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Number6
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March 12, 2021 - 3:54 pm
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tridentperu said
Hi,

Very interesting thread

http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/plus-one.gif

-

How I understand it, all 3 coils are joined at one end, this is the 'common' for all 3 and is the white wire going out to rectifier.

The 2 'side' coils are the lighting coils, these are joined in parallel i.e. their two free ends are also joined together. This is the dark red wire going out.

The lower or middle coil (at '6 O'clock') is the charging coil, has one free end only, this is the green wire going out (to rectifier).

Dark red goes to lighting switch which connects it to a green going back to rectifier so that all 3 coils are connected to rectifier, when the lighting switch is turned to headlight position.

This is how I'm arranging mine and is based on photos and diagrams I have seen.

I bought a new 3-coil set from Villiers-spares, because, why not? Modern new materials and not expensive. http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/4chsmu1.gif

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Jim
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March 12, 2021 - 7:44 pm
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That's how I understood it too!

The brown wire doesn't seem to fall naturally to post 3... Also, I have never seen any pics of this particular set up showing 3 wires (in total) on post 3. Conversely, I have never seen one with a wire connected to post 2 .

Hence my confusion as to where the extra (brown) wire goes. I wondered if normally it was connected to earth underneath the stator plate, which is why it never makes an appearance at either post 2 or 3..

What I'll do, when I get the bike running, is disconnect it and use a jumper to the two posts in turn and see where it charges best ..If at all...

Thanks for all your suggestions, it really can't be that difficult in the end as I have 3 out of the 4 worked out!

J

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Number6
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March 14, 2021 - 5:36 pm
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You wouldn't have 3 wires on post 3. The 3 wires are soldered together near the coils, so only one lead actually comes out to post 3.

Here, all 3 'common' soldered together (is the new villiers-spares coil set) -

IMG_3160.jpg

(Note the two lighting coils' leads are separate in this picture, but should be similarly joined.) If it won't reach, you'll have to add an extension?

For battery lighting where a rectifier is also present, post 2 is not used. (On mine it's completely missing!)

Post 1 is dark red wire, lighting coils' output only. (Two leads soldered together, again near the coils, so may look like only one wire actually coming out.)

Post 4 is green wire, charging coil output only. (This is genuinely one single wire from one coil.)

Hope that makes sense!

I wouldn't try connecting things together different ways to see what works best, that's how things can get damaged! freaked-out_gif

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Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Number6
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March 14, 2021 - 5:41 pm
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I should have added, again where a rectifier is involved, at no point should any of the coils be connected to earth for any reason - this may be why my earth post is missing, to prevent some absent-minded idiot connecting to the wrong one ... it'll work for me whistle

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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stubaker58
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March 16, 2021 - 3:11 pm
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I’ve been trawling through the archive and this seems to be as good a place as any to ask what is probably a silly question, my grasp of electrics is tenuous and I don’t want to end up doing something stupid!

I’m building up a D7 engine, I want to use the magneto type ignition coil and to have direct lighting. I have all the parts (albeit untested and old) to put together a stator with two lighting coils and an ignition coil. I have no wiring at all. So ....

If I wire the two lighting coils together and fit a rectifier/regulator (prob 12v) with a simplified wiring loom (like Lone Wolfs in the tech archive) will it work? And is there likely to be enough power to light a brake light when stationary e.g. at a junction?

Thanks.

“There’s nothing new under the sun”.

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cocorico
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March 16, 2021 - 3:45 pm
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You could use AC direct lighting, preferably with an AC regulator - the lights would vary with revs - then a small gel battery would supply your brakes. In fact a gel battery used with LED lights would do away with any need for stator coils and other electronics, just a single switch for front and rear lights. Then recharge after each outing.hope-that-helps

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Number6
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March 17, 2021 - 9:59 pm
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That was my plan 'A'. As was suggested by the postman. But I've progressed to plan 'B', at least have it go through the motions of charging. Cos we can. http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/biggrin.gif

If I wire the two lighting coils together and fit a rectifier/regulator (prob 12v) with a simplified wiring loom (like Lone Wolfs in the tech archive) will it work? And is there likely to be enough power to light a brake light when stationary e.g. at a junction?

I think so yes.

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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stubaker58
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March 18, 2021 - 12:50 pm
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Thanks guys,

I’ve cleaned up the various parts of the generator, some extra tape needed on the coils before I put it all together.

thanks again.

“There’s nothing new under the sun”.

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Jim
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March 20, 2021 - 12:56 pm
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Th

Number6 said
You wouldn't have 3 wires on post 3. The 3 wires are soldered together near the coils, so only one lead actually comes out to post 3.

Here, all 3 'common' soldered together (is the new villiers-spares coil set) -

IMG_3160.jpg

(Note the two lighting coils' leads are separate in this picture, but should be similarly joined.) If it won't reach, you'll have to add an extension?

For battery lighting where a rectifier is also present, post 2 is not used. (On mine it's completely missing!)

Post 1 is dark red wire, lighting coils' output only. (Two leads soldered together, again near the coils, so may look like only one wire actually coming out.)

Post 4 is green wire, charging coil output only. (This is genuinely one single wire from one coil.)

Hope that makes sense!

I wouldn't try connecting things together different ways to see what works best, that's how things can get damaged! freaked-out_gif  

Thank you - that is exactly what I was after - looks like my common (white) are not all joined near the coils as they should be so hence I have an extra wire - this one will now go to post 3 as you suggest. The other two are ok - the red is actually two from the outer coils joined together and the green is from the smaller charging coil

Onwards.....Jim

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Number6
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March 20, 2021 - 10:40 pm
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OK then! thumbs-up

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Jim
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March 26, 2021 - 4:01 pm
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Quick update

All D5 lights and electrics now wired up, and all working fine, thanks to the help received and searches through previous posts it has worked out fine. The 'extra' white wire that I had I did put to post 3. 

Miraculously it even appears to be charging! Now showing about 7.2v with lights off and 6.5 with main beam on. And I haven't blown any bulbs yet either....

Result

Jim

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Number6
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March 26, 2021 - 7:42 pm
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Excellent! clap

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Stoo63
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March 26, 2021 - 9:32 pm
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Well that's a result then, Jim 👍

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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