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Maddogs 1956 D3 Swing-Arm Budget Restoration
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Maddog Leary
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December 27, 2015 - 11:18 pm
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Dookie said
Oh can you keep us posted on the fork springs? I may need some too. Where have you ordered them from?

OZ Bantams had them listed, have requested a communication when they get more in.

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Any hoo after the success of getting the stand and foot rests done.  I had a go at the brake plates and ended up with quite a nice job, shame the camera nadgered up on the shot of the rear plate.

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MD cheers

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Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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Bournemouth Bantams
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December 28, 2015 - 11:47 pm
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Dookie said
Oh can you keep us posted on the fork springs? I may need some too. Where have you ordered them from?

Hi Dookie

I have a couple of new sets in stock £30.00 plus delivery if you need some.

How was Wickham, Busy? 

Howard

Supplier and stockist of Bantam spares.

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Derek's D5
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December 29, 2015 - 8:13 am
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Really Howard? For the D5 forks? From memory I think these are quite long springs. Will PM you about those.

Boxing Day was crazy. I couldn't get parked up for ages, and it was the busiest I've seen it. Photos are up on my post.

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Bournemouth Bantams
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December 29, 2015 - 5:49 pm
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Hi Dookie

The springs I have are listed by the manufacturer as being suitable for the both the D1 and D3 part number 90-5060 that number is specific to the D1 the D3 and D5 part number is 90-5078. the springs have a free length of 31 cm.

I am a little confused as I am not sure of the difference between the two if any, I always thought the springs were identical from the D1 to the D5. All the sets of forks I have, both D1 and D3 have the same length spring, I don't have any that I can say a defiantly D5. Another as yet unexplained anomaly.

"H"

Supplier and stockist of Bantam spares.

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Derek's D5
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December 29, 2015 - 6:12 pm
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Don't the fork legs get thicker from the D1 to the D3 and D5? Of course the springs might, or might not get thicker too. Right now I don't feel like dismantling my forks to find out! But maybe there's a resident expert...

sorry MD, hijacked your rebuild!

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Bournemouth Bantams
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December 29, 2015 - 6:26 pm
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Dookie said
Don't the fork legs get thicker from the D1 to the D3 and D5? Of course the springs might, or might not get thicker too. Right now I don't feel like dismantling my forks to find out! But maybe there's a resident expert...

sorry MD, hijacked your rebuild!

Forks are thicker on the 3 and 5 but the spring dia is the same, it is only the upper section of the outer tube that is a larger dia.

The upper and lower fixing and the bearings are all the same.

"H"

Supplier and stockist of Bantam spares.

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Maddog Leary
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March 20, 2016 - 6:20 am
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Again! this blasted bike does not want to be put back together....  Having got a lovely finish on the fork legs the bottom yoke wouldn't open enough to let them pass through without damage...  Totally stuffed the paint on them...  No other option other than to re-strip and start again.  Apologies to the purists out there; but! the only way I could do this was to build the bottom yoke and paint the legs in situ.....

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This bloomin bike is really trying my patience.......  If you hear an explosion or dull thud, you know it's me trying to fit the top head stock/bearings etc..Lol

MD dohdoh

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Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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sunny
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March 20, 2016 - 1:39 pm
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hi  Md   your  bottom  yoke   shoud  have  headed  bolts  you  tack out  completly   not  studs         so  you  cam  open  the  slots  beter    and  almost  NO paint   at  the  top  of  each  leg    i  use   a   good  fiting  screwdriver   to  open  the  slot  &  one   leg  of  a  hard  wooden   close peg   to  keep  it open  to  fit  ,,,   the   tops  of   each  legs  dont  seem  to  a   taper   like   d5

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Maddog Leary
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March 20, 2016 - 9:25 pm
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I did take the studs out and using a large long handled industrial flat screwdriver tried moving the slots open to no avail (again my beastie being difficult!) didn't want to get overly 'physical' with it as I have seen stems break.  There are tapered inserts that go into the top of the legs which the top stock affixes to.

Oh the vagaries of Bantam ownership dunno

MD  cheers

Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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nigelD1
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March 21, 2016 - 11:39 am
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I think the tapered inserts should be braised to the top of the fork legs…. No doubt spoiling your paint work again.

Oh the vagaries of Bantam ownership... indeed.  dunno

cheers

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Maddog Leary
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March 22, 2016 - 7:35 am
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nigelD1 said
I think the tapered inserts should be braised to the top of the fork legs…. No doubt spoiling your paint work again.

Oh the vagaries of Bantam ownership... indeed.  dunno

cheers

They weren't braised in when I took them apart, just a very tight fit.  We shall see.  Its not like I'm going to be riding excessive milage and they didn't budge the first time round when Dad and I bodged her together in the eighties.  Fingers crossed fingers-crossed

MD cheers

Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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sunny
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March 22, 2016 - 8:47 am
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well   MD   looks  like  you  know  wot  your  doing   very  well   done     iv  not come  across   any  breized  fork  tops  only   braized   top  yoks   i  woud  not  use  anyway  unless  a  museum   cycle

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BSAdave
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March 22, 2016 - 9:54 am
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On my 49 they were not braised in, I know it is a bit late but I did exactly the same thing as you MD and ruined the paint , so i just fitted them then sanded them back and repainted them in position, and i will be doing the same on the new rebuild as i don't want to brake the yoke. I'm sure you can open them enough to slid them in but it just don't feel right.

You will get there in the end,

A man that makes no mistakes has not done any work .

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Maddog Leary
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March 22, 2016 - 12:24 pm
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BSAdave said
On my 49 they were not braised in, I know it is a bit late but I did exactly the same thing as you MD and ruined the paint , so i just fitted them then sanded them back and repainted them in position, and i will be doing the same on the new rebuild as i don't want to brake the yoke. I'm sure you can open them enough to slid them in but it just don't feel right.

You will get there in the end,

A man that makes no mistakes has not done any work .

In that case Dave, if we learn by our mistakes, then I must be getting an unbelievable education!!! roflroflrofl 

MD cheers

Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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Maddog Leary
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March 27, 2016 - 9:04 am
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Finally some progress! Did a deal with my brain Homer Simpson style...  (Ok brain, Lets work out the rear axle arrangement and I will go back to slowly killing you with alcohol and nicotine!)....  Think I got it right, not locking and the speedometer drive spindle is moving when the wheel rotates.  Go a bit flustered at that and decided to 'dry fit' the rear wheel and place her down on her new stand.  First time in 25 yrs or so she has stood on her stand.  Apart from a couple of paint chips and grease marks all over the new paint work, reasonably content....  Swear jar lost out today, Top management is a bit irked as she offered to 'interpret' the diagram for me (in her parlance 'it can't be that difficult')...... LOL (no offence Bantam ladies)....  Mind you I am feeling the effects of wrestling the tyre back on the rim....  On my knees for more than an hour.....

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At least shes' starting to look like a bike now! Will have to revisit the back axle, just to double check.....

Onwards and .....  who knows what's next.

MD cheers

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Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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BSAdave
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March 27, 2016 - 9:30 am
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shiny shiny bike, getting there MD. Keep it up.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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nigelD1
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March 27, 2016 - 10:52 am
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Maddog Leary said

nigelD1 said
I think the tapered inserts should be braised to the top of the fork legs…. No doubt spoiling your paint work again.

Oh the vagaries of Bantam ownership... indeed.  dunno

cheers

They weren't braised in when I took them apart, just a very tight fit.  We shall see.  Its not like I'm going to be riding excessive milage and they didn't budge the first time round when Dad and I bodged her together in the eighties.  Fingers crossed fingers-crossed

MD cheers

I only mentioned because one of the tops on mine came apart and it look like it was originally brasied.

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If the general opinion is that they were just pushed in, then I will put it back together and carry on.

Saves the problem of getting it hot enough to stick together properly

Thanks

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Maddog Leary
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March 27, 2016 - 11:02 am
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BSAdave said
shiny shiny bike, getting there MD. Keep it up.

Don't look too close Dave! LOL.......

Nigel,

Don't really know.  Like I said there was no sign of braising, now the head stock is back together and bolted up there is no sign of movement (did hit several times with large heavy rubber mallet to make sure)....  Did have to freeze the inserts to get them to fit the fork outers properly, so maybe that slight shrinkage tolerance is enough to make them 'hold' at room temperature.

MD dunno

Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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Hans Kreuzen
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March 27, 2016 - 11:31 am
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Hi MD

Your Bantam is starting to come alive and is looking really good, I know how rewarding it is, to get the old girl back on it's feet again, It a big step forward.

Keep up the good workclap

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Bournemouth Bantams
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March 27, 2016 - 11:42 am
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Hi MD

The rear wheel speedo drive often locks up due to its inner face touching the spokes when you tighten up the outer nut, ensure the loose 1/2" spacer is there (inside the drive). I have in the past had to add washers to pack out the spacer to allow clearance between the spokes and the back face of the drive.

Howard 

Supplier and stockist of Bantam spares.

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