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Hans, 1949 D1 survivor
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neddyo
Adelaide, Australia
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February 19, 2018 - 11:50 pm
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Going back to earlier questions, the straightening jig worked out

and while not perfect they turned to give the correct stearing geometry

and past everthing looked ok.

If only doing one frame probably over top in terms of how much time and effort.

I'm retired so I need things to stop me watching the mid day movie.

If the cups are tight I leave them in, on the bar there are brass cones

that are a sliding fit and tight in the cups.

I dont use the bar for pulling the head bracket back out but use it to

take the twist out of the frame.

To do this I bolt the frame down to the floor using loxins and all thread.

With a small jack and a spirit level it's quite an easy job.

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Hans Kreuzen
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February 20, 2018 - 7:33 am
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Hi Nick

The last 2 posts make a lot of sense, and they are a great help with lot's of information on how to go about it all.

I do under stand your explanation regarding the sliding brass cone type fitting in the head stock, great idea and I would like to leave the cups in the head stock if I can.

I will leave the bracing plate in the frame in place first, while I am taking the twist out of the head stock.

I work 10 to 12 hours a day, so it may take me a little while to get around to straightening the frame, but I will definitely do it myself, The Bantams are a hobby I enjoy very much and my spare time is limited, I tinker on them when I can, ha ha.

Thanks Sooooooooooooo Much Nick

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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neddyo
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February 22, 2018 - 4:25 am
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Details of the bar that goes through the head bracket, it has a thread tapped in the end for

holding the brass cone into the top cup and a sliding clamp for holding the bottom cone.

I use this bar for twist corrections and checking the rake angle,

it's about 21 inches long and 1 1/4 inches in diameter

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neddyo
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February 22, 2018 - 4:33 am
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Thinking about your limited time for making a straightening jig it's probably

better to look for a donor frame and do a cut and shut, all you then need is the

bar and cones.

Good luck with it,

Cheers, Nick.

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Hans Kreuzen
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February 22, 2018 - 8:24 am
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Thanks for the bar picture Nick, Is the bar made out of solid steel or a heavy wall hollow tube?

As for the time it takes to make a jig, well with your pictures it should not take that long, so I will make a jig....Remember that I have a rare 1948 frame that needs straitening as well.

Below are some pictures of a genuine 1948 frame that I bought at a swap meet, This one will need to  be fixed as well, It looks like somebody already had a go at welding and bending.[Permission to view this image is denied]
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1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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neddyo
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February 22, 2018 - 6:35 pm
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I like the 48 frame, easy repair wwith a new bracing.

I always wanted a first model D1 with the head light switch on the

handle bars and the exhaust pipe under the foot rest.

I mist one at a local swap meet by about 5 minutes, the guy

ahead of me paid $700 for a complete original bike, boo hoo,

I hope he maid a nice job of it.

I got the bug to try and have every model Bantam about 30 years ago,

I'm not going to make it through age (82) lack of space and money.,

but I'm still in love with the ones I have got.

Nick.

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neddyo
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February 22, 2018 - 6:41 pm
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The bar is solid although heavy tubing would by ok, but

you would need to weld a piece in the end for a thread.

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Hans Kreuzen
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February 22, 2018 - 8:08 pm
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neddyo said
The bar is solid although heavy tubing would by ok, but

you would need to weld a piece in the end for a thread.  

Yes I understand, Thanks

Wow, 82 years old, good on you, we have quit a few well over 80 members in our club that ride with me on club runs.

I am lucky that you are willing to pass on your knowledge, it will not only help me, but other members in this forum as well. 

Thanks Nick

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Hans Kreuzen
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February 22, 2018 - 8:35 pm
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Another question Nick, regarding the main front box tube that is pushed by the porter power.

Where is the top of the box tubing FIXED to and PIVOT from, did you mount the top Bantam yolk/ fork plate? or is it fixed to the solid tube yo made?

It's a bit hard to see in the picture.

Thanks, Hans

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1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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neddyo
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February 22, 2018 - 9:44 pm
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I'll take a detailed image with the front square tube fitted

to the bracket (lug)

I did attach the square tube to the bar for the first frame

I did but found it stretched the lug and loosened the cups.

After that I made rings to go around the lugs in lign

with the cups. these rings a split and can be clamped

up tight, from the clamp bolts are links joining

the rings to the square tube.

The top square tube is held to the lug by links

that bolt to the front petrol tank mounting points.

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mike p5xbx
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February 22, 2018 - 11:04 pm
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I see in post 23 you are also into clock repairs, one extreme to another laugh

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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neddyo
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February 23, 2018 - 1:10 am
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I have always been intrigued by chronometric speedo's but never been

game enough to pull one apart. I have now made a puller to remove

the needle, probably end in tears but what the heck.

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neddyo
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February 23, 2018 - 1:23 am
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If you are thinking of dismantling a chronometric speedo its probably

best not to read this article , but if you want a good read on the subject

this will get your brain ticking over.

Google this  ** Please log in to view **

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neddyo
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February 23, 2018 - 11:51 pm
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The images are pretty much self explanatory,

the all thread was used before I bought a portapower

and post 16 shows a good view of the bits and pieces

that go with the square tubes.

Some are used to push on the Bantam frame tubes and some are used pull

on the tubes. I found I needed these to stop the frame bending the wrong way.[Permission to view this image is denied]
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neddyo
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February 24, 2018 - 1:09 am
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A bit more detail from post 16

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Hans Kreuzen
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February 24, 2018 - 6:27 am
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The pictures are great Nick, I explains everything I need to know, I can't wait to start building the jig and try it out.

I hope to do some more work on the Bantam tomorrow.

Thanks heaps for all your input. 

Hansthumbs-up

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Hans Kreuzen
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March 17, 2018 - 7:50 am
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I finished stripping all the brushed on house paint on the guards today and i also turned the front wheel around, everything is just loosely bolted or sitting in place, ready for the big strip down.

Can't wait to start straightening  the frame and making the jig, using the great pictures from Nick.[Permission to view this image is denied]
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1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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BSAdave
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March 17, 2018 - 9:16 am
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That looks much better, a coat of clear and it will be good to go. thumbs-up

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Blue Heeler
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March 17, 2018 - 11:47 am
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Great work Hans.I do love these Rigids.Hope one day to get a Comp model,but expect they`re as rare as rocking-horse do-dos.

My Rigid doesn`t have the bracket in the rear frame loop,but my plunger Bantams have a similar arrangement.Looking at your bike,what with the bracket holes for pillion footrests and looking at the squash in the rear carrier/stays etc,looks like it`s perhaps had a pad fitted and carried a passenger at some time....or was used to lug heavy items around?

Nick`s straightening work is brilliant,I`m going to nick(no pun intended),some of his ideas and add them to my plans,when I find time to straighten the bent plunger D1 frame I have kicking around.

Blue

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Hans Kreuzen
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March 17, 2018 - 10:20 pm
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Hi Blue, the pillion foot rest brackets look home made and just clamps on to the frame and the rear guard stay bars are home made out of flat bar and are to long, this is why the front of the rear guard was never bolted to the frame just behind the engine mount, maybe that's why the luggage rack is bend as well.

The front guard mounting holes have been filed out 1/2" to make the guard just clear the bend frame and down pipe, I have now panel beated the big dents out of the back and it won't fit anymore now.

Dave, I agree, It looks better in green, but there is not much left, there is more bare metal but I do like the look of it.

I can't wait to ride it, the seat is very worn and if you touch it you turn black, I may have to put a clear cover over it or replace it with a new one, NOOOOOO, haha.

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1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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