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Early D shaped Speedometer (Speedo) dismantle (strip) How (not?) to er... "Guide"
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Hawaii50
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April 16, 2013 - 7:26 pm
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Oh well me hearties here goes, couldn't find much anywhere on the Smiths D shaped Chronometric Speedometer as in how to get it apart and back together again apart from an old (April 1992) Classic Motor Cycle article:

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Which avoids telling us how to dismantle the odometer part by telling us that these little gems never go wrong... Wrong! I've got one that's so wrong it beggars belief! Voila:

IMG_6510sml.jpg

Now anyone can see that something is rather wrong here, even Mr Jonathon Jones (who to be fair was writing over twenty years ago when this little gem had only been stood outside with it's broken glass for around thirty years, so no risk of rust attack then eh Mr Jones?!!) (Apart from that it's quite a good article - and he's probably a very nice chap...).

The subject of this topic was found in the box of bits that "came with" (i.e. they were found in the same rotting roofless shed as) my 1950 D1 plunger Bantam, so it's fairly likely to have suffered the same appalling neglect as the bike.

Step 1

First gather together some jeweller's screwdrivers, some ordinary screwdrivers i.e. one that's 1/8th" across the blade, two at around 3/16ths", a penknife, an old nail, some little jars, a hammer, magnifying glass and some WD40 and put some beers in the fridge for later:

IMG_6509sml.jpg 

Locate the three screws that hold the cover on:

IMG_6511sml.jpg

Here above,

IMG_6512sml.jpg

Here,

IMG_6513sml.jpg

and here. Clean them with anything sharp and pointy, and apply WD40 sparingly by pouring some into a small jar and using a screwdriver to drip a tiny amount onto the screw. Wait for the WD40 to do it's magic...(time for a beer)cheersThen undo the screws, after 50 odd years stood in the open they may be a bit tight...

Using the penknife lever the cover gently upwards:

IMG_6514sml.jpg

Until the cover can be pulled off, as above. At this point I wondered why Smiths had made the inner walls so high? The only reason I could imagine was to make it harder to dismantle. Grrrr.

Step 2

IMG_6515sml.jpg

We get to take a little peek inside! Do they have scorpions and deadly poisonous biting spiders in Hawaii (where bike was exported to in 1950) ? Time for another beer methinks...

To be Continued...

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1950 D1 (Ex Hawaii!), 1936 Ariel 500 OHV, 1923 Raleigh Model 2 350 SV, Various bikes hidden from the Missus in sheds, under floorboards etc., etc., ...

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Cornish Rooster
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April 16, 2013 - 7:54 pm
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Hmm interesting, need to have a peek at mine sometime as since the WH run the mileometer works but the actual speedo part has stopped after making a strange clicking sound for some time.

They are a clever piece of work these jobbies,  and called a "Chronometric" for a reason, that is they work a bit like a clock. Anyhow seems that yours has a few issues with the mileometer !! maybe you can go out for a 40 rust run ? Keep us posted.

Phil

BSA Bantam D1 "150" in use regularly often as general purpose transport, quite a few other bikes as well. Cornwall Area Rep. 

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kevin
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April 16, 2013 - 8:18 pm
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hey Hawaii50, I have never seen one in that state before if you fix it must get a medal. & of course the size of a frying pan

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Hawaii50
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April 16, 2013 - 8:40 pm
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Cornish Rooster said: "since the WH run..."

Maybe it's still frozen?

Placing in frying pan could be one way...

Actually I'm having second thoughts, look at the enlarged picture:

IMG_6515sml_Enlarged.jpg

Can you see the wee beasty lurking in the depths of the movement?

OOOOEEER!!!

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1950 D1 (Ex Hawaii!), 1936 Ariel 500 OHV, 1923 Raleigh Model 2 350 SV, Various bikes hidden from the Missus in sheds, under floorboards etc., etc., ...

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April 17, 2013 - 9:26 am
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Blimey ! I take it the next stage is to get hold of a needle puller to remove the needle, then remove the face and have a look at the internal gubbins ? Should be interesting.

BSA Bantam D1 "150" in use regularly often as general purpose transport, quite a few other bikes as well. Cornwall Area Rep. 

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Hawaii50
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April 17, 2013 - 7:10 pm
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Never heard of a needle puller... sounds a bit girlie to me sort of a demeaning term for a seamstress! No real Men (and Women) (the missus is sat beside me) use Screwdrivers!

But first what about the "Beasty in the Speedo"?

IMG_6515sml_Enl_Circ.jpg

Staring out of his den at me as if to say "What? Surely not another beer?"

But I must move bravely on... to the Screwdrivers! - They'll shift the little blighter!

Step 3

IMG_6516sml.jpg

This is the screw that holds the movement inside the case, old Mr Jones says they're on the inside but we've already heard from him so I shall ignore his advice and resort to Butchery! (just won bet I couldn't get Jones and Butchery in same sentence!) (Dad's Army)     (!)

Remove it, and check for any more.

IMG_6517sml.jpg

Watch out for the spring washer.

IMG_6518sml.jpg

This is one of the screws that holds the face plate on. Remove it and...IMG_6519sml.jpg

It's mate, which the eagle eyed will have spotted is already missing on our splendid example of "what not to buy if you ever want a working speedo ever again"

IMG_6520sml.jpg

Gently invert the whole mess and lift the inner case upwards, driving off any Beasties etc., with a warning that the next bit is not for the faint hearted, for HERE COME THE Screwdrivers!

IMG_6521sml.jpg

Here on the left is a 3/16th" flat blade Screwdriver, whilst on the right is one just a bit smaller, but only because I couldn't find two the same.

The theory here is that the faceplate should prevent damage to the needle by spreading the load, and yes I admit to stealing this idea from Mr Jones, who is in fact the originator of this form of speedometer butchery. (another bet won tee hee!)

The left screwdriver is rotated anti-clockwise, whilst simultaneously the right one is rotated clockwise, and hopefully the needle is released from the movement. In practice you will find that it takes a lot of force and steps must be taken to stop the movement being propelled as if by magic and hitting the poor speedo butcher - Mr Jones (another bet!), or me, smack on the nose!

IMG_6522sml.jpg

Go for it!

IMG_6523sml.jpg

Phewsh! - the more careful may want to place some kind of cushioning between screwdrivers and faceplate and avoid those nasty  little scratches.

Not bad going so far - bets won!

Time for some BEER!!! cheerscheerscheers

 

To be continued... 

1950 D1 (Ex Hawaii!), 1936 Ariel 500 OHV, 1923 Raleigh Model 2 350 SV, Various bikes hidden from the Missus in sheds, under floorboards etc., etc., ...

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Hawaii50
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April 18, 2013 - 7:50 pm
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Is anyone reading this? Hope not...

IMG_6524sml.jpg

Here's the needle safely removed from it's spindle, with faceplate immaculately preserved in former pristine perfection (i.e. yucky mess).

Here are some pictures for you to look at while I try and figure out what to do next...

IMG_6525sml.jpg

 

IMG_6527sml.jpg

 

IMG_6396sml.jpg

 

IMG_6528sml.jpg

Beer-1.jpg

 

IMG_6529sml.jpg

 

IMG_6530sml.jpg

I've worked out what needs to be done next:

It's Blues Night down the local pub so I'm off for a few beers! (I think better after a few beers, I think, or I think I think better after a few beers, after...zzzzzzzzzzz)

To Be Continued...

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1950 D1 (Ex Hawaii!), 1936 Ariel 500 OHV, 1923 Raleigh Model 2 350 SV, Various bikes hidden from the Missus in sheds, under floorboards etc., etc., ...

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April 18, 2013 - 8:24 pm
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Toad in the Hole plus Beer plus Pub plus fifty odd year old Chronometric Speedometer... what could possibly go wrong ???

BSA Bantam D1 "150" in use regularly often as general purpose transport, quite a few other bikes as well. Cornwall Area Rep. 

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Hawaii50
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April 18, 2013 - 9:20 pm
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What could go wrong?

Blues Night down the local...

Playing a C# when in key of E minor :-

"Okay for jazz old chap but not The Blues" oops

- Purists eh don't you love 'em! 

1950 D1 (Ex Hawaii!), 1936 Ariel 500 OHV, 1923 Raleigh Model 2 350 SV, Various bikes hidden from the Missus in sheds, under floorboards etc., etc., ...

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April 18, 2013 - 10:26 pm
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Hawaii50 said

Actually I'm having second thoughts, look at the enlarged picture:

IMG_6515sml_Enlarged.jpg

Can you see the wee beasty lurking in the depths of the movement?

OOOOEEER!!!

What was the wee beasty ... and did it have 2 more legs than an ant ... cant-look

 

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Hawaii50
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April 19, 2013 - 6:30 pm
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Good guess Kathy indeed the wee beasty had two more legs than an ant, same number as ant and then add number of legs of a  human, or twice number of a cat. One less than number of lives a cat has and it rhymes with "wider"!

Don't scroll down if suffering from arachnophobia....

 

 

That's unless you're an admin in which case - sorry - it's your job!

whistle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_6547sml_Wider.jpg

AAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRGGHH!!!!!! wowhelpout-a-here 

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April 19, 2013 - 7:02 pm
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rofl

 

It's OK I can clean this post up when you have finished and let that old incy wincey go

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Hawaii50
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April 19, 2013 - 7:47 pm
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Welcome back!

Whilst I pluck up the courage to address the piece of filthy detritus aka "the Movement" (bowel?) I've decided to find out how the mileage recorder section comes apart. I must admit that were I to know then what I know now, I would have done things somewhat differently. So I'm going to tell you what I should have done. You'll easily see what I did by looking at the picturesdohcant-lookoopssorry

First of all DON'T DO THIS:

IMG_6543_NO_sml.jpg

There is no need, instead look for this little clip:

Funny-little-clip-thingy.jpg

Its what the red arrow is pointing to, and is to the right of the number wheels. It holds the ratchet wheel (thats the brass thing with all the teeth) onto the spindle by sliding into a groove, as below:

Groove-for-clip.jpg

It MUST  be removed before attempting to remove the spindle by pulling the clip upwards at the small tang highlighted by the green arrow.

You will see that another groove runs the whole length of the spindle, and if like mine your spindle and wheels are just a mass of rust, and you do  need to use a drift to remove the spindle, you MUST  make sure that it will pass through the projections that locate within this groove, or you'll wreck the spacing washers and more...

Spacing_Washer.jpg

Above is one of the spacing washers, with the projection highlighted by the red arrow.

Ratchet_Spring_Screws.jpg 

Remove these two screws (more red arrows) and pull the ratchet spring and plate away.

IMG_6552sml.jpg

As you can see this one has already suffered previously.(don't think this was me - I didn't find any bits in the casingdunno)

IMG_6546sml.jpg

The number wheels can now be liberated and beer can now be poured!

cheers

1950 D1 (Ex Hawaii!), 1936 Ariel 500 OHV, 1923 Raleigh Model 2 350 SV, Various bikes hidden from the Missus in sheds, under floorboards etc., etc., ...

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Katj
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April 19, 2013 - 9:39 pm
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I now understand how the repair of these is so expensive

 

** Please log in to view ** is £28 a gallon 

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Sprung Chicken
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April 19, 2013 - 10:14 pm
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thumbs-up Good post as mine appears to have stopped working doh

Dougie;Glasgow ;Scotland.
1955 D1, 1970 B175

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Hawaii50
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April 20, 2013 - 12:09 pm
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"£28 a gallon"

One must look upon it as an investment.

crycheersfrowncheerssmilecheerslaughcheerszzzz 

1950 D1 (Ex Hawaii!), 1936 Ariel 500 OHV, 1923 Raleigh Model 2 350 SV, Various bikes hidden from the Missus in sheds, under floorboards etc., etc., ...

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Hawaii50
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April 24, 2013 - 7:26 pm
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Welcome back!

Here is a better picture of the locating washer wotsit:

IMG_6567sml-1.jpg

The red arrow shows the locating tab.

IMG_6565sml-1.jpg

Which fits into the little hole pointed to by yet another red arrow...

Of course you can't fit it back together like this, the toothed brass wheel has to go on the shaft first, along with all the number wheels and washers etc.

IMG_6568sml.jpg

Above is the other side of the locating washer, which shows the locating tab off to even better effect...

Stella-Beheaded-1.jpg

And above is how to extract every last drop of beer from the can, which at £28 per gallon there's NO WAY I'm going to waste any! This has however given me an idea...

IMG_6573sml.jpg

After cutting the top off and draining the last few wonderful drops it occurred to me that this may be the perfect way of recycling the can! Although I'm sure all the metallurgists out there will moan about different metals reacting and coefficients of elasticity etc etc I may be just daft enough to contemplate giving it a try! Next to the off-cut of can is the battered remnant of the ratchet spring, which I intend to (perhaps) re-manufacture using the afore mentioned off-cut of beer tinny!

In the mean time I'm off to the pub, I will leave you with a picture of life evolving from a chronometric speedo movement inside a jar of petrol...

IMG_6554sml.jpg

I've sent a copy to David Attenborough and Professor Brian Cox.

Cheers!

cheerscheerscheers

1950 D1 (Ex Hawaii!), 1936 Ariel 500 OHV, 1923 Raleigh Model 2 350 SV, Various bikes hidden from the Missus in sheds, under floorboards etc., etc., ...

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April 24, 2013 - 8:01 pm
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I commend your efforts to be environmentally friendly ... recycling helps to save the planet as you well know ... and your single minded efforts to save water by drinking beer is highly recommended ... in fact I think I shall suggest to HID that we go do the same ... and of course we will also be supporting local business and saving carbon miles by drinking a pint or two of 'English Oak' from our local brewery ... cheers cheerscheerscheerscheerscheers

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April 25, 2013 - 6:40 pm
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Indeed I am an ardent recycler, even the beer gets recycled and does the garden good! ("end" <tee hee!> product is high in nitrogen!)

Am I correct in thinking that "English Oak" is brewed by the "Mighty Oak Brewery"?, who obviously endorse this method of recycling as promoted by their "Yellow Snow" ale?

Yellow-Snow.jpg

I know it's a bit early but I'm thirsty so: cheerslove-itcheerslove-it - it's never too early to save the planet!  

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April 25, 2013 - 9:01 pm
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You are correct in your thinking ....

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