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Single switch for ignition AND lights?
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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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February 7, 2020 - 3:01 pm
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In the mood of waste not want not I’ve got a single switch wipac headlight unit (very like the Bushman Pastoral one) which I think will fit better on my mongrel than the one currently fitted.  The electrics on the bike are anything but standard, they are 6v but using the full output of the generator through a reg/rec to charge a battery and the thence to a remote coil ignition. I currently have two switches fitted but the ‘new’ headlight has only one. I don’t want to drill the headlight to fit a larger switch so I’m left using the original Wipac light switch.

My question is ... is there any reason not to use the standard wipac switch as a simple three position switch to control both ignition and lights?  So the switch would be off in its far left position (L or E) ignition would be using contacts 1&2 so that it is off at far left and on at both other positions.  Lights would be controlled using contacts 4&5 so off at far left and middle position, on at far right (H or I).  Horn and brake light would be permanently live, direct from battery.

So would/should it work?

Thanks,

Stu

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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sunny
Norfolk
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February 7, 2020 - 3:57 pm
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i   tryed      &   rely  mest   with  my  head       then  realised     WYPAC   would   have  don it   for  BSA   being  mouny tyt      its  much  beter to put  the   engine  switch  under   the seat     most   bantam  systams  lack    power   

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mike p5xbx
E-Sussex
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February 7, 2020 - 5:24 pm
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Link pins 8-6-3
power in P7 output P8 ign on switch “I”
lights “on” outputs on P2 + P9 +ign on switch L
choose one of those for dip switch

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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February 21, 2020 - 11:31 am
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To update progress.

I made my brain hurt looking at the schematics for the Wipac switch and came to the conclusion that I should have a go.  So the connections go like this ....

(viewed from underneath the switch with the ‘blank’ terminal as number 10 and then numbered clockwise)

terminals 1 & 8 to the battery.

terminal 2 to the coil.

terminal 9 to the front pilot light.

terminal 7 to the handlebar light switch (for dipped and main beam) and to the rear light.

(terminal 5 to earth).

Now looking from the top of the switch this gives ‘off’ in the far left position, ignition and pilot light at the mid position and ignition and main lights in the far right position. Terminal 2 to the coil is live in the mid and far right positions thanks to the internal connection between terminals 10 & 2.

I should say again that the rest of the wiring is far from standard, it is very much simpler with full generator output at all times with voltage regulated by a regulator/rectifier fitted. All protected by a fuse in the battery live (-ve in my case as I’ve retained +ve earth). All still 6v.

It all seems to work off the bike, now just got to get the new headlight fitted and connected up to test it out in place. The net effect is a further simplification of the wiring, a neater headlamp shell, one less switch to fail and the switch knob points straight ahead for normal daylight running (rather than being askew).

(pictures/diagram later).

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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February 21, 2020 - 4:13 pm
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D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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