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October 31, 2019
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Hi
now got a big problem. Made up a simple tool to get the nut of the flywheel, all worked fine and off it came. I could now see that the threads on the flywheel shaft, which the puller screws onto didn’t look good. So I screwed the puller on to the end and started tightening the nut that should break the flywheel seal. No luck, I can get quite tight but when I tighten further it starts to slacken and is obviously pulling the puller of the thread. I’ve tried tapping it with a hammer but the flywheel is stuck fast.
i really need some help/advice, what else can I do. I’m not bothered about preserving the flywheel as I am going to replace it with an electronic system which comes with its own flywheel.
Does anyone know a possible solution?
a bit of a xxxxxxx of Hobbo
i will also put this on the technical section as well
October 31, 2019
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Hi all, got the flywheel of at last; took me all day. I tried using thread lock but that lasted all of 3 seconds and the puller came straight of.
In the end I used a bit of 5mm mill steel plate and cut a square ish bit slightly bigger than the flywheel. I cut a crude hole in the middle. I the drilled out all the 6 holes in the flywheel with a 8mm drill and taped them using a M8 tap. I could now bolt the plate to the flywheel. I bought a 3 legged puller from screw fix and initially I tried to use it in the centre hole with the feet turned out but it slipped of. So turned the feet to face in and positioned with the feet gripping the outside of the plate. I set the centre of the puller on the end of the crank, big mistake as it chewed the end and slipped of. Hopefully the damage won’t affect its running. So slipped a bolt onto the end of the crank so held by the collar on it and used a bit of steel plate on this, heated up the flywheel and screwed up the puller, a crack and the flywheel is now if.
can now head on to the next problem!!
October 31, 2019
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Hi,
i have decided to dismantle the engine and replace main bearings and all seals. Where is the best place to buy these from. I have read lots of threads where bought bearings and seals often don’t seem to fit?
cheers
Hobbo
June 13, 2015
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Have a word with Rex Caunt Racing. Believe he contacted a member to say he had the correct bearings with the correct profile now.
Mick
Edit found post ** Please log in to view ** it was Gary aka Bee175
April 19, 2018
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Here's an old post with the sizes. I get mine from Simply bearings too.
Jimmie said
My D7 has got a very second hand engine unit. Could someone give me the size/ref for the bearings as the existing ones are of the red type, ie rusty. Many thanks
Jimmie,
First, get a parts book for your bike. These are availble reasonably widely and are invaluable.
Her are the bearing details:
The inner crankshaft bearings are: LS8 or LJ3/4 or RLS6
The outer crankshaft bearing is: 6203 or Hoffman 117
The gearbox output bearing is: KLNJ7/8 or Hoffman S9 or EE8 or SMT R14
The mainshaft bearing (clutch) is: LS7 or LJ5/8
They may also have other part numbers and for reference Hoffman are no longer with us.
I have always found this firm speedy with their deliveries ** Please log in to view ** as are T&G motorcycles. Local bearing stockests are good (because they are local) as are some other Bantam parts suppliers.
Similarly, you can source all the seals from stockists - sizes here ** Please log in to view **
Or get a set all made up from one of the many suppliers online
.
'52 D1 direct lighting plunger, '58 Square Four (project), '59 D1 direct lighting plunger, '59 Tiger Cub, '60 5TA, '76 FS1-E
December 12, 2018
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Hi bantammad ere here is a way of working out approximately how many extra chain links you may require look too see what you need lets say 14 t and 47 t you 120 links as a ball park figure now you gonna fit 58t drive sprocket so you require 11 more links follow me have fun regards LES
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