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Alternator not working
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David Simpson
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February 19, 2018 - 10:08 pm
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I would like to know where I can obtain a 1704 alternator or lighting coils to achieve this. Or the best way of rectifying my charging /lighting problems. Many thanks Dave.

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sunny
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February 20, 2018 - 8:52 am
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  the   1704   widings   are   no  problam   have  you  you  fited  all  new  electrical  parts   to  the  sysetm     or  dont  you  have  a  1704  unit  as  older   units  can be  up dated  to 1704   spec

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David Simpson
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February 20, 2018 - 8:52 pm
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sunny said
  the   1704   widings   are   no  problam   have  you  you  fited  all  new  electrical  parts   to  the  sysetm     or  dont  you  have  a  1704  unit  as  older   units  can be  up dated  to 1704   spec  

Hi sunny, Thanks for Your reply but I would like to know where I can obtain the stator/coils etc. To make it to 1704 spec. My unit is a 55 Series with spec 450 and any advice you may have experienced. Many thanks Dave.

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sunny
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February 21, 2018 - 1:14 pm
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hi David     the  1450   spec  was  D 3& 5    like  D7s  1552   has  the   H T coil inside the  rotor     but  none   for  3  system  fited  to D 7s let  the  headlamp work   unles   the  motor   was  runing       ,    the  H T coil  has  to  be removed  & replased  with  a charing  coil  that   will  giv enuf  power for  a  6/ 18  watts    stop & tail  lamp

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David Simpson
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February 22, 2018 - 10:04 pm
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I have been onto villiers.com to ask them for coils required for 1704 but they don’t seem to know what this specification this means. They have said they can supply new standard lighting coils and standard charging coils but if anyone can help with part numbers for what I need to do the job. Many thanks Dave.

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sunny
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February 24, 2018 - 8:14 am
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o k dave    the  set  of  2  coils  are for  no  batery   or  regulator   modles    &  the  set  of  3  look  like  D3 batery  modles   and  not  D 7    so  they  are  wot  you  have  already     

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The Artful Bodger
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March 1, 2018 - 9:40 am
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A common fault with these is the coil at 6 o'clock. This has a brass strap which is riveted to the stator and bent over the coil to hold it in place, same as the ignition coil. I've now come across 4 of these with problems.

  The rivet wears through the coil insulation and shorts the coil to earth, this is easily checked by disconnecting the charging coil wires and doing a continuity check from them to earth. If you have continuity then 99.9% of the time it's the lower coil, although I have seen a "nipped" wire between the coils once.

  I have repaired this each time by slipping the coil off and grinding the head off the rivet and removing the brass strip. Then replacing the coil and slipping an insulating strip between where the rivet head was and the coil. I have a roll of the glue on edging for kitchen worktops and use this both for the insulation strip and a few more pieces to wedge the coil onto the stator. A bit of super glue run around the area helps as well.

 I've been lucky and none of the coils I've done this to have had the windings damaged and all have worked fine since. Might be worth checking this before buying new coils?

Colin

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neddyo
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March 2, 2018 - 7:13 pm
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On my early D7 I hooked up the 3 lighting coils together and ran them-through

a 12 volt regulator and retained the original stator mounted ignition coil.

I also fitted an LED head light bulb although it all worked ok with

the original type bulb. 

Nick.

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mike p5xbx
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March 2, 2018 - 11:53 pm
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neddyo said
On my early D7 I hooked up the 3 lighting coils together and ran them-through
a 12 volt regulator

how did you wire them
as two of the coils are in parallel I never really found a way of adding the third bottom coil so it was in phase with the other two, and not give a horrible AC waveform that I thought would play havoc with a transistor regulator

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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neddyo
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March 3, 2018 - 3:29 am
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I wire all 3 coils in parallel and to check the polarity i hook up a torch battery across the coils

and check the end of the stator polls on which the coils are fitted to with a compass

they should read alternatively north - south - north.

if they read north - north - south. or the reverse ot that they cancel each other out.

Nick

I have been trying some very cheap regulator - $12 - so far none have failed

And the change to 12 volts has simplified buying bulbs, the horn works but could end up with a sore throat.

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sunny
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March 3, 2018 - 3:52 pm
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Hi chaps for. More information    do a search  from the  top of the page  using . Oilite  OR. Ducon . Words 

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mike p5xbx
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March 4, 2018 - 12:46 am
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Nick
yes I used one of those cheap gy6 regulators on the bike I converted to 12v and as far as I know its still working ok
but at the time I was thinking that the rotor pole pieces were N/South magnets which really confused me as to the best way to connect the 3rd coil
which is why I tested the AC output with a cheap hand-held scope which on reflection was probably telling porky pies
as the DC output was ok.
thanks for the very nice idea about testing the coils with battery and compass thanks

Mike

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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neddyo
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March 4, 2018 - 1:48 am
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Hi Mike,

I hooked up a D7 stator to 3V DC with jumper leads and positioned a compass adjacent

to the stator poles, the middle coil connected one way then the other.

It shows N - S - N  one way then N - N - N the other.

I wired a direct lighting D1 to one of these cheap regulators (2 coils) with a 4700mf 50V capacitor

across the output, and LED head light bulb and normal stop/tail bulb.

I cant try it as the timing side mainshaft must have moved so I cant get the timing right, boo hoo.

Not looking forward to another engine strip down.

Nick.

ps The images are out of sequence, I should have numbered them. going straight down the images are the second 3

IMG_7153.JPGIMG_7154.JPGIMG_7155.JPGIMG_7156.JPGIMG_7157.JPGIMG_7158.JPG

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Jim
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March 12, 2021 - 12:46 pm
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Hi,

Very interesting thread as I am currently (sorry!) sorting out the wiring on the D5 restoration. D5 with battery.

Ignore the ignition coil - that is sorted

My only doubt is the wiring of the 3 lower coils inside the alternator - I have 3 of the wires worked out, the red green and white wires are fairly simple - my question is re the 4th wire which could be another white, which would make sense as it would be common, so would go to post 3. But, it seems to be too long for that and naturally falls near post 2 (ground).

It is the wire that I have circled in the picture attached - does this one go to post 2 or 3?

Any help gratefully received

thx,

jim

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sunny
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March 12, 2021 - 1:11 pm
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hi  Jim    sorry   i  cannot see  your  photo    .,.,  post  3 is usly     the  White  wier  post  for a  batery  sistem  

the  dyagram  is  almost   like  the  one on page 81   of the Haynes    BUT   you  mite  not  have  the  STD   D5  batery  geny    

try  to  Identify   wich   geny   you  have  please

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Jim
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March 12, 2021 - 1:40 pm
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coils-marked.jpg

 

Oops, here is the photo!

J

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Jim
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March 12, 2021 - 1:42 pm
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The layout I have is exactly like the one in the photo ( now attached!!)  I forgot to press upload.....

J

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Jim
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March 12, 2021 - 1:52 pm
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It is the same as this one  - from another post, I am talking about the brown wire that is just to the right of the white wire

I think I have answered my own question now, thanks to another of Sunny's v helpful postings - if I am right the brown wire goes to ground (post 2)

Grateful for confirmation though..wipac-2.JPG

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sunny
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March 12, 2021 - 2:29 pm
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hi  Jim       the   brown   wier  to  earth  post  2   is  I /D  for  the D 7  single  switch  geny     so  it may not  mach  the   loom  very  well  

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Jim
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March 12, 2021 - 2:34 pm
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Hi Sunny,

Thanks, I have the single switch loom/system on the D5 - the original parts all in decent shape. I'll give it a go like this and see if it works/ charges......At least it sparks so hopefully the motor will go!

Also, the wiring is as in the Wipac wiring diagram for DC wired Bantams from 1956 onwards, and it even still has the resistor wire in the loom to stop it boiling batteries...Fingers crossed

Cheers,

Jim

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