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Aluminium mudguards
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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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September 15, 2017 - 8:15 pm
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Hi All,

I'm planning to smarten up my bike with some new ally guards to replace the tatty old ally ones.  I've been fortunate enough to get two brand new guards still in their wrappers for a good price.

My question is what is the best way of shaping the guards?  I will need to put some indentations in the front one to clear the fork stanchions and on the rear I need to indent the front left section to clear the chainguard.  How do I go about this?

All help and advice gratefully received.

thanks

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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chickensoup
Bolton, Greater Manchester
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September 15, 2017 - 9:47 pm
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Hi,

This has the potential to go very bad, as a sheet metal worker myself, I would fabricate a block, the shape of what you need to indent into. The material ( mudguard ) needs to be supported by a block or weight from behind where you are hammering. A piece of hard wood could be used, file, rasp and sand paper to the contour of the inside of the front mudguard, then file/ rasp out the depression you need to go round the forks.

Use the ball end of a ball pien hammer, and lightly knock the excess material into the recess of your block, use many light accurate taps with the hammer instead of belting the material in, in 3 goes. Aluminium is lovely to work with and any excess hammer marks can be polished out with 1200 emery and T Cut.

You will also have to position the block accurately, I have found that putting masking tape on the mudguard, means you can mark out positions accurately with a pencil. Also great for marking out hole positions. The block has to stay in the same position throughout the hammering process. Try practicing on the old rotted mudguard or scrap piece of Aluminium if possible.

The rear mudguard can be done in the same way but again you will need a block. Using the pien end of the ball pien hammer on the flat sections to be beaten. When I fitted my new rear mudguard, I managed to notch out the chain guard alittle, so no alteration to the mudguard was needed. Not sure if this can be done on all bantams though. 

Hope this helps and doesn't put you off.... Nick

1950 BSA D1 Plunger   242 UYW

1966 BSA D7  LBF 62 D

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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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September 15, 2017 - 10:06 pm
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Thanks Chickensoup, that's very helpful.  Sounds like a long job but I'm not in a rush and would rather get something that fits properly in the end.

Thanks again.

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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flintdog
barnstaple
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September 15, 2017 - 10:24 pm
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when did my front it was just bit to wide were fork legs were so marked were it was and hit it with hammer handle but nice little dent 2 clear fork leg 

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chickensoup
Bolton, Greater Manchester
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September 15, 2017 - 10:24 pm
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No probs,

Unfortunately the work is in making your forming blocks. the hammering/ forming will take about 5 minutes. I made my D1 rear mudguard from scratch, and it took me about 100 hours, so I wont be doing that again soon. All the work is in the formers. seek advice from other members too, and if you know someone in the tin bashing trade involve them also. 

I admire your have a go attitude and good luck... nick

1950 BSA D1 Plunger   242 UYW

1966 BSA D7  LBF 62 D

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