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Haddy's D3 project
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Blue Heeler
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April 4, 2018 - 11:59 am
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Hello Haddy,

We`ll get you sorted.

Probably a silly question,but did you supply your engine number when you ordered the parts...or just a year?

I`ve looked back through your thread,but photos aren`t close-up enough for me.

D1 crankcase bearing-seal positioning and lube application altered over the D1 production run.I have crankcases from `49 to `63,there are some big differences that made me scratch my head back when I started rebuilding the little blighters.Last D1 engine I rebuilt was c15 yrs ago,but I can soon reacquaint myself with the various set-ups for that model. 

Can you either put your engine number up here or send it via PM? ,then I can pull out a set of crankcases that matches the run yours came from.Also provide photos of your seal kit...did it come shrink-wrapped on cardboard with the years defined.

I use a very small fine flat file to remove material from the ring ends...trying to keep the ends parallel....and of course not break them!

If your rings are oversize and you have to compress them too much to put in the standard bore,you could end up with a bust ring due to too much tension....remember what they`re made of...they`re not chrome rings.Wish they were,I remember mucking about bending Elsie rings to fit as a wrist bangle back when I owned and tuned a gaggle of them.

Maybe you could make up a contraption with cutaways,say 2 blocks of wood with ring carefully clamped between them,and use a 1mm slitting disc to very gingerly cut an excess off? 

Blue

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cocorico
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April 4, 2018 - 12:44 pm
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You might find some useful info on my D3 rebuild, it's on Photobucket. Edit, removed the link, I forgot you were using a D1 engine block.

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Haddy
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April 4, 2018 - 1:59 pm
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Hello Blue

Engine number DD5267.

I rang a guy that supplied NOS 125 barrell he said the seal goes where i thought and can supply one. Very knowledgable  his family have ran a Brit bike shop since 1930. 

The seals and bearings were supplied loose.

i only needed the two gearbox bearings just as well the others are wrong. The OZ Bantam shop they are not answering my emails.

Iput a mill file in the ring gap and squezed and filed you were right it doesnt take much.one is now 10 thou the other about 14.

I spent all arvo working the brand new nut on the drive end of the crank with valve grinding paste. Its quite good now nice and firm.

I put the smaller oil seal LHS timing side it didnt want to go in but its in hope its ok.

Is there any trick to getting them in

haddy

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Blue Heeler
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April 4, 2018 - 4:37 pm
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Sounds like you`re on your way then,that`s good.

Let me know if you need anything else checking,I can soon dig out a crankcase now I know the year..

That engine number links to 1956 manufacture,from the site I checked it with.

If I remember correctly from what you were saying before,seems like whoever had the engine down before, decided that inner r/h bearing needed lubing in a different way 🙂

So you`re one thou and five thou over with your ring gaps then...from the manual`s 0.009"..... it`ll run fine.

I`m sure your l/h seal will be ok if it`s in square and the right way around,haha.You`ll`ve checked it on the crank no doubt.They are tight in the housing,I`ve found.I usually either knock or press them in with a socket.

That`s a real old-timers way of sorting your nut issue out,I reckon I`ve seen that in a 1920`s motorcycle workshop manual.

Onward and forward eh...making good progress.

Blue

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Haddy
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April 5, 2018 - 11:04 am
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Still waiting for a seal.So i put the new nuts on the front wheel and bolted her up the forks a skew wiff Oh Dear. The bushes are gone but still rideable. I have tapped new bolts ror the lower clamps and there solid. so i slackened them and pulled in it in and retightened them it was an improvement but not solid.I tried the new saet on bolted the springs on. They dont spring you could use 1 1/2 bar would be the same. The seat feel is the esence of the bantam.I had them before on a c11 no good got the old ones chromed $60.They make a big difference. A pic didnt like it[Permission to view this image is denied]
of my b40 lot of work for no result

haddy

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Haddy
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April 5, 2018 - 11:29 am
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cocorico
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April 5, 2018 - 11:33 am
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Nice. I like 350s, they seem to be a good compromize to me. Not too heavy, fast enough for the real world and not too sought-after (except for & by old Brits)

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Haddy
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April 5, 2018 - 1:27 pm
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Bonswar Corico

 

that b40 was the worst bike they vibrate across the floor leaving marks on the cincrete.At there best undesirable.

A very nice 350 is a AJS 16 M

haddy

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cocorico
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April 5, 2018 - 4:25 pm
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Haddy said
Bonswar Corico

...that b40 was the worst bike they vibrate across the floor leaving marks on the cincrete.At there best undesirable.

haddy  

Ah well, as they say 'one man's meat is another man's poisson'...fishingwink

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Blue Heeler
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April 5, 2018 - 10:27 pm
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Sounds like you had a rough runner there Haddy,I always found them ok,cheap&cheerful shall we say.Hope your Bantam is smooth enough for you 🙂

Excuse me as I go into story mode now...

A Hell`s Angel in my class at Tech had a rough&ready B40 Army he`d turn up on sometimes,I remember him fiddling with the distributor to get it running sometimes.I think it was always loose.In the bike shed that I could see from the main classroom we used,I could also see teachers very original 3ta Bathtub,my Bantam and two stunning Commando Fastbacks.It`s one of those Nortons I wanted! Teach and myself got the most stick over our bikes.Most people respect the humble Bantam now,but they didn`t back then.I remember turning up on my Bantam at St Michael`s Motors as it was then in Stamford,Honda dealers,for an MOT,and Percy the mechanic rushed out with a huge drip-tray.Very funny I laughed,my bikes don`t leak oil !

Bumped into a chap on a walk the other day,somehow he worked out I rode bikes....I hadn`t realised the limp showed.He said that after owning dozens of bikes,coming up through all the Brits,European,US bikes and then going to Classics,he got fed up with riding around in circles waiting to break down.By that time I`d already suggested he got a Bantam or Cub,which brought forth a deluge of derision in an amusing deadpan manner,my smile growing more as he went on,before I interrupted and explained I had Bantams and Cubs..then he went straight into apology mode.....  Otherwise a perfectly decent bloke 🙂

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Haddy
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April 12, 2018 - 1:55 pm
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got the oil seal today the rhs crank seal.Waighting 7 days so rushed it .I made a puller with thread bar two flat plated and a piece of 40mm plastic conduit. then i put in the crank, talk about end float, no floating here. I used the drive sprocket and nut to pull it in then put a big washer behind it to bring it home. Lucky i fixer the thread. The oil sael was a little proud of the surface but its clear so lm glad.

 

i have some new foot rest rubbers but the hole in them is miles to big for the shaft, do you have to pack them out .

haddy

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Blue Heeler
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April 12, 2018 - 2:19 pm
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Hi Haddy,

Not an uncommon problem.If it`s not too much slack,then I`ve used electrical tape wound around the spacer tubes.

If you provide measurements for rubber internal dia and footrest bar spacer external,I can compare with a Plunger bike I have down at the moment.

If it`s a mile of a difference then either the footrest bar spacers are the wrong ones or the rubbers are.

 

Well done on the seal,a little bit proud is normal,as long as it`s the right way around and lip has enough surface area on the smooth boss it`s running on.

I was looking at a top Bantam racer`s engine online and was surprised to see only one bearing used on the primary side....but I suppose one bearing each side became the norm with modern 2-stroke singles,and with some vintage ones I`ve worked on too.

Blue

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Haddy
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April 14, 2018 - 7:58 am
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Hello

Got the cases back together no problem. Trial fitting the barrell on its a tight fit over the studs and even tighter going into the case flange.

It seems to difficult to me, cant anything go easily on this bike.Tapped it home with a block of wood but theres 1mm gap around base flange.[Permission to view this image is denied]

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sunny
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April 14, 2018 - 8:44 am
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hi  Haddy  you  are doing  a grand  job      well  done      

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Blue Heeler
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April 14, 2018 - 10:36 am
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Looking really good Haddy.

Hopefully she`ll pull down with the nuts without any bother,if not you`ll have to remove barrel,clean rust off studs and run a round file through the stud holes where the rust and paint clog up.

Another thing that can happen is alloy pushes up&out when securing studs into crankcase,as the shoulder locks into place after all thread is in place.Radiusing the four holes slightly before wanging the studs down works for me.I fit threadlock too.I really don`t like my studs coming back out when I undo the cyl head nuts.

Also if the base gasket is a tight fit over the studs,these alloy lumps can be accentuated.

Hopefully you wont have to lift the barrel again...and yes the flange can be a tight fit in the crankcase mouth on some of them,but cleaning rust and burrs off studs and rust and paint from cylinder stud holes gives a bit more wriggle-room to the job. 

Blue

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ZZ
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April 14, 2018 - 11:03 am
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And I reckon I read somewhere you should loosen the two top crankcase bolts when sliding the cylinder on. Re-torque after the cylinder is bolted down. Looks like you have some new allen heads in the cases.

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Blue Heeler
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April 14, 2018 - 11:08 am
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You`re spot on there,ZZ.

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Haddy
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April 14, 2018 - 12:38 pm
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everything is clean and pollished. The top two screws are eased off.

Ill take it off tomorrow and investigate. Try on an old barrell. I thpught the barrell was NOS but if its Indian could be a problem.

haddy

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cocorico
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April 14, 2018 - 1:21 pm
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And don't forget, she's 60+ and entitled to some stiff joints here and there. old

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Haddy
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April 15, 2018 - 6:10 am
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Got it fitting as it should. There was slight lip in the corner of the barrell flange (should heave taken pic) so i shamfered the alloy casing a little mare than it was didnt require much that got it sitting flush. With the studs out it slipped in so on close inspection of the studs two of them had been bent at the base of the thread then straightened creating a dog leg hard to see. One was worse than the other so i replaced it with the only other spare i had.

The fit was now acceptable so then the fun part and it turns over quite snuggly using the primary sprocket by hand.

haddy[Permission to view this image is denied]

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