an update regarding my headlamp bracket...  purists look away..

For now I decided to make an extension bracket to go between the headstock and the headlamp bracket. I used a bit of 60 mm x 30 mm thin wall box section.. even though I worked using metric for many years, I still think in imperial.. I've put metric measurements up for you youngsters 🙂 Doing this means I haven't harmed a Bantam in anyway..

The fact that the bracket seems to work means the original Lucas bracket must be about 30 mm longer than the Wipac one..

If you check out the photo's, the bracket is hardly noticeable, hopefully fingers-crossedExtension-Bracket.-1.jpgNew-headlamp-position.-1.jpg

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TallGuy
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January 6, 2020 - 8:37 pm
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PS. the switch is a cheap e-bay one, in my opinion it's rubbish ( hard to turn between positions ) and won't end up on this bike 🙂

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Stoo63
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January 6, 2020 - 10:43 pm
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Good work, Alan. Does the job nicely.The "real" thing will crop up one of these days but for now you've got a very smart solution. 🙂

'52 D1 direct lighting plunger, '58 Square Four (project), '59 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '59 Tiger Cub, '60 5TA,  '76 FS1-E

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TallGuy
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January 8, 2020 - 1:39 pm
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Stoo63 said
Good work, Alan. Does the job nicely.The "real" thing will crop up one of these days but for now you've got a very smart solution. 🙂  

Cheers Stewart, at least I now have a headlamp attached to the bike, just need a toolbox, battery carrier, rear mudguard and number plate.. lol.    🙂

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Stoo63
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January 8, 2020 - 1:43 pm
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The little poster included with this month's edition of the Banter actually has a profile pic of a Lucas bantam, but, alas, not close up ! Those other parst all come up but at a premium, of course 🙁 I find that you come across them when you're looking for something utterly unrelated!

'52 D1 direct lighting plunger, '58 Square Four (project), '59 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '59 Tiger Cub, '60 5TA,  '76 FS1-E

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NeilB
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January 8, 2020 - 3:54 pm
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Looks good, but as a daft suggestion might it be better to have the bracket as a "n" rather than a "u" to avoid trapping water and dirt and potentially accelerating rust? 🤔 

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TallGuy
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January 8, 2020 - 10:13 pm
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Hi Neil,

thanks. I did think about doing it n shaped but thought that it might flex inwards more than it would flex outward in the u shape.. might sound illogical, but that’s how my brain works at times.

Since fitting it I have thought about putting a simple brace across the u shape to stop any flexing at all.

Also, later after making it I thought about the water trap, thought I could put a couple of decent size holes in the bottom of the u shape.. Make it lighter so the bike will go faster. 🤣

I guess by the time it rusts away I will have found a proper bracket.fingers-crossed

Ps. It also makes it a lot easier to fasten the nuts and bolts from the top..

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FrankG
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January 8, 2020 - 11:27 pm
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You could weld 1 or 2 small strips across the open ends of the channel to stop it flexing too much. just another thought you could drill a small drain in the centre of  hole in the back bottom corner to let water out.

Frank

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Stoo63
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January 8, 2020 - 11:44 pm
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As you say, Alan, hopefully you can find another one before you have to fabricate a new one in 20 years - I'm presuming that you're not going to be leaving it out in the rain all the time and those drain holes that you might get round to drilling will definitely give you an extra 5mph! laughlaugh

'52 D1 direct lighting plunger, '58 Square Four (project), '59 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '59 Tiger Cub, '60 5TA,  '76 FS1-E

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TallGuy
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January 9, 2020 - 1:13 pm
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FrankG said
You could weld 1 or 2 small strips across the open ends of the channel to stop it flexing too much. just another thought you could drill a small drain in the centre of  hole in the back bottom corner to let water out.

Frank  

Hi Frank,

that’s a strong idea but I liked the idea of the bracket being hardly noticeable from the side.. It’ll look even better if I can find the right bracket . 🙂

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TallGuy
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January 9, 2020 - 1:17 pm
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Stoo63 said
As you say, Alan, hopefully you can find another one before you have to fabricate a new one in 20 years - I'm presuming that you're not going to be leaving it out in the rain all the time and those drain holes that you might get round to drilling will definitely give you an extra 5mph! laughlaugh  

At the rate I’m gathering bits, it might be sheltering in the garage for quite a while.. never intended to go original with the bike, but you know what it’s like, you just get carried away ... 🙂

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Stoo63
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January 9, 2020 - 1:30 pm
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Yes, before you know it you can't sleep at night unless you get that original NOS brake rod split pin........laughlaugh

'52 D1 direct lighting plunger, '58 Square Four (project), '59 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '59 Tiger Cub, '60 5TA,  '76 FS1-E

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TallGuy
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January 18, 2020 - 10:31 am
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Hi back again,

two quick questions..

The panel on the headlamp, what did you use to secure it.. self tappers?

Also, where can you get the rubber seal that goes between the panel and headlamp.. or what alternatives have you used..

Thanks in advance 🙂

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sunny
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January 18, 2020 - 11:47 am
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some   lucas   h/L shells  have   taped  holes     proly   B A       ,,try   a  cheep  £1 DOG  BOLE    thay  have  a  ruber  rim  that  fit  nicly

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TallGuy
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January 18, 2020 - 12:41 pm
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sunny said
some   lucas   h/L shells  have   taped  holes     proly   B A       ,,try   a  cheep  £1 DOG  BOLE    thay  have  a  ruber  rim  that  fit  nicly  

Thanks sunny, the holes drilled in the headlamp shell are small, about a sixteenth, no thread.. at the moment I am using self tapping screws but they aren’t the best look and I’m not convinced that they won’t vibrate loose..

interesting idea about the dog bowl, I’ll have to keep my open.. Cheers 🙂

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TallGuy
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January 18, 2020 - 12:54 pm
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I’ll just clarify, it’s the switch panel that I want to fasten onto the headlamp, fasteners and rubber seal 🙂

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chickensoup
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January 18, 2020 - 1:21 pm
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Hi Alan,

Nice work on your head light bracket modification by the way. Photo's of what I believe to be the original screws that hold the switch plate in position to the head light bowl. They are like an early type of self tapper and made from mild steel. They were a devil to remove when I carried out my restorations. The screw heads looked unmolested so I believe they are as fitted at the BSA factory. There was also no rubber seal between the switch plate and bowl. Also included is a photo of my headlight pre-restoration. Hope this helps..... Nick20200118_125620.jpg20200118_125705.jpgPC130021.JPG

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1950 BSA D1 Plunger   242 UYW

1966 BSA D7  LBF 62 D

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TallGuy
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January 18, 2020 - 3:20 pm
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C80CE3CA-4B13-4514-9794-83DB05E1D115.pngchickensoup said
Hi Alan,

Nice work on your head light bracket modification by the way. Photo's of what I believe to be the original screws that hold the switch plate in position to the head light bowl. They are like an early type of self tapper and made from mild steel. They were a devil to remove when I carried out my restorations. The screw heads looked unmolested so I believe they are as fitted at the BSA factory. There was also no rubber seal between the switch plate and bowl. Also included is a photo of my headlight pre-restoration. Hope this helps..... Nick20200118_125620.jpg20200118_125705.jpgPC130021.JPG  

Cheers Nick,

what a difference a bit of hard work and a coat of paint makes.. Thanks for taking the time to do the photo’s and posting them 🙂

I’m still certain there was beading, I saw it labelled and it had a part number on a Lucas diagram. Of course I can’t find it right now.. to me a rubber bead is needed to stop water getting into the headlamp shell.

Below is a diagram I did find, doesn’t point the beading out but does mention it in the print.. Number 29, beading for instrument panel 🙂

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