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Ibayorkie's D1
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flintdog
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December 5, 2017 - 2:43 pm
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it wont have tryed them only one that works is the brown atom no points cam or condenser

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mike p5xbx
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December 5, 2017 - 4:31 pm
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Rooster ignitions who used to sell these specifically said they must be used with the points
as they are not suitable for engines with multiple magnet flywheels
so only a replacement condenser

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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harleydynaglide0149
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December 5, 2017 - 7:15 pm
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the only thing i can see that is missing is a small piece of plastic that is used to insulation on the back of the unit.It is a rooster booster junior.It did not work on my 1951 d1 (no battery )

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Lone Wolf
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December 5, 2017 - 9:22 pm
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Piquet said
There is a much smaller unit available from ** Please log in to view **  

Wotcha.

Yep - fitted one on my D14  . . . . I was planning on running it "back to back" with the points only setup on my B175 . . . but I sold the B175.

Funnily enough, all my other bikes ( bar one ) have got normal points and I've never had a problem ignition-wise.

 

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^..^

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Piquet
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December 5, 2017 - 10:54 pm
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I don't know the bolt size but perhaps you might get an idea here

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here

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here

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or here

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I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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lbayorkie
Otley, West Yorkshire
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December 6, 2017 - 1:33 pm
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Thanks for going to all this trouble. Just out of interest is there a bolt diameter which is used commonly on Bantams? It would make sense to use as many of same size as possible- but is that asking too much of 1940' engineering practices?

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lbayorkie
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January 3, 2018 - 6:23 pm
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Hi. I have chance of a filler cap for my 1950 D1, but it doesnt have the oil measure attached. I was just wondering how easy its likely to be to swap the one my existing filler cap. Thanks. Alan.

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dimitris
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January 4, 2018 - 10:57 am
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Hi.

If i am not mistaken, the brass filler is pressed fit on the cap, in specific press points.  It should come of if you apply a certain amount of force...

Applying some heat on the filler to expand, might help..

I am sure you will have also other opinions, from guys with more expertise..

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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lbayorkie
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January 4, 2018 - 1:07 pm
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Thanks. Annoyingly I dont have access to mine to check its construction, hence the question. Alan

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dimitris
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January 5, 2018 - 5:52 am
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Mmm...I think i got your question little wrong. Do you mean you have the tank cap and also the brass measuring part, but its not marked to know quantities???

I answered based to what i have...and its just a brass cube over the cap, with no marking. I thought you were missing the whole brass part...

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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lbayorkie
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February 14, 2018 - 2:16 pm
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I never really got to the bottom of how to fit my D1 Gear Indicator.

Could someone please let me know how to get to the spline onto which the indicator fits? I presume some degree of dismantling the engine is required, possibly removal of the generator?

Its really bugging me!

 

Alan

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Mistgreen53
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February 20, 2018 - 8:24 pm
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lbayorkie said
I never really got to the bottom of how to fit my D1 Gear Indicator.

Could someone please let me know how to get to the spline onto which the indicator fits? I presume some degree of dismantling the engine is required, possibly removal of the generator?

Its really bugging me!

 

Alan  

Hi Alan. Am in the process of stripping my D1 and have found a gear indicator fitted (it had slipped down out of sight) It looks as though there should be enough room to fit the indicator onto the splined shaft from the rear of the casing (see photos) When I offered the chain guard up I had to bend out the pointer because the guard interfered with it. The movement of the indicator is equal to the markings of the transfer. Could be best to put the transfer on the side of the guard rather than on top!!  Unless the arm I've got is a pattern and not original It's way short.  HTH

Graham[Permission to view this image is denied]
[Permission to view this image is denied]

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 D1 '59 on the road.  D1 '55 undergoing restoration. D1 '53 on the back-burner.

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lbayorkie
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February 21, 2018 - 6:22 pm
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Thanks very much for the advice. The images are particularly helpful. I will dig mine out and let you know how long it is. It actually looks the same as yours, with the same slightly raised profile in the middle. Alan

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lbayorkie
Otley, West Yorkshire
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February 21, 2018 - 8:40 pm
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[Permission to view this image is denied]
q

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Mistgreen53
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February 21, 2018 - 10:46 pm
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[Permission to view this image is denied]
Hi Alan. Just measured the indicator on mine and the length is the same.  With chain guard attached and third gear selected. Graham

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 D1 '59 on the road.  D1 '55 undergoing restoration. D1 '53 on the back-burner.

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lbayorkie
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February 22, 2018 - 7:44 am
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your problem has been highlighted in a previous post, but i cant find it. i think the solution was to push the guard downwards closer to the chain.

dont know about u but i find search function basic and hard to use. i will keep looking for you though.

alan

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Piquet
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February 22, 2018 - 8:49 am
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This topic?

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I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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lbayorkie
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February 22, 2018 - 2:21 pm
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Perfect, just what I was looking for for Graham.

Thanks for your help

Alan

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Mistgreen53
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February 22, 2018 - 4:43 pm
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Hi, The bike I was referring to is a D1 plunger and NOT a Rigid. That's another problem for me to solve but I'm in no great hurry. Finish work in 6 weeks so plenty of time!!zzzzcheers

Graham

 D1 '59 on the road.  D1 '55 undergoing restoration. D1 '53 on the back-burner.

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lbayorkie
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March 11, 2018 - 7:33 pm
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I purchased a 1950 D1 some months ago which had been completely re-built. I have recently been getting it ready to put back on the road but I have noticed a lot of play in the rear wheel. It definitely something to do with the rear axle and I assume as the wheel has been re built its probably something to do with the way it was re-assembled rather than individual components. Its the speedo side where all the play is- I can wiggle the speedo drive around and theres play of about 5mm.

I think Im going to have to take the back wheel off but I always prefer to know roughly what Im looking for, so if anyone has any ideas they will be gratefully accepted.

I took a couple of pictures but cant work out how to attach them!

 

Thanks

Alan

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