As part of Bertie's restoration, I took some parts along to a company local to me that advertise in classic bike and car magazines, in Surrey for a quote to have them re-chromed.
They wanted £95 for the silencer, £45 for the exhaust pipe, £45 for the handle bars And £35 for the brake and clutch lever. I thanked them and pointed out that was more than the cost of buying new. Is that really the price I should expect to pay? All the items had some pitting, but they certainly were not badly rusted.
I've ordered new bars with levers and polished the silencer and exhaust - which haven't come up too bad. It's always a shame to ditch something because it is cheaper to buy new.
October 1, 2011
I've been caught out by this before on my yamaha XJ650 I wanted to keep it original but was a bit stupid the costs were in line with those stated. I think I paid about £95 for the front mud guard one came up on eBay shortly afterwaards for £100 the front brake hose holders were the worst £12 each and the finish was pants, I managed to get a hold of NOS items £7.50 each.
Ho Hum you live and learn. I would recommend looking arround for NOS items first and any item you cannot get then get that item re finished.
The cost of re-chroming is going up and up because of the EU environmental laws. At the time I spoke to the company re-chroming my bits and bobs and he was thinking of getting out of the game too much hassle plus the EU laws are self defeating since its lead to a load of fly by night companys just doing it on the sly and dumping the chemicals anywhere.
I suppose it keeps a couple of 100 civil servants in Brussles happy since on paper it all works great
Most of the cost in chroming is down to the preparation. You’ve got initial degreasing and then stripping of any of the old finish – usually the grotty chrome that you don’t like. The big cost is then in the hand finishing of usually quite awkwardly shaped components. On top of this, particularly with exhausts things then have to be sealed up before anything goes in to the tanks. The chemicals and metals involved are expensive in themselves.
If you think about it then any part that is being produced in reasonably large numbers will cost less than doing all of this work in bringing something back up to snuff. Unless parts are unobtainable, or you really must use your original componentry then you will mostly be better placed than going for rechroming. This is on the assumption that the new part has been reasonably well put together and the chrome on it is better than wafer thin. And don’t go for the cheapest quote when you are checking out chroming shops, again; quality will out.
I only use Quality Chrome for my stuff. They are expensive and they work in their own sweet time, and mostly they don’t often bother to ring me on progress. But on recommendation I had them do my A10 tank (big money) and it’s gorgeous. All the stuff for my H1 is with them at the moment – no clue yet on when I’m going to get that back.
BTW – I’m hearing rumours that the eurocrats are considering an all out ban on chrome plating – presumably on environmental grounds. I’m not sure what we’re all supposed to do then
bertie bantam said
and polished the silencer and exhaust - which haven't come up too bad. It's always a shame to ditch something because it is cheaper to buy new.
yes but the quality of some new chrome pattern parts is abysmal
particularly the exhaust,
D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/
November 18, 2012
October 14, 2011
In my experience a bad idea to have rechromed. I had my wheels done about 18 months ago which weren’t too badly pitted by a quality rechromer, looked really good at first, but rust is just starting to come through again it seems no matter how well prepared once rust gets a grip you can’t kill it. Partly my own fault though as the rechromer was honest enough to warn me. Think you’re better buying new and it might also be cheaper.
Thanks for all your replies and feedback everyone. I think you're right Cyclobush, it takes a lot of work to prepare parts for re-chroming, and that's where a lot of the money goes. Yes - if you're going for concours, then you have to spend the money.
I'm happy to get my bike to look like a fifty year old bike that's in good nick for it's age. All I need to do is paint it all, put it back together, and then take my test so I can actually ride it.
From what I remember your bike looked pretty good as it was ... I like the ones that look like what they are ... good honest 60+ motorcycle ... those that are concourse, well, sorry but BSA never had that kind of finish from the factory even in 1961 ... ride it enjoy it ... your mate's will soon be asking why the silly smile
July 25, 2014
January 9, 2015
November 16, 2011
My ears always prick up when someone mentions the D5,because I`ve got some swatting up to do on this model for when I get around to doing mine.It`s in a very sorry state,non original stuff,parts missing etc.Currently buried under a pile of bike spares,so can`t even get to the handlebars to check.Are they the same as the early D7 ones.If so,aren`t they available new between twenty and thirty quid?Bit cheaper than rechroming the old ones...no?
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