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1956 D1 Bantam engine starts but won't run
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Rhett Fisher
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December 22, 2020 - 11:11 pm
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The problem is almost sure to be the points pivot post loose in the stator casting. Try setting the points gap to 0.005 inch and see if that improves things. If not, try pushing down on the moving point using an insulated screwdriver, with the engine running and the throttle wide open. If the revs suddenly rise then then the post is loose.

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Stoo63
GLASGOW
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December 23, 2020 - 4:54 pm
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Hello Rhett and welcome to the Forum. It's a good idea to do small intro in the Introduce Yourself section, then we all know who we're talking with - just a wee bit about experience/bikes/location - it helps other members pitch their replies to any queries you may have. In the meantime, enjoy the Forum.

You will find just about everything you could ever want on the Forum via the FAQs and technical sections;  ** Please log in to view **

Have a good nose around the forum and enjoy yourself. 

Good Luck!

All the best for Xmas and the New Year,

Stewart

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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sunny
Norfolk
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December 24, 2020 - 7:30 am
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hi  Rhett    Graham   has  allready said the  crankshaft is out   of time    and seking  the  oners   responce   i think    i come across  2  loss  pins  and  had  to fix  them in diferant  ways  coze    folk  dont   like  spending    much     nice  to  see   you      grate   input    

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Sponge
Lancashire (A chip shop somewhere near Preston)
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December 29, 2020 - 6:12 pm
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Did you ever check where that keyway sits in relation to TDC ............. until that is eliminated or confirmed there seems little point in trying other courses of action on the off chance........just wondering what you found out ?

 

Sponge  

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Graham
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January 8, 2021 - 1:29 pm
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Thanks everyone for your input & I wanted to give you an update.

To be honest I was going round in circles so I took a step back over Christmas (gave me a chance to do some work on the Land Rover!) and took Sunny's advice and did my homework. The first thing I did in January was double check my findings; so armed with (newly made) piston stop and degree wheel I located true TDC and marked 27 degrees BTDC. I then checked where the stator would be located as the points begin to open (I used a multimeter for accuracy). What this did prove was that my initial findings were incorrect!! The timing wasn't as far out as first thought but is between 5 & 10 degrees out (apologies - I stupidly hadn't allowed for the full length of piston travel!!). Sponge: I also removed the rotor and checked that both keys lined up which they do. 

Anyway the good news is after following Dimitris notes (thank you) I've managed to get the bike running, however to so I've removed the points cam woodruff key and pushed the cam on (circa 5 degrees clockwise) to compensate for the error. Luckily the cam is quite a tight fit however I wouldn't want to go far on the bike with it removed.

I believe this is a known problem and I did read in the Service Sheet for the Wipac system that you could get a special cam, ground 5 degrees late, to compensate - does anyone know if such a thing is available?  

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Sponge
Lancashire (A chip shop somewhere near Preston)
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January 8, 2021 - 1:54 pm
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The

Graham said
Thanks everyone for your input & I wanted to give you an update.

To be honest I was going round in circles so I took a step back over Christmas (gave me a chance to do some work on the Land Rover!) and took Sunny's advice and did my homework. The first thing I did in January was double check my findings; so armed with (newly made) piston stop and degree wheel I located true TDC and marked 27 degrees BTDC. I then checked where the stator would be located as the points begin to open (I used a multimeter for accuracy). What this did prove was that my initial findings were incorrect!! The timing wasn't as far out as first thought but is between 5 & 10 degrees out (apologies - I stupidly hadn't allowed for the full length of piston travel!!). Sponge: I also removed the rotor and checked that both keys lined up which they do. 

Anyway the good news is after following Dimitris notes (thank you) I've managed to get the bike running, however to so I've removed the points cam woodruff key and pushed the cam on (circa 5 degrees clockwise) to compensate for the error. Luckily the cam is quite a tight fit however I wouldn't want to go far on the bike with it removed.

I believe this is a known problem and I did read in the Service Sheet for the Wipac system that you could get a special cam, ground 5 degrees late, to compensate - does anyone know if such a thing is available?    

 Reason for removing the rotor was to check the alignment of the mainshaft in relation to TDC. Both keyways are on the same shaft so they will always be in alignment. 

It is possible to put a D7 crankshaft into a layer D1 and this will also cause timing challenges. 

Well done for getting it running and keep up the perseverence. 

I doubt you will get a 5 degree late key nowadays.....the part is so small it might be impossible to even see one at an autojumble. My advice would be to file a bit off the side of a standard key ans see what happens. 

Otherwise....best of luck.

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cocorico
Central France
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January 8, 2021 - 2:16 pm
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My experience is that the cam will hold quite securely without the key. Once you are absolutely sure of the timing, a spot of loctite would perhaps give you peace of mind.

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Number6
Lincolnshire
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January 8, 2021 - 6:21 pm
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Interesting! Congratulations! laugh

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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