A A A
Avatar

Please consider registering
Guest

Search

— Forum Scope —






— Match —





— Forum Options —





Minimum search word length is 3 characters - maximum search word length is 84 characters

Register Lost password?
sp_Feed sp_PrintTopic sp_TopicIcon
D1 53 Plunger Lucas restoration
Avatar
cocorico
Central France
Moderator
Moderator
Forum Posts: 2532
Member Since:
June 23, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
61
November 2, 2018 - 7:44 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Martin_uk said
Assume I will need to use shims to take up thickness of plate if not refitted?
 

I didn't on my D3, I don't think the plate forms a bearing surface.

Avatar
thornebt
Somerset
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 52
Member Since:
September 6, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
62
November 2, 2018 - 9:38 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

So were they just fitted to raise the crankcase compression slightly?  It doesn't matter if they're omitted?  Cheers. Bruce.

Avatar
cocorico
Central France
Moderator
Moderator
Forum Posts: 2532
Member Since:
June 23, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
63
November 3, 2018 - 7:35 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

thornebt said
So were they just fitted to raise the crankcase compression slightly?  It doesn't matter if they're omitted?  Cheers. Bruce.  

Thereby hangs a tale...If you use the query I showed in post 2 you will find all sorts of opinions. The unanswered question is why did BSA fit them if they were not needed? However, mine runs fine without them, many others do the same and I don't recall any poster saying otherwise.

Avatar
sunny
Norfolk
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 1035
Member Since:
January 9, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
64
November 3, 2018 - 9:12 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

      i  was   told      it   was  only   the  D5  &  7     stanard    modles    that  donot  have  webing side  plates      all  the  rest  from  D  1   to   the  B175   had  them       as  BSA    were      tite    with     mouny                 you  mite   like  to  look  in  to    the  2  stoke   cycle   system    at   Villers  &  DKW

Avatar
SpacedMarine
Up north
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 185
Member Since:
July 1, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
65
November 3, 2018 - 10:56 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Martin_uk said
Thanks for advice.

Assume I will need to use shims to take up thickness of plate if not refitted?

 

[Permission to view this image is denied]
[Permission to view this image is denied]
[Permission to view this image is denied]
  

Blimey there some schmoo in there 🤪

When you get your new rod and bigend don't forget to true the crank just watch your fingers!

[Permission to view this media is denied]

🤔🤔🤔😵😵😵

What's 7/16 in mm again?

Avatar
stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 276
Member Since:
June 13, 2015
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
66
November 4, 2018 - 7:50 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

That’s quite some technique!

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

Avatar
Martin_uk
Surrey
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 82
Member Since:
October 11, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
67
November 4, 2018 - 10:03 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

I tried pushing the big end pin out in vice using sockets either side but not budging, looks like it will need a hydraulic press

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

Avatar
SpacedMarine
Up north
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 185
Member Since:
July 1, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
68
November 4, 2018 - 11:08 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Martin_uk said
I tried pushing the big end pin out in vice using sockets either side but not budging, looks like it will need a hydraulic press  

Yes theyll be in there pretty tight.You will need to press them back together aswell.Then true the crank up once together.Think the runout at the end should be max 3 thousands.It was on my d14 not sure what the specs will be for yours but someone on here will know.v blocks copper hammer and dial guage is what you'll need.

[Permission to view this media is denied]

This video is quite helpful 👍

What's 7/16 in mm again?

Avatar
Martin_uk
Surrey
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 82
Member Since:
October 11, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
69
November 4, 2018 - 2:10 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Started checking forks and find that bushes quite loose on one side.

Draganfly have them at £14.34 each, decided to replace all at £32.99 from Ebay.

Now looking at stancnions and as fairly worn and chrome peeling at bottom, thinking of replacing.

Any recommendations for chroming or replacement?

I got Philpotts to hard chrome a set for my CB750, but that cost £178.

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

Avatar
GlenAnderson
Dover
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 107
Member Since:
August 27, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
70
November 4, 2018 - 4:26 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Re bushing the forks is simple if they’re late enough to have pressed in bushes. Early ones are soldered into place and need either sweating or machining out, which is much more involved. 

As for the sliders, if the bearing surface is still smooth and useable, then just paint the very bottom sections (that are outside the gaiters) silver, and leave it at that. If you go the rechrome route, then it’s imperative to get “hard” chrome and not decorative chrome, as the latter will almost instantly start to come off and will wreck your new bushes in short order. A friend of mine tried a set of the new ones from India; they looked rubbish enough that I wouldn’t even have fitted them, to be honest, but he did. Less than twenty miles later he’s got sliders with no chrome left on their wearing faces and ruined bushes. 

Avatar
Martin_uk
Surrey
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 82
Member Since:
October 11, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
71
November 4, 2018 - 9:01 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

SpacedMarine said

Martin_uk said
I tried pushing the big end pin out in vice using sockets either side but not budging, looks like it will need a hydraulic press  

Yes theyll be in there pretty tight.You will need to press them back together aswell.Then true the crank up once together.Think the runout at the end should be max 3 thousands.It was on my d14 not sure what the specs will be for yours but someone on here will know.v blocks copper hammer and dial guage is what you'll need.

[Permission to view this media is denied]

This video is quite helpful 👍  

I will probably get machine shop that did the bearing on a CG125 I had, do this 🙂

It would be handy to see the condition of big end to decide on whether con rod required, but suspect it will be .

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

Avatar
Martin_uk
Surrey
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 82
Member Since:
October 11, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
72
November 4, 2018 - 9:07 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

GlenAnderson said
Re bushing the forks is simple if they’re late enough to have pressed in bushes. Early ones are soldered into place and need either sweating or machining out, which is much more involved. 

As for the sliders, if the bearing surface is still smooth and useable, then just paint the very bottom sections (that are outside the gaiters) silver, and leave it at that. If you go the rechrome route, then it’s imperative to get “hard” chrome and not decorative chrome, as the latter will almost instantly start to come off and will wreck your new bushes in short order. A friend of mine tried a set of the new ones from India; they looked rubbish enough that I wouldn’t even have fitted them, to be honest, but he did. Less than twenty miles later he’s got sliders with no chrome left on their wearing faces and ruined bushes.   

I see Draganfly have stanchions at £56,70 each, but out of stock.

Its easy to see if seller is in India, but not so easy if a UK vendor has sourced from there 🙁

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

Avatar
Martin_uk
Surrey
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 82
Member Since:
October 11, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
73
November 8, 2018 - 4:41 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Thanks for offer of assistance and advice.

I decided to re use the lower one with a new upper and new bearings.

seems to operate smoothly

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

Avatar
Martin_uk
Surrey
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 82
Member Since:
October 11, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
74
November 9, 2018 - 9:32 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Fork bushes arrived today, Wassell ones, but one of the four will not fit on slider.

Have emailed vendor and will see what they suggest

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

Avatar
Martin_uk
Surrey
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 82
Member Since:
October 11, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
75
November 11, 2018 - 3:25 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Took a look at fuel tank today.

It was in red primer when I got it and asked powder coaters to strip.

They found there was lead filler in it which means it cant be powder coated.

Must have been done a long time ago.

I heated with a hot air gun and wire brushed out most of it.

Will see if I can get repaired and painted at reasonable cost.[Permission to view this image is denied]
[Permission to view this image is denied]
[Permission to view this image is denied]

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments
  • sp_PlupImage 20181111_135310.jpg(127 KB)
  • sp_PlupImage 20181111_135304.jpg(168 KB)
  • sp_PlupImage 20181111_135713.jpg(171 KB)

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

Avatar
GlenAnderson
Dover
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 107
Member Since:
August 27, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
76
November 11, 2018 - 4:41 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Looking at the pitting elsewhere on that picture, I’d be stripping it completely, and checking it was sound and not leaking along any of the seams, before I spent a penny on any other remedial work. It’s easy to find you’ve spent several hundred pounds on a fuel tank that looks great but leaks. 

Avatar
Martin_uk
Surrey
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 82
Member Since:
October 11, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
77
November 12, 2018 - 10:00 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

The Lucas model does come with extra challenges , but I am learning more about it 🙂

Starting to reassemble the headlight and wondered if anyone has a picture of the underslung sidelight bulb mounting.

If you know the part number or what other applications used on even better 🙂[Permission to view this image is denied]

I found the lens and fixing clip in the parts but no mounting for bulb.

I have seen a drawing and appears to fit on a plate above the lens.

Assume it slots into the tabs in photo?

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments
  • sp_PlupImage 20181111_190218.jpg(282 KB)

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

Avatar
Martin_uk
Surrey
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 82
Member Since:
October 11, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
78
November 12, 2018 - 10:06 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

GlenAnderson said
Looking at the pitting elsewhere on that picture, I’d be stripping it completely, and checking it was sound and not leaking along any of the seams, before I spent a penny on any other remedial work. It’s easy to find you’ve spent several hundred pounds on a fuel tank that looks great but leaks.   

Good point Glen.

It has been grit blasted and zinc primed, the interior looks ok, but I will fit the tap and test.

Still washing out the grit that got inside 🙂

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

Avatar
Martin_uk
Surrey
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 82
Member Since:
October 11, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
79
November 12, 2018 - 10:13 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

I am reassembling the Lucas Deluxe headlight.

Unfortunately the ammeter that came with bike has no rim.

As I am way over budget, looking at alternatives to new one.

Thought about gluing an O ring on, but then found some old unused Norton Commando fork seals and thought that might work.

Then came up with an idea to use the spring and glue that on 🙂

Not sure if will work, but worth a try.

Used an O ring on underside.

The spring will not be visible as ignition switch panel fits over it.

[Permission to view this image is denied]
[Permission to view this image is denied]
[Permission to view this image is denied]
[Permission to view this image is denied]
[Permission to view this image is denied]

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments
  • sp_PlupImage 20181031_103238.jpg(114 KB)
  • sp_PlupImage 20181031_103231.jpg(127 KB)
  • sp_PlupImage 20181031_103252.jpg(150 KB)
  • sp_PlupImage 20181031_142957.jpg(211 KB)
  • sp_PlupImage 20181031_143021.jpg(158 KB)

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

Avatar
Martin_uk
Surrey
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 82
Member Since:
October 11, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
80
November 12, 2018 - 10:18 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Found this image of Lucas Deluxe headlamp.

Thanks to original posters as useful reference when no parts manual seems to cover the Lucas parts[Permission to view this image is denied]
[Permission to view this image is denied]

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments
  • sp_PlupImage lucas-deluxe-headlightIMG_0229-800x600.jpg(136 KB)
  • sp_PlupImage lucas1950-d1-battery-LH-side-ignition-switch.jpg(155 KB)

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

Forum Timezone: Europe/London

Most Users Ever Online: 98

Currently Online: barffy, JulianS
24 Guest(s)

Currently Browsing this Page:
1 Guest(s)

Top Posters:

Cornish Rooster: 3304

Anderzander: 3210

bart: 3128

Sprung Chicken: 2650

David Dale: 2493

Mags 1: 2257

Munchkin: 2219

Katj: 2139

Blue Heeler: 1950

HowD1: 1941

Newest Members:

_1304

Forum Stats:

Groups: 9

Forums: 45

Topics: 11307

Posts: 97153

 

Member Stats:

Guest Posters: 510

Members: 2362

Moderators: 4

Admins: 3

Administrators: Piquet, JMD, Rusty Floater

Moderators: cocorico, Derek's D5, D3Major150, xcgb