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Bantam d1 electrical advise
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sunny
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May 20, 2020 - 5:55 pm
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hi Kyle   the  thin is     if   your  geny   is from   D 1.3&5   it  needs   3  wiers    thay  fix to  term post 1 & 4  to feed the  lit switch  The 3rd wier  is  for post  3    to  the  rectyfyer    if  your   not      then  a link   wier  is  fited      between   post  3 &  earth post  2  for NON  batery  system   so to  run  a batery     you  will need to   identyfy   wich  of   the 4  wiers   you need to   also  go to  post 3  not  post  2     it depens wich  set  will have  enuf   power to use the  4th wier   that  is  if you know  wich is  wich  to start with   thats  wy  im asking  for a dyagram  of  the coil set   

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Unitminor
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May 20, 2020 - 7:02 pm
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There is no reason why you can not make your own harnes I make mine . It is important that you know which generator  you have that will depend on how you wire it . 

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Unitminor
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May 20, 2020 - 7:08 pm
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As Sunny is saying you need to sort out the generator first only then can you make or buy a harness 

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Kyle17645
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May 20, 2020 - 7:17 pm
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Hi all 

back to my first problem I’ve now fitted a new coil and have tried that with a new HT lead and a new plug (4th one , no resistor fitted)  still only sparking at the HT lead and not through the plug ! My points screw is earthed along with the coil to the stator , is there any where else I should be earthing? 

Then back on to my second problem 

I understand that the stator isn’t correct and has been modified to fit the D1 engine , I havnt a wiring diagram or any diagram for the coil set and am trying to work out what coils I could use of the 3 to be able to fit a battery recharge if any, 

what can I do to make this easier for you to identify these in order to be able to tell me what wiring diagram I could use and then I can go from there 
thanks again 

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cocorico
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May 20, 2020 - 8:52 pm
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First problem - if you have a spark at the end of the HT cable, almost ANY spark olug should spark outside the cylinder. Strip back some of the cable inner, unscrew the M4 nut from the plug top and twist the bare copper round it using the nut to hold it. I use NGK B6HS plugs. If you have a spark at the copper end, you will at the plug (you are holding the body of the plug to the metal of the cylinder, aren't you?).

Second problem - if you have disconnected the stator coils and have no loom anyway, convert to 12V. Reconnect the stator coils in series (ie all windings running the same way, so they add up), you should be left with 2 ends, connect one to earth and the other to a 12V rec/reg. You can then run 12V lights and recharge a small 12V battery, using a minimum number of wires.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine now running.

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Kyle17645
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May 20, 2020 - 9:32 pm
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Hi thanks for getting back everyone the newest spark plug I’ve tried is a champion L82C 

still the same just sparking at lead , I’ve tried wrapping the lead round the thread with the cap screwed down , nothing , I’ve capes the barrel to a vice just to make sure of a good earth still nothing , and yes plug against barrel thumbs-up

thanks for the suggestion I’ll look into it and see what comes up before any more questions on that one ! 
thanks everyone 

thank-you

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cocorico
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May 21, 2020 - 7:54 am
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If you have a good strong spark at the cable end (how far does it jump?), but nothing from half a dozen plugs it sounds like operator error to me, I'm afraid. The odds of all the plugs being faulty is just too great.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine now running.

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sunny
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May 21, 2020 - 11:35 am
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hi  Kyle    coz the  D 7  single  sw    spec no is  1552          on your geny     term/post    3   white  wier   &  4   orange  wier    are  the  wiers   that  go to  the rectyfyer  wich  is  wot  the  wiering  was in your  first  post        ,.., the  red wier    t/post 1  is the A/C  feed  for the H/lamp   .,.,   T/Post  2 is the   earth  post  for  the  H/lamp    coils    on  the  1552   geny  if  thats  wot  the coil set  you have  is  ,. 

so  i serjast  you     repair  the  inserlation  covering   you have cercled in you photo     refit the coil set  as in  frist  post   then  only  wier    the  charging  coil.,hoping   thats  wot  it is  with  the    whit & orange  wiers    geting  &  checking  the charing   serkit  first   befor  refiting the  H/lamp  serkit  

the  D7 s  single  switch   1552  is  NOT  in your  bantam  book  so  you  can  refer  to   the  dyagram  you  have   to  help  .,

for the  H T spark  clean  &  reset  plug &  points    may  help   or    if you  are a club  member   get  to  your   rep  for   help

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mikef
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May 21, 2020 - 2:48 pm
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Well, I expect you know this already but I have to suggest it just in case you don't.
You have to have the threaded end on the spark plug resting on the cylinder head when you check for a spark at the plug. It needs an earth return.

Just thought I'd mention it.
          Mike.

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Number6
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May 21, 2020 - 5:15 pm
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Deffo something weird going on http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/ohmy.gif

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Kyle17645
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May 21, 2020 - 7:20 pm
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Hello all thanks for getting back 

problem 1 - no spark - yes the plug is against the barrel still nothing , I have just put a bolt in the HT lead cap and tried that and it sparked straight up and arcs to the barrel, so not sure on this one will carry on trying numerous things and see if I get anywhere 

 

problem 2 -stator- thanks sunny Yes the coil set is a 1552 , that clears my question up , I’ll rewire it to original and go from there 

thanks 

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Kyle17645
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May 29, 2020 - 5:29 pm
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Hi everyone , 

quick update , thought I might have solved it but no ..... changed the stator bush for new as was very worn and noticed “the coil fingers/brackets?” Were rubbing on the inside of the magneto , with new bush fitted air gap looks about right (can get a piece of paper between all of them) 

still no spark through plug just at the end of HT lead 

I’ve separated the barrel with HT paint - has anyone had any problems with this inhibiting the Spark ? 
thanks again ! 

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mikef
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May 29, 2020 - 6:01 pm
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Well this an odd problem. A spark will jump from HT lead to barrel but won't spark with a spark plug.
Strangely enough I have just spoken to a member today that had intermittent spark issues with a Bantam magneto.
I managed to get it to spark by closing the points gap down to 6 thou. This was a problem known to BSA years ago.
Then it failed to spark again a few weeks later. He fortunately had another rotor that I suggested he tried.
This then produced a spark at the correct points gap of 15 thou.
So, just "thinking out of the box", I would suggest try reducing the points gap to see if that makes any difference.
That's not really a cure but will give an idea of where the problem lies.
Another suggestion would be to consider one of the CDI systems available for the Bantams. Although they are expensive, it would solve the generator and magneto issues that you have.
Mike.

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Kyle17645
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May 29, 2020 - 9:10 pm
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Thanks for that Mike I did try it and no luck although after trawling through more forums I came across somthing similar to what I’m having , 

correct me if I’m wrong - I thought you’d set the points when the engines not running and the timing when the engine is running (so never really thought of altering the stator position on the three screws) ? 

ive just had a play with the timing and points and have finally managed to get a spark out of the plug , so will have another look tomrorow at the proper way to time it and see if that makes a difference , fingers crossed 

thanks for the help 

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Unitminor
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May 31, 2020 - 10:17 am
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Altering the timing should not stop it sparking it would stop it running correctly. But if you have now got a spark after playing with the points and timing I would suspect you have a problem with the points . Brian

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sunny
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May 31, 2020 - 12:08 pm
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hi  Kyle  start   againe ,.,.   PROPLY  CLEANE   &  RESET  POINTS     15  thow        &  PLUG      at  18  thow  ONLY       [  lees   than 20 thow  ]  REFER  TO  PAGES  46  TO 57   IN  YOUR  BOOK  get  a new   condecer  [ dont  let  it   tuch   the points spring   after  fiting       baceic   timeing  is  set   in  constution   of  the  crankshaft    it  is  about  rite   from  then  on  &  as youv cheked it   anyway     its  not  the  problam 

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Kyle17645
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May 31, 2020 - 12:09 pm
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Finally had it running yesterday, next thing I need to look into is setting the idle speed and Get it running correctly ,

When I say messed with points I just set them at 6 tho and then back to .15 tho so not sure how that would make a difference , but then also can’t see how moving the stator round made a difference , but it’s running ! 
 
thanks for all the help ! 

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Kyle17645
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May 31, 2020 - 12:12 pm
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Hi thanks for that sunny , can you just explain the bit where you mentioned not letting the condenser touch the points spring ? Why’s this ? 
thanks 

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sunny
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May 31, 2020 - 12:18 pm
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if  the  condecer   tuches  the points spring  it  conplets the  serket  to  earth   ,. you  wont  the  points  to do  that  not  the  condecer  caseing  

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Kyle17645
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May 31, 2020 - 12:24 pm
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B065DF66-A6DB-46C6-98C8-B8A96BAC384B.jpegthe points just miss the condenser so I suspect this is ok? 

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