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Early D shaped Speedometer (Speedo) dismantle (strip) How (not?) to er... "Guide"
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CharlieCeng
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June 26, 2014 - 7:22 am
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I found out the hard way as well!

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dimitris
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August 19, 2014 - 8:59 am
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I managed to make my odometer to work properly. I will just add some info, in case anyone needs..

As mentioned above, to remove the odometer wheels and spacers, first you must remove the metal plate next to the brass wheel (right side), that holds the shaft, by sliding in a small trail. Removing that, allows you to pust the shaft TO THE RIGHT (not to the left, becaue small spacers will fall in the trail and block the shaft)

Then you can start assemply again, pushing the shaft from Right to left, and adding components in the way..starting with the brass wheel. NOTE, the direction of this wheell, according to next picture. Edges must face down, so that little arm can push them upwards..(By the way, my problem was the stucked wheell bearing, on the base of that arm--wd40 and little force released it)

Ah, holding back that little spring arm, away from the brass whell will be important to allow you work. Little fixing tape will do the work, and you can tape it on the speedos body, down as you see the picture. dont worry the spring will survive from this..

20140731_221705_zpsd823c1ae.jpg

The correct order to reassemple, its like shown below, from right to left, starting from the brass wheel. The fisrt object on the right (secure disk) will be added last.

20140801_171931_zpsf5e3e328.jpg

Note, that you will need 2 spacers after the brass wheel. And, pay attention, to put correctly the next part (metal plate). The dent must be in same direction like the number wheels (they can only inserted in one way for proper reading)

when your insert the last numbered wheel to the left, the shaft will be 4-5 mm away from the other end (hole).

That is the tricky part, because then you have to fit that little spring in the shaft, together with 2 more spacers before and after it. I personally didn't manage to fit those 2 spacers, but it's not important, because the spring is strong enough to keep wheels in place. Now shaft can go in the other end hole.

Next step, is to add the safety metal plate (first object on the right). The U shape holder, goes around the brass wheel, and the little edge (dent) should point to the right side. Pressing down that plate you must aim for the cut (trail) on the shaft. This will secure it in place, and shaft will stay in place with all components.

When everything is back, you can put back the little "ratchet springs" shown in this picture (in first page of the topic)

Of course, it must be in good condition, for the odometer to works!!

 

The whole idea, how this thing works is :

The shaft with all components, tries to move, because of the movement of the brass wheell, pushed by that little arm (very small movment). The ratchet spring, is there to stop the numbered wheels from the movement. But, on every full round of the brass wheel, and the neighboored (left) metal plate which has a dent, just before the dent pass the rutchet spring, it raise it a few milimiters, allowing the wheel on it's left side to make a rotation one digit (wheel have dents after every digit - the metal plate only has one, for every full rotation). The dent on every numbered wheel, is little bigger after digit "9", so that it raises by it self little the rutchet plate, allowing the wheel to it's left to move by a digit....and so on..  :)

 

hope-that-helps

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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Hawaii50
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August 19, 2014 - 8:43 pm
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Ha! My cunning plan worked! Someone who actually may be able to get one of these back together has revealed themselves! I knew if I waited long enough...

Yes dimitriscy, I am sending you something!

exactlythank-youcheerscheerscheers

1950 D1 (Ex Hawaii!), 1936 Ariel 500 OHV, 1923 Raleigh Model 2 350 SV, Various bikes hidden from the Missus in sheds, under floorboards etc., etc., ...

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Hawaii50
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August 19, 2014 - 8:53 pm
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Actually I haven't given up hope for my poor little speedo, but having got Footman James off my back by installing a digital odometer/speedometer/time machine/aircraft carrier etc off e-bay for the princely sum of £2.99 including postage I felt able to relax somewhat (aided as always by several pints of Stella Artois) and went on holiday!

cool

I made up the bit about the aircraft carrier thoughwhistle

1950 D1 (Ex Hawaii!), 1936 Ariel 500 OHV, 1923 Raleigh Model 2 350 SV, Various bikes hidden from the Missus in sheds, under floorboards etc., etc., ...

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dimitris
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January 1, 2016 - 5:03 pm
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Happy new year to all.

Having some issues with the numbers on my speedometer of the D1 (more than half totally ruined), i had to do something more permanent. Till now, i had printed paper over the wheels, but being to thick, it was causing the counter to stuck..dunno
20140625_192132.jpg

So, i found a different solution, and i share here, maybe someone else will face the same problem during a rebuilt..

I bought from the net, some transparent, printable waterslide paper (A4 sheets), and i printed in a laserjet printer.
Before cutting into correct size, i sprayed with several layers of clear laquer, the same that i used over my paintjob, and decals.
I stripped the old numbers and paint from the counter wheels, to bare metal...and carefully applied the waterslides with the numbers.

Tricky point (trial and error helped on this) is that you must find the bare metal on the wheels, because the printer doesn't print the white areas (numbers), so the numbers are actually transparent. I tried to make them yellow, but it was not so thick to cover what is under the waterslide. So, actually the numbers will be silver..not whitedunno

20151230_132933_zpslzefffn6.png

20160101_174158_zpsocpgwqdv.png

20160101_174527_zpscd1cwct1.png

The new one, to the left.

20160101_180756_zps2rukke7k.png

The wheels have 10 dents on their right side, and one on their left..
And there is a small gap between numbers 5 and 6

I am uploading the picture here, in correct size, in case someone needs...

sptemplate2-copy.jpg

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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Maddog Leary
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January 2, 2016 - 12:01 am
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Nice one! I shall have to do this as the two speedos' I have the numbers are well and truly knackered!...  Mindyou will have to find a new needle, new dial decal and internal rachet as both have teeth missing....  Been quoted equivalent of 75 quid to have restored.

MD thumbs-up

Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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dimitris
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January 2, 2016 - 7:01 am
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I found the new face easily on the ebay (reproduction, but looks good). Luckily, the rest of my components where ok (not like the pictures from Hawai50).Very basic is that rachet spring...!

Good thing in this D-shape, is that the needle's axle is not so week, like the round smiths speedo (which brakes easily). But the needle itself does...

P.S. For the above tip with the counter numbers, you can also paint the wheel backround white before applying the decal..thumbs-up

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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JohnAli
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April 16, 2016 - 8:25 pm
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If anybody's interested....numbers for the wheels are available on EBay at the moment and I managed to get a replacement rachet spring from A Gagg & Sons. Speedo all good now, thanks to the excellent tutorialbow

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Number6
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January 29, 2020 - 9:16 am
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I think I'm going to take mine apart, just to make sure it's clean and for a bit of a lube job. smile

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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