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Stoo's D1 'Preservation'
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swalsh58
St. Mary's Bay, Kent
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July 23, 2018 - 7:46 am
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Is that not just a casting line? 

Current bikes......1958 D5, and a 77 Suzuki GT250 being rebuilt. I have a 74 Kawasaki KH400 in the queue, along with a 58 Tiger Cub and a 1980 Honda CB400N. A 1978 Honda CB125S on the road and  I currently ride a 2011 Harley Davidson 883 Sportster

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Anderzander
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July 23, 2018 - 8:29 am
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Ooo look a 59 direct lighting model like mine 😀

I read a page or two back that you weren’t sure the Sabrina was original? It was on these years.

I assume you gor your wiring and switch wiring sorted if you’ve been for a shakedown ride? The wiring it came with looked messy - but interesting ... with a solid state regulator fitted?

Thanks for the mention on the brakes 😊

On that crack - I’d probably take some advice on that... first thing is though that it may well have been like that for a very long time ?  The second thing is that welding cast can be tricky, some people say pre-heat it - some say keep it cool - but a lot say it’s prone to crack around the weld and say it may need filling afterwards 😳

So might be worth asking if someone could run some braze in it? Or if someone here has welded one and how they did it? Or even if putting a tiny drill in at each end of the crack and some chemical metal might be a decent option?

Stephen

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Blue Heeler
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July 23, 2018 - 1:17 pm
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Stoo63 said
Oh dear!!

[Permission to view this image is denied]

Took out the engine to replace oil seals as when I took it for a shakedown there was a plume of smoke. Whilst tidying the frame I came across this rather unpleasant crack! ! MOST distressing. Hopefully I should be able to repair if with my new mig welder? Been collecting a few wee jobs to practice on before unleashing myself on something critical like this.......  

Many Plunger Bantam rebuilders are alarmed by this "crack".

Both my D1 Plunger frames and my D3 Plunger frame have this non-welded joint.The frame will almost certainly be sound underneath.....the "crack" in the bracket would open up if the frame was cracked too.I`ve never seen a frame crack there...yet.

Yours has possibly had some issue with the section in the bottom of photo,because someone has welded it,and it appears to have cracked along the side of the weld....while the section in the top is correct,better than many I`ve seen.

I am guessing that the frame engineers left this non-welded joint deliberately to allow some frame flex( ∴ energy not concentrated ,and subsequent risk of breakage, at this point),what with the weight of the rider concentrated in this area.

Without seeing close-ups of the repaired section after thorough cleaning....and the top of the bracket too,it`s difficult to advise further.

I cannot post pics on the forum yet,but happy to email you a pic of my ...er...non-welded join(D3 Plunger)

Blue

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Stoo63
GLASGOW
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July 23, 2018 - 1:32 pm
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Defo a crack, I'm  afraid. Could well have been like that for a while. Hopefully someone on here will have fixed this kind of issue before and have the gen on it. Ive just bought my first welder and don't want to make a hash of something so important.

Stephen,  got enough wiring done to run about for a little bit but the smoke was too much - the neighbours would be complaining about their clean washing on the line! Engine now lying in bits atop the cooker as usual ☺

Looks like we're very closely related Stephen. Mine first appeared in a dealership in Blackheath Dec58 before reappearing in Nairn (!) Jan59. Thats the RAS bit the same as yours. P.s. dont know if you got shot of the legshields on another post....

I'm still looking as the first set i got were aftermarket jobs without the fittings and another generic set I took a punt on on ebay are just a wee bit to big to fettle.

Im glad that Sabrinas are legit. Such a gorgeous lamp. Still fiddling with a brake switch solution. Tried soldering battery-powered LEDS but too dim. Unfortunately, Faraday's Laws and the Wheatstone Bridge are a very dim relic of my teenage years 💡

1959 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '60 5TA, '76 FS1-E.

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Anderzander
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July 23, 2018 - 2:08 pm
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I do stil have a set of leg shields - I too bought two before I got one that seemed right. 

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Old Sid
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July 23, 2018 - 2:32 pm
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If you can braze it that would be a better job.

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Mistgreen53
Rotherham S. Yorks
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July 23, 2018 - 3:11 pm
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Hi. I made enquiries about that very crack on my '55 Bantam. Apparently it is a casting line, to do with the way it was manufactured, the lugs for the footbrake/stand stop bar are then welded onto that. (from a very reliable source). He has certainly never known one to fail.hope-that-helps

Graham

 D1 '59 on the road.  D1 '55 undergoing restoration. D1 '53 on the back-burner.

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swalsh58
St. Mary's Bay, Kent
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July 23, 2018 - 3:44 pm
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Mistgreen53 said
Hi. I made enquiries about that very crack on my '55 Bantam. Apparently it is a casting line, to do with the way it was manufactured, the lugs for the footbrake/stand stop bar are then welded onto that. (from a very reliable source). He has certainly never known one to fail.hope-that-helps

Graham  

that's what I thought. I'm sure I have seen this before, and I am a firm believer in the 'if it aint broke don't fix it' motto.....

Current bikes......1958 D5, and a 77 Suzuki GT250 being rebuilt. I have a 74 Kawasaki KH400 in the queue, along with a 58 Tiger Cub and a 1980 Honda CB400N. A 1978 Honda CB125S on the road and  I currently ride a 2011 Harley Davidson 883 Sportster

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Stoo63
GLASGOW
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July 23, 2018 - 3:47 pm
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Awesome, as ever, Blue! That's a relief. Gonna give the whole area a good clean and will take some more pics. I need to fix the thread on one of the supports for the stand plate as well. The stand itself is pretty worn but will have to do in  the meantime.[Permission to view this image is denied]
[Permission to view this image is denied]

And includes free nuts added by the previous owner. The colour is actually the humbrol enamel for Napoleonic british infantry! The thin red line ☺

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1959 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '60 5TA, '76 FS1-E.

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Stoo63
GLASGOW
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July 23, 2018 - 3:50 pm
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Thanks a lot, guys. Thats one less job to do! Ill keep the welder for the seat on my FS1-E ☺

1959 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '60 5TA, '76 FS1-E.

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mike p5xbx
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July 23, 2018 - 4:26 pm
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Stoo63 said
Tried soldering battery-powered LEDS but too dim. Unfortunately,

I have used 4 x1watt star leds (two in series parallel with current limit resister) from a 9 volt battery (6x1.5volt AA) which were more then bright enough
if you could fit one of the small 12 volt SLA battery’s in the tool box would give you a much greater choice of standard LED bulbs

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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Stoo63
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July 28, 2018 - 11:23 pm
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I tried some LEDS with AA batts, mike. Only used 4. Would prefer to use them rather than be bothered with a 6 or 12v batg to recharge. Will persevere ☺

1959 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '60 5TA, '76 FS1-E.

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cocorico
Central France
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July 29, 2018 - 9:00 am
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A small 12v gel battery will last for ever with LEDs. (Well, a long time anyway).

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mike p5xbx
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July 29, 2018 - 4:12 pm
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use these 1watt LEDs you can use two or three in parallel from 3xAA battery’s (4.5 volt ) directly without using a current limiting resistor
ebay item 222797069438
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D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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Stoo63
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July 30, 2018 - 2:39 pm
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Thanks,  Mike. That looks just the job!

1959 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '60 5TA, '76 FS1-E.

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