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A D3 Bantam Called Camilla
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Bob-B
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January 15, 2017 - 8:30 pm
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Following on from my introduction to the group ( [Permission to view this media is denied]
) I'm adding in this thread to ask questions, show photo's and generally bother people on occasionally!

A few things have come up from my introductory post, and other things I just forgot to ask, which I'd like to query further:-

- I understand that the bike is a dead mans throttle so has no kill switch; my bike has a 2 position switch on the handlebar and the H/L switch on the headlight cowl. So what's that about? I would have though one switch for the lights would be plenty? Je suis perplexed pal!

- Stopping the enjun (I'm getting somewhat premature here given that it isn't running yet!), what's the favoured method? Shut off the fuel or cut off the air?

- I'm going to assume that the rectifier is goosed, are these fixable? Is there a thread on here where it's been tried?

I've also found what would appearto be a "factory bodge"; one side of the seat has a weld stud and nut to hold it on and the other side has a captive nut and bolt!

We're all going to die, so let's be nice

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cocorico
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January 15, 2017 - 9:15 pm
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The early Bantams (D1, D3) had no provision for adjusting tick-over other than the cable adjustment on top of the carb, the idea was that the friction screw on the twist grip could be adjusted so that it didn't fully close unless you manually closed it, so that the engine would still run on a low throttle opening until you fully closed it. If you can get it to tick over using the cable adjuster it's easy to stall the engine in order to stop it, without doing any damage. It's a good idea to run the carb dry if you will not be using the bike frequently.

The lights are controlled by the switch on the headlight (side and head) and the handlebar switch (dip and main). The selenium rectifier should be chucked in the bin and a modern silicon solid-state one used instead (on a decent heat sink).

As for the 'factory bodge' - it's 60 years old, who knows what has happened during that time?

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Bob-B
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January 16, 2017 - 7:55 am
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I forgot to mention, I try to have a good reason for aquiring a classic rather than just because "I want one" or simply applying the N+1 rule. My other classic is a rather more modern 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R, purchased because this is the bike I saw in Paddock Wood garage as a lad that made me want to ride motorbikes in the first place.

The Bantam aquisition links to my dad who, in his youth, would hang around the GPO in Birmingham waiting for a telegram rider to leave their bike alone. They'd always leave it running aparently, which allowed my dad and his friends, who worked out this skill over some weeks, to start the enjun backwards, retire to a safe distance and wait for the unfortunate rider to shoot off backwards. Belatedly sorry to any ex GPO riders from Birmingham who may be on this forum!

Ideally I did want a GPO Bantam, but, this one came up first and I'm impatient!

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Bob-B
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January 16, 2017 - 9:21 pm
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Today, after cleaning the carb properly and checking there was a good spark, which there was, I decided to see if the enjun would start. I set the throttle slightly open, tickled the carb and gave it a few kicks... followed by quite a few more at different throttle openings and choke settings. Nothin! Not even a cough.

Removed the air filter and put my hand over the carb while a mate kicked it, quite a bit of fuel thrown back on my hand. I expected some, but the amount seemed a bit too much to me?

It was set up on a remote tank so I could see that around 200-250ml of fuel went in.

Removed the spark plug again and it was barely wet. Decided to remove the head to see if the ports were coked up. Actually quite clean, seen worse on much newer 4 stroke machinery! There is evidence of the fuel in the inlet ports and exhaust port. The piston itself is bone dry.

I haven't stripped and decoked the zorst yet so I supose that should be done for completeness, any other things I should take a look at?

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cocorico
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January 17, 2017 - 8:15 am
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Undo the smaller drain plug on the generator side of the crank case to drain any accumulated petroil. You could also get your mate to kick it over to see if you can feel a 'blow' through it as the piston falls.

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Bob-B
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January 17, 2017 - 9:01 am
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I'll do that over lunch and this evening will be checking the zorst.

Next will be timing; the plate is adjusted all the way in one direction.

I'm hoping the crankcase seal isn't gone but I suppose it's not too difficult to replace if required?

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cocorico
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January 17, 2017 - 10:43 am
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You can change the seal on the generator side without splitting the engine, but the other one needs an engine strip. Looking at the cylinder, it might be worthwhile anyway. Have a look at the pics on my photobucket to see the state my engine was in when I split it!

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Bob-B
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January 17, 2017 - 2:06 pm
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Could you post a link to your Photobucket for me to take a look at please?   Don't panic, found it!

TBH the cylinder is much better than the photos, the bore is clean and smooth, just a bit of carbon on the top of the piston.

I'm going to try all the obvious and simple things before splitting the enjun, I know it's not too bad to do and I kind of expected to have to, but if I don't have to it'll be a bonus.

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cocorico
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January 17, 2017 - 2:27 pm
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Despite what I found inside, both engines started OK, but were making strange whirring noises which turned out to be the flywheel cover plates loose (both of them completely free on the D1), so you may be lucky. Check the timing with the head off to be certain the crankshaft has not moved in the flywheel, there's not much else you can do. Clean the carb well, check your spark and it should go. I can tell almost immediately if it's going to fire - has a little 'life' on kick-over, if you know what I mean.

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Bob-B
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January 27, 2017 - 4:55 pm
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Still no go. Not even a cough.

Timing is fully retarded to get the gap close to right so probably some new points will help. Not 100% sure the wiring is correct and there seems to be a wire missing 'cos there's an extra ring connector on the left post. Does this look right?

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Drained the crank after each go at it and what's coming out is black.

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I'm erring towards the seals or rings having given up the ghost so it's time to give up on hoping it'll start and get stuck in to taking it to pieces. not a bad thing to do any way all things considered. Shame, my boss has got a 1930's Motobecane and we were hoping to have a (slow!) race round the industrial estate one lunch time soon.

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jess steele
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January 27, 2017 - 5:14 pm
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everything is wired up correctly on the stator for a battery lighting mag coil set up,but you only need the coil and condensor wires to the points on magneto set up for it to run,for the moment forget about the other wires on the stator as they are only for battery charging and the lights..

Could well be that the crank's timing shaft has moved and you can't get it to time up perfect.

Try closing the points down to about 8 thou,so when the piston is 1.6mm btdc you can just pull a cig paper out the points..

If you havn't already try a new or good known spark plug.....

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cocorico
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January 27, 2017 - 5:31 pm
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I wouldn't be surprised by the colour of the drainings, bearing in mind the colour of the piston head and the fact that the engine hasn’t been opened up lately.

You may have a good spark, but if it doesn't occur at the right time it just won't fire. As Jess says, try closing the points a bit if that gets you nearer the correct point. Failing that, you may have to try taking out the key between the flywheel and crank to find the correct point (look on Dimitris' D1 restoration for further details).

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Bob-B
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January 31, 2017 - 7:20 pm
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On Saturday I picked up a new set of points and spark plug from Rex Caunt, who's only a 20 minute drive away. Lovely chap (you probably all know that anyway!), I didn't have a huge amount of time to spend nattering but enjoyed it while I was there.

Installed the new points and spark plug yesterday, set the gaps (now possible to have the timing ring wotsit in the centre of the grooves) and...

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OK, so it runs badly and won't have any throttle without stalling but.. YEEEAAAASSSS!

Sounds a bit advanced, and certainly won't start reliably - my legs knackered from kicking it - so still some work to be done, but at least it does run.

Exhaust gasket is definitely goosed and seal between the downpipe and the end can is also poor so that'll need sorting for the next attempt.

What's my best course of action next with these old girls? I've currently got the throttle cable wound right out to hold it open and there's a bodged on nut from a previous owner which I've found on the cable at the throttle grip end to hold it open a little bit more, probably as a way to keep an idle. I know from other bikes I've owned that some enjuns prefer it only just cracked (idle position) and the choke on full until warm, is this enjun the same?

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jess steele
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January 31, 2017 - 8:25 pm
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jess steele said

Try closing the points down to about 8 thou,so when the piston is 1.6mm btdc you can just pull a cig paper out the points..

If you havn't already try a new or good known spark plug.....  

OOPs sorry i must have been thinking d5 .

D1 and d3 timing is 3.9 mm btdc................

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Bob-B
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February 6, 2017 - 11:09 am
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I've finally received the V5 from the DVLA and need to check what my next step is. With the bike being a 1956 (although it was only registered in 1958 according the the V5) my understanding was that it doesn't need an MOT, so I went to do the online non-Tax yet can't because it doesn't have an MOT so I couldn't complete it. I presume some other procedure has to be done? Do I have to get it registered with the club for dating first or do I need to do something with the DVLA first? Do I still have to get an MOT for it's first time back on the road in ?? years and then not bother after that?

Put simply what do I need to do and in which order?

Also, the registration plate is 7 digits rather than the 6 I was expecting with an "A" being the 7th digit. From what I've read so far this was sometimes done when issuing authorities ran out of numbers, or it's had its registration changed at some point.

Thanks for any advice on this non-oily set of questions!

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jess steele
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February 6, 2017 - 12:10 pm
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I don't know how the moting works on line(someone may be along later with them details)but if you have got the v5c and it says historic vehicle on the taxation class,you just need to down load and print off the v112 form from the dvla's web site,just fill in the box pre 1960 with an O and sign it,take this along to a post office that does vehicle tax and they'll tax the bike for you,provided you have insurance of course.....

If your v5c doesn't have historic vehicle as its taxation class still take it to the post office and they will tax the bike and send the v5c back to the dvla to get it changed to historic and you can use the bike whilst you wait for the logbook to returned

Either way you'll need to download the v112 form and fill it out....

Ps you don't need to mot the bike in any cases

hope-that-helps

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Bob-B
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February 6, 2017 - 2:10 pm
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My V5 doesn't have "Historic" for the taxation class, just "Bicycle" as normal. I'll download the V112 and find out which post office nearby can do it.

Best get some In-sewer-ants too I 'spose!

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swalsh58
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February 6, 2017 - 10:55 pm
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This is how I was told it works -

Changing tax class to Historic

Take the following documents to a Post Office that you could normally tax your vehicle at -

  • The V5C Registration Certificate. In the change section, put the tax class as Historic Vehicle, and sign and date the V5C. (Ignore any legacy note relating to DVLA Local Office.)
  • A V10 Application for a Tax Disc. On the form indicate a tax class of Historic Vehicle. (Ignore any note relating to an insurance certificate requiring to be produced).
  • Valid MoT Certificate or form V112 if the bike is exempt

 

The post office will retain the V5C and post it onto DVLA in order for them to change the tax class to Historic Vehicle and issue a new V5C. Subsequent V11 Renewal Reminders should have the tax class of Historic Vehicle.

Current bikes......1958 D5, and a 77 Suzuki GT250 being rebuilt. I have a 74 Kawasaki KH400 in the queue, along with a 58 Tiger Cub and a 1980 Honda CB400N. A 1978 Honda CB125S on the road and  I currently ride a 2011 Harley Davidson 883 Sportster

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Bob-B
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February 7, 2017 - 1:33 pm
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Sounds easy enough, I'll pop into my local post office and get it sorted.

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Bob-B
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February 7, 2017 - 6:42 pm
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I've decided that a complete strip and rebuild of the engine is in order so will put aside a weekend in the future to do that. In the meantime I'm going to look at the other areas to see what's what.

Last night was the front wheel. Lovely glazed brake shoes but otherwise quite clean. Chrome needs a clean and I'm hoping aluminium foil and water will get the wheels to an acceptable patina.

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Then popped the headlight off to look inside there. The switch seems completely goosed and won't turn, the pin twists but that's only the plastic deforming, not the actual mechanics of it moving. I'll try and recover it but think it's too far gone, the inside of the light housing is remarkably good.

What is interesting is that the wiring has clearly been cut about and seems to me like it might be from an earlier D1 direct lighting bike? While I'm not certain about this, the violet wire which has been cut is only shown on the D1/D3/D5 direct lighting wiring diagram on the Mist Green website, not the D3 battery lighting version. There are number of stray bullet connectors and chocolate blocks!

New wiring harness is now added to the list! 

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