A A A
Avatar

Please consider registering
Guest

Search

— Forum Scope —






— Match —





— Forum Options —





Minimum search word length is 3 characters - maximum search word length is 84 characters

Register Lost password?
sp_Feed sp_PrintTopic sp_TopicIcon
Electrex World CDI Wiring Plug
Avatar
Ranald
Second Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 35
Member Since:
March 10, 2021
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
1
June 4, 2021 - 9:02 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi, I’m connecting up the CDI unit and have noticed that the wires in the CDI plug do not correspond to the other half of the plug from the stator….. basically the blue and white wires in the plug from the stator seem to have been transposed.  Does any one know what each wire does and whether this matters?  Also any ideas on how to remove the wires from the plug?  Your tube has failed me.  I’ve attached a couple of photos. I’m hoping this may explain why I’m not getting a spark, well I did see one and managed after a lot of trying to get a shock from the bare ht lead so something seems amiss!9DE4FCC5-080C-4D31-AF18-E3DDA13D35EA.jpegE802EA65-63F0-48B8-9B02-486F19088260.jpeg

Avatar
Nick_S
Coffs Harbour, Australia
Second Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 49
Member Since:
December 6, 2019
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
2
June 4, 2021 - 9:58 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Looks like someone has ****** up. I would transpose one of the pair. Their wiring diagrams clearly show white/white, blue/blue.

Avatar
Ranald
Second Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 35
Member Since:
March 10, 2021
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
3
June 4, 2021 - 10:23 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

That’s what I thought, just wanted to determine what the wires do, so I can understand the effect of them being wrong 😀

Avatar
Nick_S
Coffs Harbour, Australia
Second Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 49
Member Since:
December 6, 2019
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
4
June 5, 2021 - 1:10 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

I think Electrex World would be the only ones to give you a definitive answer to that question.

As you probably know, there are terminal removal tools available to buy online but these cheaper types are usually quite easily removed with a bit of caution/patience & a small watchmakers screwdriver. 

Avatar
mikef
Chatham Kent
Club Technical Advisor
Committee
Forum Posts: 984
Member Since:
September 30, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
5
June 5, 2021 - 8:13 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi Ranald.
      As said previously, Electrex World are the only ones that could give you a definitive answer. The only information that I could find is on their trouble shooting guide. It shows how those pins are retained. See link below. A message to their technical support is the best way to go I think.
** Please log in to view **
Good luck.
          Mike.

Avatar
Ranald
Second Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 35
Member Since:
March 10, 2021
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
6
June 5, 2021 - 8:26 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Thanks Mike,  I think I will just cut the wires, swop them over with a chocolate box connector to see if it works.  If it does I will solder and heat shrink the connection neatly.  If it doesn’t I’ll contact technical support, I’ll feedback on the results.

Avatar
mikef
Chatham Kent
Club Technical Advisor
Committee
Forum Posts: 984
Member Since:
September 30, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
7
June 5, 2021 - 8:50 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Just one more thought. Electrex did explain in one of their documents that the spark from a CDI is of short duration and may be difficult to see.

Avatar
Ranald
Second Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 35
Member Since:
March 10, 2021
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
8
June 5, 2021 - 8:54 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Yes but I thought I would at least get a shock from the end of the HT lead.  

Avatar
Ranald
Second Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 35
Member Since:
March 10, 2021
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
9
June 5, 2021 - 9:57 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Well I’ve temporarily stopped the wires over and now have a nice reliable spark 😀😀. Engine hasn’t fired up yet but I think it just needs the crank case draining and drying out after all my cranking etc.  I will try and get it going tomorrow, at least I have made one step forward.  
D809EE48-E11C-4C5A-ABD9-132157CF1DE4.jpeg

Avatar
mikef
Chatham Kent
Club Technical Advisor
Committee
Forum Posts: 984
Member Since:
September 30, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
10
June 5, 2021 - 10:13 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Great news. I hope the next step goes smoothly. I think a phone call to Electrex is in order.

Avatar
Sponge
Lancashire (A chip shop somewhere near Preston)
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 605
Member Since:
November 6, 2016
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
11
June 5, 2021 - 7:13 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

This is very interesting...please inform us of your findings when EW have responded. 

Sponge

Avatar
GlenAnderson
Dover
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 409
Member Since:
August 27, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
12
June 6, 2021 - 2:53 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

The pins in those plugs are held in with little tags. Normally you can unhook them with a jeweller’s screwdriver. 

Avatar
Ranald
Second Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 35
Member Since:
March 10, 2021
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
13
June 15, 2021 - 5:02 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi I received this reply from Electrex world….

Hi,

We have made a change to the kit but not updated the wiring diagram, sorry about that.

The kit you have is correct and the wiring diagram wrong.

With the piston at TDC align 19-degree mark with blue dot on the stator.

Regards

Bob

so……

I have used 16.5 degree mark and double checked my wiring all is in order and today I got the engine running 😀😀.  I could not see a spark but was given confidence by holding the ht lead and at least getting a shock when the engine was turned over.  I think my problem is that I read the instructions as not needing a battery or the capacitor alternative to run the ignition.  All I can say is that I only got a shock from the ht lead once I had correctly installed either the battery or the capacitor lighting system.  If anyone has a detailed knowledge of the STK 177 ignition system and could explain how it works in layman’s terms ie which wire provides the trigger signal etc etc it would be brilliant.  My engine is now running without a battery and using the capacitor for lighting and horn.  I just need to fettle things to get the easy 1 or 2 kick start from cold,  I think I’ll start by taking the bike out for a nice long run to clear it out a bit and have some fun.  I’m now going for several cold beers to celebrate 😀😀😀

Avatar
cocorico
Central France
Top Gear User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 3320
Member Since:
June 23, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
14
June 15, 2021 - 5:24 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

I can't be specific to Electrex World,  but the CDI systems I have worked with are similar to a magneto. The stator has a series of heavy gauge coils to generate power for lights, etc, and there is one coil which generates a low voltage to power the CDI and a trigger coil to provide a signal once every revolution into the CDI module, to trigger the HT. There is often a warning not to operate it without a spark plug, as that can damage the unit. Also the voltage is much higher and can be dangerous if you have a dicky ticker.

There are plenty of drawings and videos on the net. hope-that-helps

Avatar
Ranald
Second Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 35
Member Since:
March 10, 2021
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
15
June 15, 2021 - 7:01 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Thanks Cocorico,

I’ll attach a couple of photos of my Stator and Rotor.  My best guess is that two coils provide an AC supply to the regulator/rectifier using the two yellow wires.  One coil provides the voltage to the CDI unit not sure whether this would be AC or DC or the blue or white wire.  And that the black coil is the trigger coil again not sure if this is the blue or white wire.  The black wire appears to be an earth.  Again this is all only guess work as I am not really electrically minded.  I did have a thought the supply to the CDI could be AC using the blue and white wires and some how the black wire is the trigger wire? I really just don’t know but would like to learn for future reference!  I also think the grove in the rotor magnet  could be the the trigger?  Anyway the engine is running so I am going in the right direction 😀434104AE-C655-463E-9668-56975C7F9C1F.jpeg77F6761E-F08E-4F0D-B0DD-A112CD912FCA.jpeg

Avatar
mike p5xbx
E-Sussex
Top Gear User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 1647
Member Since:
June 15, 2012
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
16
June 17, 2021 - 12:18 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Ranald said
Hi I received this reply from Electrex world….
Hi,
We have made a change to the kit but not updated the wiring diagram, sorry about that.
The kit you have is correct and the wiring diagram wrong.
  

That doesn't make any sense to me, seems to have ignored the fact that you had to cut and change the wires in the wiring plug to get it to work, did you ask specificity about that
I take it you have made sure the HT coil metal body part has a good earth connection

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

Avatar
Nick_S
Coffs Harbour, Australia
Second Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 49
Member Since:
December 6, 2019
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
17
June 17, 2021 - 12:32 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

mike p5xbx said

That doesn't make any sense to me, seems to have ignored the fact that you had to cut and change the wires in the wiring plug to get it to work, did you ask specificity about that
I take it you have made sure the HT coil metal body part has a good earth connection  

Couldn’t agree more Mike. They obviously haven’t understood the issue, there is no way any professional company would cross wire deliberately surely.

Avatar
Ranald
Second Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 35
Member Since:
March 10, 2021
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
18
June 17, 2021 - 7:52 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi, there is definitely something strange going on.  I put the wiring back to as it was supplied (Blue and white crossed over) took my time double checked the wiring earth connections etc etc….not a hint of a spark or shock from HT lead.  ( This was with the battery removed )  I then installed the Capacitor pack for the lighting and was able to get a shock from the HT lead… no visible spark but managed to start the engine after several kicks 👍.  I was under the impression from the instructions thar the ignition was independent from the charging circuit, I’m now wondering if it requires the charging circuit to be connected to complete a circuit to make it work.

I am finding this all a bit confusing almost losing track of where I have been,  so I think I will spend the next few weeks tidying everything up and checking a few things, then I will try and feed back with all my results and hopefully some  information that may be useful to others.  In the meantime if anyone has the complete circuit diagram for the ST 177 kit (Down to component level ie the electronics inside the CDI) or an explanation of the function of each wire and whether it is AC or DC etc it would be great if they could share it.  Thanks 😀

Forum Timezone: Europe/London

Most Users Ever Online: 223

Currently Online: Pootle
18 Guest(s)

Currently Browsing this Page:
1 Guest(s)

Top Posters:

cocorico: 3320

Cornish Rooster: 2917

Blue Heeler: 2435

bart: 2428

David Dale: 2144

Sprung Chicken: 2121

Piquet: 1846

sunny: 1821

Mags 1: 1753

mike p5xbx: 1647

Newest Members:

sprayerandy

Forum Stats:

Groups: 9

Forums: 48

Topics: 10628

Posts: 93900

 

Member Stats:

Guest Posters: 1366

Members: 3347

Moderators: 0

Admins: 3

Administrators: Bantam-Super, JMD, Stoo63