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1950 D1 Rigid Exhaust
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lbayorkie
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March 21, 2021 - 9:33 am
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I was looking more closely at my 1949-1950 parts manual. It says 90-3024 is the correct exhaust pipe. Looking on line, some sellers are quoting this part number for under the stand and some for over the stand. Is it credible that the same part number could be used for both?

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Stoo63
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March 21, 2021 - 9:42 am
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You would probably have to ask them what they are actually selling.

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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cocorico
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March 21, 2021 - 10:15 am
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As I said in one of your previous topics. The BSA Parts list for the D1 quotes two numbers for D1 rigid and springer models - standard and competition - 90-3024 and 90-3033.

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GlenAnderson
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March 21, 2021 - 11:28 am
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lbayorkie said
I was looking more closely at my 1949-1950 parts manual. It says 90-3024 is the correct exhaust pipe. Looking on line, some sellers are quoting this part number for under the stand and some for over the stand. Is it credible that the same part number could be used for both?  

Yes, because one part superseded the other and they’re interchangeable, as I have already tried to explain. 

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rhi010
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March 21, 2021 - 1:19 pm
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I think looking at a parts book that's 70 years old is not a reflection of what you would be buying today.

A discussion with reputable suppliers with you requirements with photos to help is the way forward.

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lbayorkie
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March 23, 2021 - 12:40 pm
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I found it (written inside the cover of my Haynes manual). Over the stand exhausts came in with frame YD24813. There a discussion going on on the Australian Facebook page in which 2 people have confirmed this and mentioned Owen Wrights book in connection with it. My bike is YD35671 and left the factory in June 1950, the engine (which isnt matched with the bike) was in frame 26599 and left on the 4th of Jan 1950, so it looks like the change took place in late 1949. This means all rigids after say December 1949 should have an over the stand exhaust. 

Thought this might be of interest.

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lbayorkie
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March 30, 2021 - 8:35 am
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OK, slight correction, one source  mentioned Owen Wright(?) and another Roger Bacon (restoration manual) However can it really be that all rigids after late 1949 left the factory with over the footrest exhausts? They made them up till 1956 I believe and its very rare to see a post 1949 bantam rigid these days with anything but an 'under' exhaust. Very strange. Any theories?

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lbayorkie
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March 30, 2021 - 8:43 am
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Hi, when my 1950 rigid frame was being straightened the silencer mounting bracket was broken off. They welded it back on but it doesnt look right. Now I'm sorting out my exhaust I need to be sure its correct.

Could I please ask someone to send me an image of the bracket on their rigid to use as a guide please?

Thanks in advance

Alan

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cocorico
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March 30, 2021 - 9:03 am
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I think there are drawings of the frames in the Members' area which should help.

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sunny
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March 30, 2021 - 9:06 am
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hi    Alan    someone will   put  up  a  pic for  to  help   but  if   thay    dont    ,. as long  as  its   tite  into the frame  we dont  mind   i shore  you  can mack  something    to  do  the  job     .,  i  know  this wont  help  you  much  but  thers  about  5  difrant   cylencer  brackets   for  D 7  to  the B 175

 and  ther  not  allways  fited    on the  correct   year   bantams    .,ok   

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sunny
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March 30, 2021 - 9:24 am
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sorry  to say    BSA  made  a  lot of  changes     to  be  ready   for  the  year   1950    paints   , rearlights    to  mencheng   just    2    it  woz  an 

atempet   to  cachup  with  Triunph     leading   the way  with  the  swingarm   frame    .,.,Roy  Baycon   year   dates   gos    go  by the  registration

year   Sep  to  August    wich  confuses   thins  a  bit    ,.a

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lbayorkie
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March 30, 2021 - 1:32 pm
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Thanks everyone. As u can see the exhaust is now sitting where it should, but nothings been fully tightened yet. The flange doesnt fit well so thought about using a new copper gasket plus an old one for more thickness. The silencer doesnt fit tightly because of the outwards kick in the last couple of inches of the exhaust pipe. The silencer is touching the frame but this is because I think the bracket is in the wrong place (see diagram). It needs to be on the outside of the frame stay for the silencer to fit flush with it. Im also thinking the bracket is a  bit short. If I have to go to plan B and fit an under the stand exhaust the silencer is going to be at quite an angle hence I was wondering how long it should be. I hope the images help.

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cocorico
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March 30, 2021 - 2:32 pm
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No images, I'm afraid. I think I suggested starting the alignment at the exhaust port - you need a good seal there to avoid leaks and dirty stains. Adding more gaskets is a bodge, one new one and correct alignment is needed (it also gives you a solid mounting point to work from). You can then assess whether you need to use the broomstick technique, and it is surprising what a difference a bit of rotation of the pipe in the exhaust nut can make. The silencer itself can't be modified much, so it comes down to pipe angle and mounting bracket.

All assuming that pipe and silencer are pretty accurate to spec.

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lbayorkie
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March 30, 2021 - 2:54 pm
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Thanks. If I start at the flange the exhaust is the wrong side of the washer on the footrest, so about the width of the silencer too far over. I tried using force but it just bounces back. I will try again and see what can be done but I think  i may need a new exhaust. I just don't want to spend £80 on another one that doesn't fit. I spoke to Armour who seem to think the 'over' exhaust they sell for D3s can be made to fit and have offered to take out the kink that all these 'over' exhausts seem to have (I still don't know why)20210330_132238.jpg20210330_115438_resized.jpg20210330_115238_resized.jpg20210330_115205_resized.jpg

I've attached the images this time.

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cocorico
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March 30, 2021 - 5:10 pm
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Frustrating, I know. But if you don't start with a good joint at the exhaust port, everything else is pointless. The exhaust port is THE fixed point of reference and can't be modified. Here's a complete D3 exhaust from 1956, I don't see any kink that can be removed, plus the pipe is much shorter than a D1s. The silencer itself runs over the footrest. Also, your mounting bracket looks to have been repaired at its original position to me, possibly somewhat shorter, too, with that lapped joint.

D3-exhaust.JPG

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GlenAnderson
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March 30, 2021 - 5:40 pm
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Your bracket is in pretty much the right place. There should be a stud that screws into the silencer, then a spacer about 1/2” thick to give the correct stand-off so the silencer just clears the frame. 

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lbayorkie
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March 30, 2021 - 7:08 pm
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Thanks for going to all that trouble Cocorico. 

The above is the link to Armours D3 plunger exhaust. I actually think its a D1 plunger exhaust. This is the one they suggested should fit. Just like mine its got a kink in the end. They said they would remove the kink if I wanted, but didnt seem to know what the kink was there for.

Glen, I knew the bracket was in the right position on the chain stay but its helpful to know its shorter.

I didnt know about the stud and spacer. So those are next things to track down. If anyone has any spares please let me know.

Thanks

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GlenAnderson
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March 30, 2021 - 7:44 pm
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My '53 definitely left the factory with an over the footrest exhaust.

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lbayorkie
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March 30, 2021 - 8:24 pm
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Yet the exhaust suppliers and Bantam specialists say rigids only ever had under the footrest exhausts. No wonder most rigid owners have 'under' exhausts if that's whats being recommended. 

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cocorico
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March 30, 2021 - 8:34 pm
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1948 under1948.jpeg        1950 over BSA-Bantam-D1-1950.jpg

You appear to have an 'over' pipe, so probably easier to set up like that, rather than struggle on.

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