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A D3 Bantam Called Camilla
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johnsullivan
east sussex
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June 8, 2017 - 4:32 pm
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Its a pain the swingarm wheel on all models mine is not as diagram .You are quite right about the freeform production line.My Dad had a grey Bantam Major{ MUH142} I think which after a puncture in the rear and much grief was replaced by an Austin 7  he simply said had it happened on a winters day miles from home he would have died of exposure...

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247

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Bob-B
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June 13, 2017 - 7:50 pm
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Rear wheel now sorted! Well, as sorted as it looks like it's going to get! I think a lot of it is more to do with the new tyre being fatter than the Speedmaster which came off. Thanks all for your replies.

It took a 3mm washer on the drive side to make it OK. Still not perfect but seems OK and the brake arm is engaging enough so it shouldn't come off the peg...

Rear brake is showing up as the next bug bear. I've read elsewhere that others have had to bend the rod to clear the frame, which I've done and it (mostly) does!

The pedal sits way too high and the plate to limit its movement doesn't so it's hitting the engine casing. Lot's of marks on the cover show that it's been like this for a while. Adjusting the screw on the brake rod only brings the pedal higher and the spring on the pedal forces it to this position anyway. Measuring up, even reversing the limit stop plate won't put the stop in the right place. Is this a case of "they're all like that sir" or is something missing/wrong?

Centre stand spring is knerped and the centre stand bounces about when up so, I'll have to find one of those from somewhere.

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We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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Bob-B
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June 13, 2017 - 8:18 pm
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After further examination and searching, it seems that I have this problem ** Please log in to view **

The bike has always been unstable on the centre stand too, now I know why!

I guess it's time to take it off and to fabricate a new one.

We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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sunny
Norfolk
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June 14, 2017 - 9:22 am
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hi  Bob   its  a bit  of   everything       Albie   says    plus   the  aloy    stand   bushes  ,foot rest   rod      and holes  in  the  brack  lever  stop   needs   its    holes  recut   back a   bit   so   the   plate  noves   forward   about  half    the  hole   size

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Bob-B
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July 11, 2017 - 9:01 pm
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Much has gone on since last posting; brake lever position fixed, wiring sorted, tank and seat back on, other little bits here and there.

Unfortunately my carefully disassembled and reassembled Wipac switch and socket does seem to be too tired to actually work still. I've hooked the battery leads up to a power supply and have to hold the switch to one side to get the lights to come on. The power supply I have can only deliver a few amps so doesn't really light the bulbs but it is measurable with a multimeter.

The horn is making some grumbling noises like it may work with a bit more oomph and the brake light just about creeps into life. Fingers crossed with the battery hooked up I've got everything wired in right.

While I intend to use the selenium rectifier, I have bought a solid state one just in case; I presume it doesn't matter which way round the AC wires are connected as it's only half wave?

Is the correct type for a new one S0781? I can't find the socket anywhere so guess there's no replicas available and best just to use spade connectors?

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jolon1
Leigh Lancashire
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July 12, 2017 - 12:44 pm
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These pages may help you.

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D7 & D1 Racer

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Bob-B
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July 12, 2017 - 2:24 pm
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Cheers! Not found that website before, very useful.

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Bob-B
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July 24, 2017 - 8:28 pm
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Does anyone have a photo of the centre stand spring arrangement? I've fitted a new spring and the stand is worse than it was before. I've obviously got something wrong, but the spring only seems to be able to fit in one place which is where the old one was taken from.

We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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Piquet
West Norfolk
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July 24, 2017 - 9:25 pm
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Have a look here for the arrangement and the probable cause.

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tip-my-hat

I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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jess steele
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July 24, 2017 - 10:36 pm
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Sounds like you've been sold the d7 onwards spring.Send it back or shorten the the hook by folding it round a socket in the vice then cut off the tag end with grinder...

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In true blue peter fashion here's one i did earlier,note how short the neck is on the hook now....hope-that-helps

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Bob-B
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July 24, 2017 - 10:40 pm
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Hello both, my bike doesn't have that C link, the spring that came off was just hooked around the frame so I put this one back in the same place... I did compress the old, very tired, spring to check it was the same length as the one which came off before fitting it.

Should I have the C link?

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Bob-B
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July 24, 2017 - 10:49 pm
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Nuts, just found the drawing on the Draganfly website, I clearly do need the link. Looks like they only sell the link,not the bit it fits to the frame with, time to trawl ebay again!

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Piquet
West Norfolk
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July 25, 2017 - 1:53 am
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???

They seem to have all the parts required

90-4707 Stop Plate (looks as though you already have this)

90-4724 Pivot Pin Clip

90-4723 Pivot Pin

90-4716 Centre Stand Link

except the spring

90-4718 Centre Stand Spring

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but at nearly £18 + p&p it may be cheaper to make your own!

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thumbs-up

I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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Bob-B
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July 25, 2017 - 6:40 am
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My bad, in my frustration I was just glancing at pictures and the page for 90-4724 has a picture for the pivot pin on it!

I'll just buy. Too close to finishing and keep being held up by some really annoyingly simple bits, that nonetheless have taken too much time to rectify.

I have an engine which seems good to go subject to a quick road test, mostly working electrics ( new horn and brake switch on the way), so far and fingers crossed, there's been nothing major to really fix...

The bolt that holds this arrangement in place feels like it's only just holding in which may be why it got taken off in the first place. Chemical metal or a helicoil may be required...

It always seems like it's the last little bits that cause the longest delays!

We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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Bob-B
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August 2, 2017 - 9:46 pm
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With a bodged up centre stand, a bit of faith and a heavy boot Camilla was started, 3rd kick, and run around the estate at work this evening. Aside from having a little moment when forgetting that the foot controls are the reverse of what I'm used to, everything went well. No more than 30mph was achieved, but done comfortably, which also seemed adequate for the brakes!

Properly chuffed with this first little run out.

The plan is to take it for a bigger run over lunch tomorrow (when I have the oportunity to be picked up in the works van if all goes badly!) then to ride back the 30 miles from Coventry to Leicester on Friday. A couple of things I'd like some advice on: -

  • Bearing in mind it's a long time since the engine has been run, what fuel mixture should I use? I've seen different figures, I'll be using a semi synthetic 2 stroke oil. 20:1? 16:1?
  • What sort of speed should I hold the engine at to not over stress it on the run home? 30mph or should it be able to take more. I've read quoted top speeds of 50mph, but then my NC750 is supposed to do 80mpg and never does!

We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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Bob-B
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August 4, 2017 - 2:53 pm
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The lunch time run out ended up in a push back!

While I was pushing her back some cheeky piky in a transit offered me £50 for it! At least that's what I think he was saying...

Anyhoo, I still got 5 or 6 miles out of Camilla before the engine died, and only a quick 10 minute push to get back. It hadn't seized and wouldn't re-start so I suspect it's the coil failing. If it re-starts again once everything has cooled down I'd say that's a certainty.

Only just about got it to go to 30mph, sometimes 40mph on the gauge and holding it at full throttle. I know I have to change my expectations with this machine but that does seem quite poor?

The nasty bit is the gear selection is bad. 1st is fine, I can get 2nd but it will jump out, 3rd holds but I can't really feel when it's selected.

I'll change the coil next week and try again to confirm if that's the cause of the engine stopping and lack of power, then I suppose it's case splitting time!

We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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Bob-B
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August 8, 2017 - 8:10 am
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In preparation for stripping the engine I've read the excellent write up here [Permission to view this media is denied]
and will be buying a rebuild kit from Rex Caunt.

With my gear selection problem, what actually causes the problem, how is it fixed, and are there any extra bits I should be buying ahead of the strip down?

We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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Bob-B
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August 28, 2017 - 7:58 pm
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A few late nights at work have prevented any further work, but I managed to get started stripping down the engine today. A few little bodges found!

The timing cam is missing the key, held in place only by the screw, so that's why the engine died on my little test run!

The engine has been stripped previously at least as far as clutch, the first indicator of this was these two grooves on the inside of the cover...

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and

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I released the three screws holding the clutch cover on and all hell broke loose! Springs everywhere! A few minutes crawling around the floor recovering bits and then I could figure out what happened. A previous owner had removed the clutch to replace a spring, 'cos one of them's different.

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He didn't seem to think the clutch needed all that friction either, so removed a few pads...

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then stuck it all together with the cups imediately under the clutch cover rather than the plate inside.

Still, saved me having to use a clutch compression tool which remains lovely and clean and in its bag!

We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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Bob-B
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September 3, 2017 - 7:42 pm
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I've found the missing key for the timing cam, sort of! Under closer inspection what I thought was the groove for the key isn't... it's still in place but has been ground away to be just below the surface. I have no idea how to extract it just yet.

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Flywheel came off easily.

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Then, when knocking over the lock washer on the drive sprocket, a ball bearing fell out from somewhere. Can't see it on any drawings and can't see any missing from the races. Anybody got an idea where the ball bearing may have come from?

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We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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Bob-B
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September 3, 2017 - 7:57 pm
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...nearly forgot, the nut on the drive sproket measures 1.2" which I can't find a spanner or socket for. I could of course use and adjustable but that always feels a bit cowboy, any tips for where to find a suitable spanner? 1 1/4" AF maybe?

We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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