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Haddy's D3 project
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Blue Heeler
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March 21, 2018 - 10:17 am
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Hi Haddy,

From what I can see in the photo,that is the standard procedure for fitting cover plates.I sometimes leave them off,last D1 I stripped and rebuilt had none,it was ported and ran really well!

If there is crud and rust behind them,then centrifugal force may deposit that in your crankcases when you strike her up...or are they well-sealed and soundly in place.

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The only thing I would do differently to SBD,would be support the flywheel I`m working on with a solid plate between the flywheels whilst I was banging away......not risk knocking the crank out of true.It does happen.

BSA riveted the flywheel plates on with the later D14 motors,as I found to my cost on one bike.The loose rivets machined out the crankcase...nice!

Blue

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Haddy
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March 21, 2018 - 11:30 am
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hello blue

yes watched him in his crowded work shop saved the best bits. I will study the cover plate closely.          

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Haddy
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March 23, 2018 - 9:18 am
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any spoke men out there. the wheels are wobbly it has been respoked with steel spokes by an amateur never been on the road. It has a 1/2 inch wobble (lateral) I thought i may have been able to pull it in. Starting with the rear wheel two spoke lenghts i noticed the spokes on the right side were short on thread and the left had heaps. The tyre is still on so i cant see the length depth. One would think they should be equal.

Anyone had practical experience.

haddy

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cocorico
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March 23, 2018 - 11:03 am
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Loads - try typing the following in to the search box of your web browser - spokes site:bsabantamclub.com/forum

That format works for any query, just type your query instead of 'spokes'

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Haddy
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March 23, 2018 - 12:07 pm
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dear Fog horn leg horn

Spokes wont do it but i did check it out and got the same result as end play.

Although spokes are much less of a dark art.

No Spokes Men here

haddy

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two-stroke
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March 23, 2018 - 1:32 pm
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Blue Heeler
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March 23, 2018 - 2:21 pm
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Haddy,

Because your wheel has been bodged and is wibbly-wobbly(technical term),you`ll be needing the offset measurements for when you rebuild it,as you don`t have that reference point because of past "work".

I have a set of D1 plunder wheels all laced up correctly in the `80s and in primer,buried under other parts in my lock-up.I can supply these measurements and any advice you need on rebuilding.

Obviously,first it`s wheel out,tyre off and see how far those spokes are into the nipples.One side set could be correct,whilst the other sounds incorrect,you don`t want loads of exposed spoke thread...in fact it`s best for any to be hidden in the top part of the nipple,if only for cosmetic reasons as well as strength.That`s always been my take...others may have a different view?

I trued up both my D3 wheels in recent years,by turning bike upside down and clamping to bench and doing wheels in situ.Engine/tank/battery out,as you have.

I fitted a guide wire to the swing-arm/front forks so I could work to that point.

Put some more pics up if you can and we`ll go from there.

Regards,

Blue

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cocorico
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March 23, 2018 - 2:35 pm
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Why you no wissen? read-manual

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cocorico
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March 23, 2018 - 2:42 pm
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Similarly:

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What else can I do, or do you expect people to re-submit info they have already added even though you have been pointed at it.?

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Haddy
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March 24, 2018 - 2:06 am
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Hello Blue

I bought a spoke key $26 bit dear and decided to have a go.With the wheel set true in the frame the centre line is basicly there wobble either side.

So i ploded along gingerly and she started to true up quite cathartic. Stopped for lunch and its within 1 or 2mm, could probably get it better yet so it was a good morning.

I just noticed the bush just behind the points cam is pretty badly worn do you think that will be a problem.

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Blue Heeler
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March 24, 2018 - 9:49 am
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Well,as long as those spokes are into the nipples enough.If it were mine,I`d want the tyre off to check that....and also none were eating through the rim tape into the tube...bang...blowout!

I can`t see if the spoke pattern is correct from that close-up shot.

Sounds like you`re having fun,I enjoy wheel-building too,but to some it`s throwing tools around the workshop time,haha.

A straight edge run across the wheels,front-to-back,will give you an idea you`re in the right area.I used a length of straight angle-iron(well alloy actually),when I was checking wheel-alignment as an MOT tester.

Your speedo drive-box is missing from the rear spindle.When in place,there can be a problem with the speedo gearbox rubbing on the spokes,I`ve had that with a couple of Bantams.Carefully shimming out with a washer,so there`s still enough contact between the drive dog and hub boss is the way to go normally.

Nah I wouldn`t pay that for a spoke key,but I`m tight and I can say I wouldn`t pay that because I`ve had some vintage ones in my toolkit for decades and I have a tiny little Whitworth adjustable spanner that`s a treat to use for fiddly jobs like that,if I can`t find the spoke keys 😉

New bush behind the points cam is an absolute must.The points gap will be all over the place and it wont do the crank any good....in fact check the run-out on the end of the crank before proceeding.

Blue

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Haddy
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March 24, 2018 - 10:32 am
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Hello Blue

Waiting on engine parts.Yes i was waiting to check if shaft runs true i have a felling it may not.Then what a touch up with the hammer. I got quite good at that on prop shafts when i used to build and fly electric aircraft.

haddy

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sunny
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March 24, 2018 - 10:49 am
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hi  Haddy    do  a  search   at  the  top  of  the   page   useing  the   word  " oilite "   the  gape  for  most  brass  bearing  is  just   ONE  thow  over ONE &  a  HARF   thow   it   starts  to  reduce   the   shaft   size   

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Blue Heeler
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March 24, 2018 - 11:36 am
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Can you borrow some V-blocks or do you have access to a lathe...or can you refit the old bearings(if they aren`t shot) and pop the crank back in the cases for a look-see.

Apply mallet to the crank flywheels if the problem is there yes,but not on the main-shafts because of their heat-treated carbon composition.If it`s bent one way,the molecules are not free to go through that malarkey again...or rather it`s risky....Snap!  I was stuck at work with a bent inlet valve(two-piece composition) on a Guzzi proddy racer,result of missed gear from my dodgy foot on the way to work,1985.I straightened the valve and it got me the 22 miles back home,not the usual 140mph+,but nice and steady with the revs and through the gears.Luckily the valve head didn`t pull off...but your main-shaft whizzing around at 5,000 rpm with that heavy ignition flywheel on it.....??

Blue

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Mags 1
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March 25, 2018 - 2:35 am
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I've rebuilt a few wheels in my time and have five more to do once I get some decent outside spraying weather.

Set over is everything get that wrong and your wheels will be out of line, no matter how you try to cure it other ways.

I use an old cast iron truing jig, but I've seen some usable ones made out of scrap timber etc.

You may very well end up taking the spokes out and starting again.

But you must ask specific questions if you want answers, although I do understand that it's hard to describe something if you don't understand it.

On a wheel I recently rebuilt for my D7 rear, I'd already jotted down the set over before stripping it out, it was 1.5 inches speedo side and an inch the other, which is of no help at all to you.

Looking at wheel, you should see spokes in bunches of four together, if it's correct.

Spokes from same side, laying in same direction, should be four holes apart. But it would take some sort of monstrous incident to have a rebuilt wheel with anything but the correct layout.

You can send me a pm if you want pics and a link to another place where I post more often and record my rebuilds fully.

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How spokes can stick out when you haven't yet started to tighten up.

 

Making a start; you need to put a twist into the hub after inserting first set.

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Drum side done, easier speedo gearbox side left, ends of spokes are simply hooked in.

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Done.

A couple of pointers though, only 10 gauge spokes now seem to be sold instead of the 12's that used to be fitted to earlier Bantams on the front wheels particularly.

Some early Bantams used 36 spokes instead of the now more common forty, but the point I am making is that the four spokes bunched together rule still applies, whether wheel is 36 spoke or 40 and even Triumphs, Nortons and others seem to share this common trait.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Haddy
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April 3, 2018 - 8:02 am
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Hello

Parts arrived today wrong everything.There is no end gap in the standard rings that cant be right or have sent me oversize rings too.

Help. 

have 2 old nuts(haha) and bought a new one for the primary drive sproket and none will go on more than a few threads why???

haddy

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Blue Heeler
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April 3, 2018 - 12:10 pm
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Good morning rusty nuts...sorry,I mean Haddy.

You`ve placed the rings in a clean bore,pushed halfway down with a clean piston?

The ring overlaps itself ...or just butts up tight?If it`s the latter,then very,very carefully,as in don`t break the ring,file down to the  desired gap...that`s 0.009"according to the Haynes manual.They are soft enough to do this easilly...I`ve done it many times.

As for your dodgy nuts,either wrong ones or if plated then threads not cleaned out properly. Weren`t the old ones good enough to use with a bit of thread-lock?

Blue

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Haddy
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April 3, 2018 - 12:30 pm
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no i tried the rings at the bottom af the cylinder the piston fits ok. None of the nuts would go on the thread is clean and sharp. I have had it twice before BSA threads cut at the same time to fit, different or blunt dyes. the thread on the clutch nut is the same and they all fit that

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Blue Heeler
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April 3, 2018 - 1:03 pm
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Just a matter of filing the rings down then.

Oh, it`s just poorly cut blunt threads in the nuts,sounds about right....so a quick run through with a finishing tap will do the trick eh.

Yep pattern parts are often not up to scratch.My top local bike engineer dropped a pattern gudgeon pin I`d given him when he was relining a cylinder for me..it snapped in half on his concrete floor.That shedbuilt dave link I put up,he`s always getting duff parts and having to modify or bin and make his own.Pain isn`t it!   

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Haddy
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April 4, 2018 - 3:03 am
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Hello Blue

The seals i got are not right.When i stripped it the seal on the RHS with the two bearings was on the inside hard up to the flywheel on a 29mm shoulder against the flywheel. But when studying the blown up schematic of the engine the seal goes between the two bearings.I cant understand how as it looks like a seal in there would block the oil holes.

Also on the drawing there is a sort of flanged spacer on the LHS there is none in my engine. I have spent $800 on every part i needed now i think i should have got the engine done before i bought the other parts.

What did you file the ring gap with,I have never had to file rings before.

Hope this makes sense to you.

haddy

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