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1957 D3 SA
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BSAdave
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September 21, 2017 - 8:16 am
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On Monday 18/09/2017 I picked up a new project A 1957 D3 swinging arm Bantam, It was purchased in 2012 by the previous owner with the intention of restoring it, but it never got done, it is as far as I can tell in the original paint, and it will stay like this, the engine has been completely stripped down. It came with a dating certification from the  Society of automotive historians and was complied my a certain gentleman by the name of Mr Michael Worthington Williams.

Having taken time to look over the bike it don't need that much doing to it, I think the engine cases are not serviceable due to the damge ??

I have a spare set of D3 engine cases, I found a dealer stick on the rear mudguard it is very faded but you can make out it says,

" R J  Ware and sons" any one know where these were/ are ??

For some unexplained reason the tyres have been put on the wrong way round, The ribbed front tyre is fitted to the rear and vice versa , these were both flat but I pumped them up and they are both holding air.

What was missing: the main stand, the chain guard, the horn, the rear brake operating link, the gear lever the kick start lever the front wheel nuts, all the operating cables, most of these parts I have. i will have a go at making the rear brake operating link, I have one fitted to my other D3 and looking at it it should not be too hard to make one, I might have had a bit of luck with the chain guard.

Still need the centre stand.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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September 21, 2017 - 8:48 am
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The engine case, looks like a screw as come out and wedged in the case at some point that could well be from the outer case as one the internal lugs is broken, the one that sits behind the generator fly wheel. The bike came with two barrels one measures 51mm and the other 57mm, I presume the 51mm is a 125cc ??

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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September 21, 2017 - 8:54 am
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Forgot to add the pictures of the bike.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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sunny
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September 21, 2017 - 9:24 am
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hi Dave    well  done  once  more      R J  Ware  & sons  , 69  Commercial  st      Newport ,,  MOn    it  looks  look  the  Oil seal   had   to  come  out    the   hard  way        ,i have  some   NEW  stil  in box   chrome  legs   ect    for  sale   if   needed        i  see  its  got a D7   silncer   & uther   bits      regards   

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BSAdave
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September 21, 2017 - 9:34 am
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Thank you for the information, so it started it's life in Wales, Don't suppose you have a rear brake lever arm part number 90-6140 ?

or the rear brake link arm 90-7017, as for the engine i's not going to chance it and going to build it into the spare D3 cases that I have.

 

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Piquet
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September 21, 2017 - 9:47 am
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The damage to the case was probably caused by someone trying to remove the flywheel without a proper extractor by inserting a screw/bolt between the case and flywheel (check the back of the flywheel) through the drain hole, a well known, old time bodge!

You would probably get away with home 'alloy welding' (Lumiweld, Alutite, Technoweld, HTS-2000 or similar?) or even filling it with JB weld or similar, it only holds the oil seal.

I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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jess steele
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September 21, 2017 - 10:16 am
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I make the brake compensator's myself,all you need is a bit of the steel footrest tubing(20mm long and a piece of flat bar 4mm thick.

I also have quite a lot of bits for the d3 swinger rear brake arm,chain tensioners,chain guard etc etc but they wouldn't be cheap as bits are hard to find for these..good project though..

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BSAdave
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September 21, 2017 - 10:47 am
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jess steele said
I make the brake compensator's myself,all you need is a bit of the steel footrest tubing(20mm long and a piece of flat bar 4mm thick.

I also have quite a lot of bits for the d3 swinger rear brake arm,chain tensioners,chain guard etc etc but they wouldn't be cheap as bits are hard to find for these..good project though..  

 Cheers, I will have a go at making the brake thing, along with the rear seat bracket , I have the chain adjusters, and might now have the chain guard, Dragonfly have the rear brake arm .

And don't worry no Honda part are going near this one.  LOL

Did you see the D3 SA on ebay with the grey seat ?

Regards,

Dave

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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September 21, 2017 - 10:50 am
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Piquet said
The damage to the case was probably caused by someone trying to remove the flywheel without a proper extractor by inserting a screw/bolt between the case and flywheel (check the back of the flywheel) through the drain hole, a well known, old time bodge!

You would probably get away with home 'alloy welding' (Lumiweld, Alutite, Technoweld, HTS-2000 or similar?) or even filling it with JB weld or similar, it only holds the oil seal.  

Cheers for that. I'm not going to risk it. Do you know if the dating letter will still be of use as it was done in 2012 ?

Dave

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Piquet
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September 21, 2017 - 11:54 am
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You will need a new Dating Certificate, they are only valid with DVLA for (I think) 6 months, certainly not from 2012.

I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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jess steele
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September 21, 2017 - 11:57 am
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BSAdave said

Did you see the D3 SA on ebay with the grey seat ?

Regards,

Dave  

Yes,that d3 was being offered on the fb pages,its not the right seat for the d3 swinger,its off d1-d3 plunger and quite a few bits ain't correct on it...

I think he'll get his money for it though,which will make me feel a lot happier with what mine has cost to build,its the dearest bantam i own ....

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BSAdave
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September 22, 2017 - 11:50 am
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Centre stand,

I had two broken ones, both of which had snapped off in the same place, my welding is rubbish so I knew I had no chance of welding the bit back on, I had a go at this some time ago and it lasted less than a day. I had a re think, I cut the good leg of stand off at a bout half way then found a long bolt with only a short bit of thread on it that fitted perfectly inside the legs , I cut the thread off and the bolt head off inserted this all  the way down the leg with enough of it left so the cut part of the stand could be sat on top of it. I then welded it all together , not pretty but it works. nothing ventured nothing gained, later on I will have a go at making the brake part.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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The Bushman
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September 22, 2017 - 12:46 pm
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good job done dave well done mate , I am looking for  D1 centre stand for my other project bike lol

john. p.s. thanks for the choke lever I cant remember if I thanked you or not buddy.

old

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Mags 1
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September 23, 2017 - 1:58 am
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The Bushman said
good job done dave well done mate , I am looking for  D1 centre stand for my other project bike lol

john. p.s. thanks for the choke lever I cant remember if I thanked you or not buddy.

old  

Look at the 'for sale' section, I've got one there.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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BSAdave
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September 27, 2017 - 9:14 am
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Up and downs of getting it road worthy .

Had a go at making the rear brake link and the metal support bracket for the seat.

Not the right shape just yet.

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Now bent into a shape that resembles a set fixing bracket and in primmer.

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Rear brake link made and fitted. (Thanks for the info Jess)

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Front tank mounting peg made from a old bolt cut down and a notch made so the bolt can hold it i place, when i got the bike for some strange reason a grease nipple was fitted here, Why ???

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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September 27, 2017 - 9:22 am
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The petrol tank was removed as there was a lot of rust to the underside inside panels of the tank, this was treated with phosphoric acid , primed and then sprayed black you will not see the new paint once it is fitted to the bike. while I was at it I removed the tyres and gave the inside of the rims the same treatment , don't want rust to cause a puncture.

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so far so good........

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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September 27, 2017 - 9:39 am
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And now when it didn't go to plan:

  The front forks were locked solid. The springs were not attached to the top mounting peg, I managed to get this one out the other one is jammed in so tight it just wont come out, so I had no choice but to use a spare one that i had but that is in grey grrrr.

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Looking at the pictures it has dawned on me the the springs I fitted don't have the rubber bit that runs inside the springs,

This is as far as the spring will come out.

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I spent an hour looking for a bolt long enough to hold the chain guard on with no luck.

I'm also in the middle of building a stud wall to divide the shed into two so every thing is all a mess the moment which is not helping along with my dodgy knee progress is very slow.

Today I'm going to finish the engine rebuild.

I don't want to fit the engine until I get two new tyres and fit them. I plan on going to kempton at the end of the month and purchase two new tyres,tubes and the foot rest rubbers and a few other bits and pieces. 

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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October 1, 2017 - 9:15 am
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Sorted out the spring stuck in the leg so now have the original black leg back on, I managed to get it out along with the bushes and spacers.

The grey leg is the same diameter and length as the original black leg but the thread for the top nut is different to the original, at first I thought the thread was knackered but I found the original nut for the grey leg and it screwed right in, Some where along the way BSA must have changed the thread size.

While I had the forks apart I changed the rubber gaiters these came new with the bike, they were easy to fit, they are made of a much more flexible rubber than the ones I fitted to the other bikes which I purchased of E bay, they went on so easy. The E bay ones are stiff and not that flexible, I would like to now where they came from.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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October 1, 2017 - 9:27 am
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With the forks all sorted out I fitted the front mudguard and put the wheel in place, when I spun the wheel there was a nasty noise coming from the bearings, you could hear metal on metal, the wheel when held and rocked had a lot of side way play, From safety point of view this was unacceptable. So new bearings where fitted. What a dirty horrible job. 

With this new bearings in place no more play and a nice quite wheel. I checked the rear wheel and that was fine. I'm going to replace the grease nipples all around the bike so my modern grease gun will fit, I bought a bag of ten of these so time ago and have changed them on all my Bantams. Service sheet 508 gives a more detailed description, this is available in the tech section if you are member and a very good reason to become a member.

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The lock ring with left handed thread.

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The old bearings, it feel apart, no wonder it was making a noise.

 

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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October 6, 2017 - 4:56 pm
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A tale of seats.

The bike came with what was clearly the wrong seat. the front bracket was wrong etc etc, Now I had the red seat that came with the D5 that had the right front bracket but the rear fixing bolts didn't line up with the correct mounting points and it would look out of place all clean.

So the search began to find the right seat and one become available . the base was very rusty but sound, the foam was shot to bits and the foam had collapsed by over a inch and lucky for me the seat cover had been cavered up and re clipped. the foam was in right old state and beyond redemption. I didn't want a clean restored seat has it would not look right, the seat I got has got bag full of patina and will look the part. but I wanted to make sure it was safe and didn't rust away before my eyes so:

I stripped the seat and removed the rust my means of a rotary wire wheel attached to my drill then a coat or two of rust preventer and when this had cured it was sprayed in a primmer. 

How the seat arrived.

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You can see the cover has been fitted over the shrunken foam.

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The wrong seat.

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what was left of the foam. not a pretty site.

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The inside of the cover.

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you can see how much height has been lost to the seat.

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rust converter painted on

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The front seat bracket.

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More rust prevention.

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in primmer.

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Here you can see the difference of the front of the seats:

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now I have to sort out the foam issue, i was going to try and use the foam from the seat that came with the bike but the front shape is different , I will wait to see how it looks once the paint has dried or I might see if I can get a replacement foam.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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