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D1 53 Plunger Lucas restoration
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Blue Heeler
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October 29, 2018 - 9:35 pm
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I`ve had similar cracks "stitched".Alternative to welding.

If you decide to replace those cases,don`t ditch,I`ll take them off your hands 🙂

Clean out crack very thoroughly,stitch from inside,fill crack,cover up cosmetically on outside.Run.It`s not as if it`s in an area that affects any alignment.

I have some damaged Bantam crankcases,holed in many places from a rivet working loose from crank cover,that previous owner filled from inside.Not cases I`ve used myself,but can see they`ve been run for many miles without any failure in the repair.

Top tuner with many wins from his preparations,that I used in the `80s for fast road bikes,went through a 350 2-stroke port into the  water jacket. He used alradite to repair, and off the bike went to win IOM race,clocked at a claimed 160mph.

Blue

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Piquet
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October 29, 2018 - 9:36 pm
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Regarding crankcase welding, have a look here

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hope-that-helps

I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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GlenAnderson
Dover
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October 29, 2018 - 11:09 pm
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The issues with fitting a 175cc engine into a rigid/plunger frame are, in no particular order:

Physically larger carburettor, which will want to take up the space where the toolbox/battery carrier originally sits. There is room, just, to mount a battery between the frame and the rear mudguard, or to make something that sits offset, but you’ll have to fabricate something. Of course, battery-less systems are possible, but it’s something you’ll have to consider. 

Higher output engines, like the D14/4 and D175 really perform best with a large bore exhaust, which is tricky to fit with D1/3/5 footrests and stands. The D7 engine is quite happy though, with a smaller bore exhaust.

The higher output engines do start to show up the weaknesses of the rigid/plunger machines (lack of) rigidity and lightweight forks/brakes.

A D3 engine is visually identical to a late D1, and the extra 20% capacity and slightly more aggressive porting means 25% more power and torque, which makes a surprising difference; particularly around that second/top gearchange. 

I ran a D7 engine in my ‘53 D1 for a number of years, and IMHO, it was a nice compromise to ride with. Enough power to cruise at 50, to see 60 downhill with a following wind, and the flexibility to bridge the huge gap between second and top. I swapped it back because I was unhappy with the looks, with no toolbox and a modern battery, because I needed the engine for a different project (long gone), and because I thought I could live with a tuned/rebuilt D1 engine. Turns out that a tuned D1 engine isn’t very rideable on the road, so that idea got sold on too. I’ve currently got the original engine back in, but I’ve slowly amassed all the necessary parts to rebuild a D3 as the 125 is just as woeful now as it was when I was a teenager. More so possibly, because I’m fatter. 

There’s nothing stopping you building a hybrid engine, mixing and matching parts. A 4-speed bottom end, with a D7 top end would be nice, provided you were happy with carb/battery/visual issues. At the moment, you’ve lots of potential choices. I’d suggest some research, and maybe see if you can get a ride on some different models to get a feel of how different they are. A rigid/plunger Bantam is a great thing to pootle around on, but the standard 125s are a bit too slow for comfort; very much like riding an unrestricted moped. 

Best of luck, and keep us posted. 

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Martin_uk
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October 30, 2018 - 4:53 pm
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Piquet said
Regarding crankcase welding, have a look here

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hope-that-helps  

Wow that is amazing

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

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mike p5xbx
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October 30, 2018 - 5:25 pm
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the thing I love about Bantams is that you can mix so many parts from different models and it still looks almost original
my D? Is a D1 frame with D3 forks and D5 front wheel (better brakes)
the engine is D14 crankcase with B175 crank D10 cylinder D14 head
with flat top two ring piston with a D7 exhaust and 12volt electrics without a battery
so one part from every model and it goes extremely well

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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sunny
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October 31, 2018 - 9:10 am
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to  aners     POST   26         the  D 5 frames  have   tubes   inside  tubs   i   would  ges  this  is  to  make  them  stronger   so   i  serjest   you   modyfy  your  frame   if   your   going  to  fit  a  biger    enging  

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swalsh58
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October 31, 2018 - 9:28 am
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sunny said
to  aners     POST   26         the  D 5 frames  have   tubes   inside  tubs   i   would  ges  this  is  to  make  them  stronger   so   i  serjest   you   modyfy  your  frame   if   your   going  to  fit  a  biger    enging    

Do NOT, under any circumstances, modify your frame if your bike isn't registered with DVLA. If you do that, I cannot issue a dating certificate, and without one you wont be able to register it as a 1950's Bantam. If you already have it registered then do as you will, but remember the MOT exemption is only for machines that have not been 'significantly' modified from original, and I would suggest that making alterations to the frame constitutes a significant modification. 

Current bikes......1958 D5, and a 77 Suzuki GT250 being rebuilt. I have a 74 Kawasaki KH400 in the queue, along with a 58 Tiger Cub and a 1980 Honda CB400N. A 1978 Honda CB125S on the road and  I currently ride a 2011 Harley Davidson 883 Sportster

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sunny
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October 31, 2018 - 9:39 am
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sunny said
to  aners     POST   26         the  D 5 frames  have   tubes   inside  tubs   i   would  ges  this  is  to  make  them  stronger   so   i  serjest   you   modyfy  your  frame   if   your   going  to  fit  a  biger    enging    

    DO NOT   MODYFY    BY CUTING  AND  WELDING       BUT  BY  BOLTED   WEBING  PLATS   

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Martin_uk
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November 1, 2018 - 5:47 pm
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Further progress on front wheel after false start and finding hub bent.

 

Picked up replacement hub from powder coaters, fitted bearings, checked again 🙂

 

Transferred over spokes and rim .

 

Assembled with new Ferodo shoes.

 

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1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

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Martin_uk
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November 1, 2018 - 5:55 pm
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I was surprised to find that speedo worked when tested using an electric drill with the end of an old cable.

At first thought the odometer not working, but tried for a bit longer and seems ok.

Case was tatty, so removed old paint and repainted in Black.

Perspex had been fitted instead of glass to face and wondered why it did not fully close.

Bought a replacement glass on Ebay, came with ground edges and seems good.

Tried to fit and found screws too long as had been replaced with longer ones for the thicker perspex.

Luckily I had some 6BA screws that after cutting down fit 🙂

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1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

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Martin_uk
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November 1, 2018 - 8:17 pm
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I recently bought new cones from Draganfly, but instead of being the same top and bottom both were a loose fit at bottom on 1" stem.

One was very loose and other closer, but not an interference fit.

I can use one for top one but Draganfly say they cant source the correct lower one at present.

 

They recommend I try Bouremouth Bantams, but they are away for a couple of weeks.

 

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1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

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sunny
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November 2, 2018 - 9:18 am
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   a   qwik  wipe   with  a  brilopad    if  rust  pited     get a  new  set    if not   reuse    &  gres  well   

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Mags 1
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November 2, 2018 - 10:16 am
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I've got plenty of used ones, sure I could sort you out one or two good enough to save buying a complete set.

I'll have a look later today to see what I've got and send some pics to you via PM.

I've still got some early yokes I can try them out on first, but a vernier caliper or micrometer is a better idea if you have one to measure them with.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Martin_uk
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November 2, 2018 - 11:24 am
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Thanks Mags

The stem is 1" so need ID on cone to be a few thou less to make it an interference fit.

The old ones are not too bad but can see some deterioration under magnification and dont like to put back if abetter alternative is available

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

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johnsullivan
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November 2, 2018 - 4:57 pm
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there is no dimpling that I can see .I would not fret too much.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247

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cocorico
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November 2, 2018 - 5:14 pm
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If you turn them through 180 deg you should be on the less loaded areas.

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Mags 1
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November 2, 2018 - 6:31 pm
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Mags 1 said
I've got plenty of used ones, sure I could sort you out one or two good enough to save buying a complete set.

I'll have a look later today to see what I've got and send some pics to you via PM.

I've still got some early yokes I can try them out on first, but a vernier caliper or micrometer is a better idea if you have one to measure them with.  

It's just one you want isn't it, didn't read it correctly at first I see now.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Martin_uk
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November 2, 2018 - 7:12 pm
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Thanks for suggestions on removal of flywheel plates.

I used a small chisel to tap back the areas pushed out by centre punches.

Applied some release agent then levered up plate using slots provided.

Looking at the accumulated rusty sludge, no wonder I had problems seperating cases.

1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

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Martin_uk
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November 2, 2018 - 7:15 pm
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1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

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Martin_uk
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November 2, 2018 - 7:22 pm
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Thanks for advice.

Assume I will need to use shims to take up thickness of plate if not refitted?

 

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1953 D1 Plunger Lucas

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