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How fit clutch without special tool
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mickreeves
March, Cambs.
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April 27, 2016 - 1:52 pm
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clutch4.jpg

1. Tighten or loosen clutch centre nut.

fit the clutch plates, finishing with a steel plate.
Use two G clamps to press the plates together.
the clamps can lock against the case to hold the clutch still. 

clutch.jpg

2. Fitting the outer plate with springs.

Assemble the set  with the outer plate like this, then fit into the basket.

clutch3.jpg

3. Compressing the clutch springs to fit the spring circlip.

Again use two G clamps. Wire around the top to hold the clamps together.
(They try to pull apart)
The grips at the bottom are just to hole the circlip at one side, whilst you get the other side in.
Mick

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Bournemouth Bantams
St. Veep, Lostwithiel, Cornwall
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April 27, 2016 - 8:09 pm
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I would not recommend this as the point load on the outer cover, exerted by the "G" clamp foot could well bend the cover plate. the proper tool spreads the load across the surface of the plate.

The tool is an inexpensive item and as long as you buy the version that is manufactured from spring steel rather than the version made from mild steel, the legs often spread on this version when you put pressure on it, then it will last years. I have used one of these for the past five years. 

Supplier and stockist of Bantam spares.

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Derek's D5
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April 27, 2016 - 10:16 pm
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Howard, for the benefit of new-ish forum members who haven't yet done a clutch, can you indicate where to get the inexpensive spring steel manufactured clutch tool that you refer to? I ended up getting an old original one which was not cheap, but worth it for someone who is going to use it a lot. The cheap £20 one I got first of all does have bendy legs!

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Bournemouth Bantams
St. Veep, Lostwithiel, Cornwall
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April 27, 2016 - 10:50 pm
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H

Dookie said
Howard, for the benefit of new-ish forum members who haven't yet done a clutch, can you indicate where to get the inexpensive spring steel manufactured clutch tool that you refer to? I ended up getting an old original one which was not cheap, but worth it for someone who is going to use it a lot. The cheap £20 one I got first of all does have bendy legs!

hi Dookie yes I could but as a parts supplier that could be classed as me advertising which I think would be a breach of the forum rules. 

Howard

Supplier and stockist of Bantam spares.

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Mags 1
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April 27, 2016 - 10:56 pm
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I'd like to see the two G clamps and bit of wire etc in action with engine in bike....!

Just buy the proper tool and save some grey hairs I say!

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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MOSOGER
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April 28, 2016 - 1:28 am
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Mick..

For what its worth I think its a positive idea.tip-my-hat

Although Bournemouth Bantams warning's of possible damage is a constructive Criticism and should be Noted.clap

As they say "necessity is the MOTHER of all inventions".

Please keep posting any other wild idea's... good.... bad or other.thumbs-up

I have several made tools for various jobs from Members posting them on this site,thank-you

Regards Bob.

Mosoger

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mickreeves
March, Cambs.
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April 30, 2016 - 8:52 pm
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I fitted my clutch again today, with the g clamps. Went better than first time. Took about 15 minutes.

Mick

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350biker
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November 2, 2017 - 10:22 pm
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I would recommend getting hold of one of the original cast units but needs must. A group of us had to get our hands/fingers into the job when a fellow BSA OC member had the big spring come out whilst on a camping rally with no fitting tool in site!

On a related topic can anyone tell me how to do this job with an endless primary chain i.e. no split link, please?

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mike p5xbx
E-Sussex
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November 2, 2017 - 10:42 pm
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its simple you fit the clutch and engine sprocket with the chain on
then use the correct tool which fits between the chain and clutch basket

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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BASIL
Hamstreet,Ashford.
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November 3, 2017 - 9:50 am
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Hi, all I have a correct cast clutch tool if anyone wants to borrow it just pm me. Regards Basil.

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flintdog
barnstaple
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November 3, 2017 - 8:09 pm
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i made mine useing 20x10 tube dont flex like the cheap ones and cheaper the the cast ones

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Digby
Leeds West Yorkshire
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November 3, 2017 - 8:23 pm
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flintdog said
i made mine useing 20x10 tube dont flex like the cheap ones and cheaper the the cast ones  

That's interesting,have you got a picture to show us?

1968 D14.1965 Honda CB160,1978 Honda 400/4 Supersport,Honda Innova.D10 silver ( JPS) 1976 Kawasaki KH 250 project.

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flintdog
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November 3, 2017 - 8:48 pm
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i will try to load on here with phone i can do it on face book site but have truble on here 

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flintdog
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November 3, 2017 - 9:13 pm
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flintdog said
i will try to load on here with phone i can do it on face book site but have truble on here   

  

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350biker
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November 4, 2017 - 11:27 pm
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Thanks mike p5xbx but what is the correct tool and where can I buy one? 

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mike p5xbx
E-Sussex
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November 5, 2017 - 12:44 am
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the original cast type, but they are a bit heavy and OTT really
there only the two types available New these days on ebay
type 1 and type 2 below
I think you should be able to see that type 2 would have problems opening a packet of cornflakes with flimsy legs that are bent before you even start
type 3 is what the original BSA tool looked like they sometimes come up for sale second-hand
type-1.png

type-2.png

type-3.png

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D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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Mags 1
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November 5, 2017 - 5:04 pm
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I've had mine since 1971, it's marked MAC or similar, it looks like none of the three, but it's solid and dependable, bell shaped piece that sits on clutch top is held on by a push on grip type flimsy clip, so is not perfect, wish I had a £ for every time I've used it though!

I have plenty of materials, I may have a go at making some one day, but most folk use them once or twice only and don't want to pay what it costs to make quality items with decent materials in this country any more, now that you can get c*** from China for a £1 a time?

Sorry if that offends but if you pay junk prices, junk is what you end up with.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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chickensoup
Bolton, Greater Manchester
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November 5, 2017 - 8:53 pm
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Hi all, just like to add my two penny worth also. I also had the same problem when I started my Bantam repairs apprenticeship a few years ago. I have also been meaning to buy the correct tool for dis-mantling the clutch.

I picked up a set of sprocket pullers from tool mart for about £17 .00. the smaller set is used for extracting the primary drive sprocket off the crank shaft next to the clutch housing.

The larger set, with the combined use of a bit of tube and flat bar compresses the clutch assembly and springs brilliantly and evenly. This is the fact why I havn't purchased the correct tool for the job. I would like to add that I have only carried out repairs to the clutch, with the complete engine out of the frame, and on my work bench. Using the sprocket puller method may be a bit trickier with the engine still in the frame.

I will be carrying out a clutch repair soon that requires new springs and drive plates, so we will find out..... Nick

                           Kind regards,  Nick     Bolton, Greater Manchester

                              1950 D1 Plunger Frame with 1958 D5 Engine,

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Mags 1
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November 5, 2017 - 11:53 pm
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Clutch work with engine in bike is easier if you tip bike over onto its nearside first, you don't even need to drain the oil either.

Wet batteries need removing first and don't try the job with a full fuel tank either.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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nickjaxe
Runcorn Cheshire UK
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November 7, 2017 - 9:37 pm
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I have the type 2 tool as in the pic above....used it quite a few times...to stop the legs spreading I put a large dis worm drive clip over the lower part of the legs once in position...I think a very HD zip type cable tie would also do it....the 1/2" wide type.

Nick. 

My Bantam video              https://www.you.....jpOFmzRZRI

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