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Willy Duwit's 1966 d7 super
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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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November 13, 2018 - 6:26 am
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Is the air hole in the tank cap clear?

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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Willy Duwit
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November 13, 2018 - 6:04 pm
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No better today. I tried the tickler. Ran it with the petrol cap loose. All the jets are standard as per the manual. The piston is stamp standard. Needle is on 2nd notch. Runs on tick over but tries to die the second the throttle is opened. Also had the barrel off and all was good. The rectifier is connected but I don't know how good it is. I have a nos one but am reluctant to fit it as I have heard you can blow them. It only runs on emergency as I have not tested the wiring other than checking everything is plugged in where it should be.

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johnsullivan
east sussex
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November 13, 2018 - 6:14 pm
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This is where being a club member pays.If you are not fully electrically sorted then you are not going to get anyfurther.You must switch over to 'I' trying to run on E is not sound.All the needed info is in the members area.To buy the literature is much dearer than your sub.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247

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nickjaxe
Runcorn Cheshire UK
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November 13, 2018 - 6:52 pm
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Would have thought if it has enough power to start the engine John...it should run it at higher rpm.

How easy does it start Willy.

Its all very odd.

try screwing the idle speed screw inwards...once its started and idling...screw in as far as it will go and see if the engine speed rises.

Not the mixture screw just the idle speed screw.

My Bantam video              https://www.you.....jpOFmzRZRI

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Mick W
Chester/ North Wales Flintshire Border
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November 13, 2018 - 9:41 pm
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Have you checked the fuel flow through the fuel tap. The filter in the tank can block and restrict flow

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November 13, 2018 - 9:56 pm
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Get your charging system sorted before trying to set carb up.Borrow a multimeter and do the relevant tests.You`re on a hiding-to-nothing/one arm tied behind your back ,mucking about on ign switch position E.

Check the little crank outrigger bush behind the points cam for wear,they get neglected for lubrication...also check for any crank run-out that can lead to that bush wearing out and c/b points bouncing all over the shop.Fit a new condenser from reputable supplier....for what they cost.

Once you have your wiring and ignition sorted,tuning your carb will be much easier....providing your crank seals aren`t on their way out.If crank is out of true,it can affect seals at higher revs.Seal behind gen rotor can be prone to failing,but you`ll see telltale oil residue in the housing.

Blue(D7 owner) 

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sunny
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November 14, 2018 - 9:26 am
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hi  the  needle  is  set high    for  the   monobloc carb    as  it  was    NEVER     serplyed  as  a  two stroke    carb ,, set  in the  4th   from the  top  ,,cleane  the  two   pilot  jet  pasage ways    one  in each   body part    WITHOUT   making    them  any   biger     then  reset  the  carb  wen  fited    ,,   all  bantams   run    RICH on petrol           

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johnsullivan
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November 14, 2018 - 11:23 am
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I think the rectifier is shot.The D10's old plate rectifier has died now with much the same symptom of unwillingness to pull,new modern fitted off we go as would expect.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247

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Willy Duwit
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November 15, 2018 - 11:50 am
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This morning I fitted the nos rectifier and checked the main wiring. It fired up all lumpy, then I switched from e to I and it ran properly, revved nicely, then went bang. After taking it apart I found a small piece of the bottom ring had broken off. It was stuck in the head. There is no visible damage to the barrel and minimal to the head and piston.

So do I just buy new rings or a new piston as well or, do I get a rebore etc. 

When measuring the ring gap for the remaining two rings it looks to be about 5mm. The manual says it should be .013 max.

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johnsullivan
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November 15, 2018 - 12:19 pm
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you may be lucky .check the piston top for any markings indicating a previous rebore order appropriate new rings.I would open the crankcase drain plug and flush through too .because... how much of the bottom ring stayed put? Carefully clean the ring grooves fit rings refit barrel do a decoke as normal; off you go.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247

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Willy Duwit
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November 15, 2018 - 1:01 pm
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The amount of help here is amazing, and the available parts. New piston and gasket set on its way.

A question on searching the forum; can you use special characters to search words together I.e. (d7 forks seals) or is it a word per search?

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Willy Duwit
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November 17, 2018 - 6:48 pm
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New piston and rings etc. arrived less than 24hrs after ordering. Thanks RCR. No time until Tuesday to fit.

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Willy Duwit
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November 21, 2018 - 9:53 am
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I fitted the new piston and rings. Runs nicely, starting on E then onto I, revs as expected.  Loads more compression.

Next up is sorting the headlight. 

Can anyone point me in the right direction for the correct install of the headlight into the chrome ring and onto the painted ring then switch holder. Either a previous thread or a photo?

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johnsullivan
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November 21, 2018 - 2:21 pm
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Good news .Photo of your current headlamp shell would help.There is a sort of connector ring on the mouth of the shell ..it goes missing .I have to either find one or make a work around for the D7.The Wipac and Lucas have slight but annoying differences .

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247

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johnsullivan
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November 21, 2018 - 2:22 pm
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PS join the club it's all there in the Members Section.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247

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Willy Duwit
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November 21, 2018 - 7:26 pm
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So, first attempt at uploading a photo. The lamp was sort of complete until I touched it, now I can't see how it goes back together . The headlight was already loose and there was only one w clip[Permission to view this image is denied]

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johnsullivan
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November 21, 2018 - 7:43 pm
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you need at least 3 w clips. you can rob the greenhouse I do.The problem lies at the top  with the 'clip '.Carefully take the glass and rim off.at the top of the  inner rim is a clip with a set screw in .looking now at the chrome ring there will be a cut out to receive the clip.make sure the lens and the cut out align.offer the glass and rim up at 30degrees you will find it fits over the inner flanges rotate to vertical you should feel it grip.tighten top clip...This is one of those things which on the Bantam gets messed about with and it may be quite awkward.You may or may not havet he top clip but two little side  additional screws  which hold the lens and the ring just screws on..Have a few dry runs ,Starting on I yet ..  get some charge in that battery...Thanks for keeping us up to date.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247

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Willy Duwit
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December 6, 2018 - 12:49 pm
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Received my new light/horn switch, w clips and headlight surround clip. All fitted nicely. No rear lights, took the lens off - NO BULB. postage is dearer than the bulb!

[Permission to view this image is denied]

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johnsullivan
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December 6, 2018 - 1:05 pm
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could you  dip please.I see you too have a cycle lamp.Good idea I think.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247

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nickjaxe
Runcorn Cheshire UK
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December 6, 2018 - 1:33 pm
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Willy your ring gap from the manual.

0.013"...I think thats thous of an inch not mm. with a min of 0.009"

You sure you have 5MM at present? thats huge.

Nick.

My Bantam video              https://www.you.....jpOFmzRZRI

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