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Hobbo D3 Trail Build
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Hobbo
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October 31, 2019 - 1:37 pm
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hi I have just bought my first British bike, a bantam d3 swingarm. It’s a non runner but I think will run easily I hope, it looks like it’s been used fairly recently. I am hoping to convert it so I can ride it in non competitive trails. I have loads of questions so will ask a few at a time as I progress through the build

i want to add an aluminium bash plate below the engine, what is the idea thickness of the aluminium?

i also want to replace the footrests with folding ones nearer and below the swingarm pivot. How do I put these on, is there anywhere I can buy a kit or do I need to make a plate for each side?

i want to put a higher exhaust pipe on, I can see where I can buy the part that bolts to the engine, do I have to use the original cone shaped end or is there a smaller alternative I can buy?

i will be carrying the bike on a rack on the back of my car, what can I do to lighten the bike so it’s easier to lift?

many thanks 

newby Hobbo

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Hobbo
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October 31, 2019 - 6:37 pm
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Hi I have just joined the forum. I have been into bikes all my life and have a real passion for Kawasaki triples from the 70s. Unfortunately I only ride these during the warmer , drier months so have been looking for a way to keep active, bike wise during the winter.

After pondering for a while I decided to invest in a bantam and convert it to a trails bike. I don’t intend taking the riding too seriously, I just want to have some fun. Recently I bought a D3 with the swingarm and am starting the process of turning into an acceptable trails bike. I don’t want to go too far and like the idea of keeping it fairly original. I have never had a British bike before so it’ll be a steep learning curve though I am familiar with two strokes having renovated three triples.

I am based in Sheffield and will be asking loads of questions as I progress through the conversion.

looking forward to getting into this club and meeting members wherever I can

best

Hobbo

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swalsh58
St. Mary's Bay, Kent
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October 31, 2019 - 7:18 pm
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Welcome to the forum. I recently sold my S3, but I only had the one. If you get stuck with something just ask, there is a stack of info on the site though if you can find it. I struggle getting used to the gears and brake lever being on opposite sides, and I really have to think about it when im out and about on it! Good luck.

Current bikes......1958 D5,  and a 76 Honda C90 in the workshop.

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Stoo63
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November 1, 2019 - 11:41 am
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Hi Hobbo and welcome, sounds like an interesting project you have planned. All the info you could ever want or need(and more) is available on the site. Usually in the FAQs or technical section. Also, perhaps more relevant to you, the trials and offroad section. You'l find it easier to search via google than use ethe forum's internal search engine. For example, try typing "D3 forks bantam forum" into google. It'll give you much more focused results. Similarly just substitue "D3 forks" for whatever your query might be. If you can't find an answer just ask. Someone will usually have an answer for you. If you're interested in Club events etc, it might be worth joining the Club, which also opens up a load more technical info in the Members Only area. Most of all, enjoy your bike. They're great fun!

All the best

Stewart

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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cocorico
Central France
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November 1, 2019 - 12:08 pm
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Just a thought - if you are not intending 'serious' stuff, you may find it easier to model your conversion on existing models, like the Trail Bronc, Pastoral or Bushman. I've read your other post and think you will probably be able to make a reasonable Trailie more easily than modifying frames, footrests, etc. As for a bash plate, I'd have thought something around 4mm would be strong enough. Good luck with it whatever you do - your bike, your choice.

You might get some ideas from ** Please log in to view ** though.

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Broadsman
Cromer Norfolk
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November 1, 2019 - 7:27 pm
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Hi Hobbo,

I also have a D3 springer which I use for green lanes. See below a couple of my previous posts you might find interesting/useful....

** Please log in to view **

** Please log in to view **

Might give you some ideas? 

D3 Trials & D14 - Plus a couple of Panthers lurking around!

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Hobbo
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November 4, 2019 - 2:30 pm
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Hi

thanks for the help, I will persevere with trying to get footpegs on, the red ones on the site are a great help, though struggling with the swing arm as it has only a bolt on one end.

can anyone suggest where I can buy sprockets from, particularly a 58t rear wheel and a 14t engine. I can’t find anywhere I can get them both from without a month waiting.

cheers

Hobbo

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cocorico
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November 4, 2019 - 6:01 pm
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Hobbo said
...where I can buy sprockets from, particularly a 58t rear wheel and a 14t engine. I can’t find anywhere I can get them both from without a month waiting.

cheers

Hobbo  

You could try Talon Engineering. I had a set from them for my D3. Be very specific if you order from them - I had quite a few problems at first, but I was going to 420 instead of the original Renolds chain and had a mixture of sprockets arrive originally.

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Hobbo
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November 9, 2019 - 9:41 pm
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Hi 

I have ordered a set of sprockets and need a bit of advice. I have read that I need to get a new gearbox seal holder to fit the 14t front sprocket with a 420 chain. Can anyone recommend where I can get one? I have searched high and low. This is to fit a D3 swingarm.

any help much appreciated

cheers

Hobbo

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Hobbo
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November 10, 2019 - 10:31 am
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Thanks Mick

i will give that a go when I get the sprockets, unfortunately I have to wait a couple of weeks for them.

one other question, when I buy a new 420 chain for a D3 with 58 and 14 sprockets, how many links long should it be?

i guess there will be loads of other questions as I get going with it 

cheers

Hobbo

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cocorico
Central France
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November 10, 2019 - 11:36 am
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I had that sort of problem fitting 420 chain to my D3, can't remember what I ended up with, I would suggest measuring the length required once the sprockets are fitted, then using the 420 link measurement to find how many you need. 420 pitch is 12.7mm, so dividing your total (in mm) by that should work. Maybe? dunno

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Hobbo
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November 15, 2019 - 9:48 pm
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Hi

the build is coming along. A quick question, how do you get the nut from the flywheel, the one before you use the puller, without having to resort to taking the barrel and piston of to jam a rod into the conrod? 

This will sound dumb, but I ordered a set of 3/8 Whitworth Allen bolts to hold the flywheel cover on. The bike was missing the cover when I bought it. The Allen bolts arrived and are loads too wide. I measured the ‘hole’ with my Vernier calipers and it’s 3/8 wide. I have done this right? So can only think the bolts I was sent are wrong size. I couldn’t find any 3/8 short screws, which was what I was looking for. Can anyone suggest a source of these screws?

best

Hobbo

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Stoo63
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November 15, 2019 - 10:53 pm
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Hi Hobbo, have a look here. ** Please log in to view **

I'm not sure exactly what bolts/screws you're looking for. But the 3 to hold the stator cover on are listed as 3/4 whitworth? Once you identify the bolts/screws, it should be easy to find some. There's a load of casing screw sets on Ebay but if you only need a couple, why pay 20quid?

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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cocorico
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November 16, 2019 - 8:05 am
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Hobbo said
... how do you get the nut from the flywheel, the one before you use the puller, without having to resort to taking the barrel and piston of to jam a rod into the conrod? ...

You could try putting the bike in gear and applying the rear brake, but if the nut is tight you may need stronger measures. I made up a 'special tool' from a couple of small screws (basically, a peg spanner), which are a snug fit in the drillings of the flywheel outer surface. These are then bolted to a length of light tube, strip, whatever, at the appropriate distance apart to fit into a hole on each side of the rim, which gives a lever to lock rotation. BE AWARE - don't go straight across the flywheel - it blocks access to the nut!

Or you could buy something like ** Please log in to view **.

Once the nut is off, make sure there is no lock washer under it and the threads are clean before inserting the puller to full depth. If the flywheel has not been off for ages, the fun continues...

And if this is teaching you to suck eggs, sorry.wink

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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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November 16, 2019 - 8:14 am
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I too made up a simple peg ‘spanner’ for my little Benelli, seemed to work ok, which is good because on these bikes you need to remove the rotor in order to adjust the points!

“There’s nothing new under the sun”.

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Hobbo
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November 16, 2019 - 9:36 am
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That’s brill, I was thinking along the same lines, a couple of protruding bolts that fit into the holes in the flywheel then bolted through a bar.

the two screws are the ones that hold the round small cover in place, the one that has BSA stamped on it. I bought two from someone on eBay that were supposed to be the right ones but they were clearly too thin, hence my measuring the screw hole which is 3/8. I will check out eBay again.

this is my first British bike, only ever had Jap two strokes before. The bantam is amazingly solid for a 63 year old bike, though for its size very heavy. The screws and bolt sizes are definitely bewildering!

i bought a small mig welder last week. Luckily a good friend is a welder and he came round yesterday to train me up, I would have struggled big time without his help. Anyway now feel confident-ish about making and welding new plates etc as I go along. I guess by the time I have finished the welder will have paid for itself.

cheers

Hobbo

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cocorico
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November 16, 2019 - 10:43 am
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Good luck with the welder - very useful if you can master it (especially MIG). I have a small Inverter one, which is handy, and a big old 'buzz box' - which is great for heavy stuff, very heavy and with 2 power settings (high and higher).

I am fairly sure that the screws you need are 3BA, as are most of the others in that area. I don't think I have any spare, unfortunately.

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Hobbo
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November 16, 2019 - 3:26 pm
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Hi

now got a big problem. Made up a simple tool to get the nut of the flywheel, all worked fine and off it came. I could now see that the threads on the flywheel shaft, which the puller screws onto didn’t look good. So I screwed the puller on to the end and started tightening the nut that should break the flywheel seal. No luck, I can get quite tight but when I tighten further it starts to slacken and is obviously pulling the puller of the thread. I’ve tried tapping it with a hammer but the flywheel is stuck fast.

i really need some help/advice, what else can I do. I’m not bothered about preserving the flywheel as I am going to replace it with an electronic system which comes with its own flywheel. 

Does anyone know a possible solution?

a bit of a xxxxxxx of Hobbo

i will also put this on the technical section as well

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Hobbo
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November 18, 2019 - 7:41 pm
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Hi all, got the flywheel of at last; took me all day. I tried using thread lock but that lasted all of 3 seconds and the puller came straight of. 

In the end I used a bit of 5mm mill steel plate and cut a square ish bit slightly bigger than the flywheel. I cut a crude hole in the middle. I the drilled out all the 6 holes in the flywheel with a 8mm drill and taped them using a M8 tap. I could now bolt the plate to the flywheel. I bought a 3 legged puller from screw fix and initially I tried to use it in the centre hole with the feet turned out but it slipped of. So turned the feet to face in and positioned with the feet gripping the outside of the plate. I set the centre of the puller on the end of the crank, big mistake as it chewed the end and slipped of. Hopefully the damage won’t affect its running. So slipped a bolt onto the end of the crank so held by the collar on it and used a bit of steel plate on this, heated up the flywheel and screwed up the puller, a crack and the flywheel is now if.

can now head on to the next problem!!

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Hobbo
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November 18, 2019 - 10:08 pm
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Hi,

i have decided to dismantle the engine and replace main bearings and all seals. Where is the best place to buy these from. I have read lots of threads where bought bearings and seals often don’t seem to fit?

cheers

Hobbo

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