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A D3 Bantam Called Camilla
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Bob-B
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April 5, 2017 - 5:39 pm
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So from what you're saying it's probably been swapped from another bike that's not a Bantam?

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two-stroke
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April 6, 2017 - 1:49 am
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Could be from a Triumph/Sunbeam scooter.

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Mags 1
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April 6, 2017 - 5:00 pm
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two-stroke said
Could be from a Triumph/Sunbeam scooter.  

Perhaps Ariel Colt, or possibly Arrow or Leader too?

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Bob-B
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April 8, 2017 - 10:23 am
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I'll take a look at all of those. Adjusted Wiring harness arrived yesterday and now fits perfectly. No time to do any more for a few weeks 'cos I'm off to Melbourne for my brothers wedding. Morton Bay bugs from the market are first on my list!

We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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Bob-B
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May 2, 2017 - 8:53 am
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This weekend was wheels. They're not in a great state but have cleaned back to an acceptable "patina".

What I'm now thinking of is how to protect the chrome to stop it rusting up again too quickly. My choices are to try an alloy wheel sealer like Armor All or use a gloss lacquer for a more permanent solution. 

I don't want to have the wheel stripped and re-built, because they'd stand out a mile from the rest of the bike, what I need is to have them more or less as they are and keep them that way.

Any opinions or recommendations of other products/methods to halt any further deterioration?

Cheers

Bob

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cocorico
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May 2, 2017 - 12:05 pm
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I've cleaned my old chrome rims using fine wire-wool and paraffin, then applied a coat of wax polish. Works OK, you just have to re-polish after a wash.

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Piquet
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May 2, 2017 - 12:09 pm
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Yep, did similar to mine, brass wool and WD40 then Carnauba wax. Ridden through a flood and still no rust!

I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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Bob-B
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May 30, 2017 - 8:26 pm
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I've been doing the wiring harness, getting the speedo restored and a few little bits an bobs the last few weeks when I've been able.

Last week I fitted the new tyres so I could get the wheels back on now the wiring for the rear lights is fed neatly through the loops in the mudguard.

However... all is not going well. The wheel just doesn't want to go in properly and is sitting off to the left so it rubs on the mudguard and looks like it's tilting over (although by measurement from the centre line of the LH shock to the rim top and bottom it seems square)

I'm as certain as I can be that everything was right when the wheel came out so either I'm doing something stupid, have put something back wrong or something else moved when the wheel came out. I've measured as much of the frame as I can to be fairly certain that it's all square, and there's no evidence of damage.

I'm stumped!

I've taken photos of all the wheel spacers, shown how the wheel looks so hopefully someone is going to be able to look at it and say "it's this ya numpty!"

Sorry for the quantity of photos, figured it'd be easier to spot if I posted a few up.

(I should point out that I know the brake arm etc. isn't in position, I was trying the wheel without this in place to see if that made a difference, which it didn't)

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We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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Bob-B
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May 30, 2017 - 8:51 pm
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This gridded up photo might help, I've taken the centre line of the tyre as the datum. It's all a bit wonky!

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johnsullivan
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June 6, 2017 - 9:27 am
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At first blush I would suspect the tinware is a bit out..

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247

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Mick W
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June 6, 2017 - 11:58 am
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Have a look at this attached thread and start with the bike upright. You may not have as much problem as you feel . Thread #48 it appears the bike is leaning over slightly.

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HTH

Mick

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Bob-B
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June 6, 2017 - 12:47 pm
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I did wonder if it was just the mudguard that was out (the number plate is definitely fitted wrong to the mudguard), but then the chain guard and mudguard are as far to the left as they seem able to go. If you look at the 2nd photo the nut on the chain guard is almost touching the rim and that in turn is up against the LH shock. The mudguard seems centralised to the spine of the main frame.

I took another look yesterday and there's a possibility a previous owner has tried to remove the swingarm, the pin has a Nyloc on it which I can't imagine was original fit, please correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm searching for the simple and obvious before starting to get the heavy tools out!

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Bob-B
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June 6, 2017 - 8:30 pm
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This evening I've removed every bolt from the mudguard to see if it'll move to the left with no joy. The brackets and spacers actually hold it in a very fixed and rigid position.

The lean on the wheel seems to have cured itself; now I've removed the wonky number plate it doesn't actually look too bad.

It's still fouling the mudguard on the left though!

The only way I can get it to not foul is by having it at an angle... but then it'll foul the top left of the mudguard. Photos below show how far I need to adjust to one side to achieve this.

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The mudguard is central to the spine of the main frame

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So I looked at the wheel dish, a bit rough and ready, but there doesn't look to be any dish to the right. Should there be?

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I don't suppose there's anyone near Leicester/Coventry who has a D3 swingarm and would be kind enough to allow me to take a look at it?

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Bob-B
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June 7, 2017 - 9:16 am
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A bit of nerding last night turned up this drawing

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I have two of item 23 rather than just the one illustrated, a couple of washers and a few felt washers missing too. I'll try it again this evening removing the 2nd nut on the speedo drive side.

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sunny
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June 7, 2017 - 12:28 pm
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hi  bob   the  D5  has 2  nuts  in  the  parts   book   but  some times  has a  spacer  as  thick as  the  nut  insted     you   need   to asess   how meny spacers   need     ther s  one  inside  the   sp/ gearbox  to  keep it  away  from  the  wheel     ,,1v  replyed  to your  other  post  by  the way  

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Bob-B
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June 7, 2017 - 5:14 pm
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Cheers Sunny, I'll take a look. I (hope) don't think anythings bent, Nearly at the end of the working day so the spanners will be out again in a moment.

Is it possible to drive either bearing in too far and throw the wheel over to one side or the other? It's clear it's been apart before so I'm thinking that may be another possibility.

Mates at our local club wondered if the axle could go in the wrong way, but it doesn't look like that's possible from the drawing above.

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johnsullivan
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June 7, 2017 - 6:09 pm
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My instinct here is to take off all the tinware align the bike correctly including wiggling the forks straight.Now if tracks true the rest bending tabs etc ,Bantams were not precision made.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247

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stubaker58
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June 8, 2017 - 8:32 am
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Hi Bob,

I seem to remember having a similar issue some years ago when was rebuilding a D3 SA.  The rear wheel arrangement and getting things to fit and the speedo drive to rotate was a pain.  I see you're a club member, have a look at the parts book in the members only section, the D1/D3 1954/55/56 version.  Plate twelve (p38) shows the SA rear hub, definitely only one nut on the right with a washer rather than a spacer. It's a start anyway!

Also if the internal spacer tube was missing then one of the bearings may indeed be too far in.

I don't know how much the wheel should be dished but a good wheel builder would be able to tell you, it may then be a matter of adjusting the spokes?

hope you're able to get it sorted soon.

regards

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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sunny
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June 8, 2017 - 9:08 am
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hi  Bob      most      sharft   parts   for  s/a   are  the  same   my  d5   has a 3.5  mm thick  spacer   & nut   inside  the    s/a    wich may   sort  out  the  spacing  on  yours       

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Bob-B
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June 8, 2017 - 1:35 pm
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stubaker58 said

I seem to remember having a similar issue some years ago when was rebuilding a D3 SA.  The rear wheel arrangement and getting things to fit and the speedo drive to rotate was a pain.

I can picture the weekly works meeting now "... and the final item, this new swingarm model's a pain in the wotsits to put together" "We know Dave, but we've bought a years worth of bits, then it'll go away. Here's some extra washers."

sunny said
hi  Bob      most      sharft   parts   for  s/a   are  the  same   my  d5   has a 3.5  mm thick  spacer   & nut   inside  the    s/a    wich may   sort  out  the  spacing  on  yours         

I stripped the wheel and checked everything before leaving for home yesterday and on a cursory check it does look a bit better, the nut will go back on the other side to bring that right.

The speedo drive interfered with the chain adjuster, but 3.5mm (1/8") is about what I guessed it needed. I'll turn up a washer to that thickness before making my way home this evening.

Thanks all, I will persevere.

We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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