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1949 D1 Valentine project
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Hans Kreuzen
Queensland Australia
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March 18, 2015 - 10:24 am
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I am pretty sure that that fan is used on later D1-D3 's definitely not your 49 rigid.

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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BSAdave
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March 22, 2015 - 10:41 am
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After my problems with the bearings and doing a Clarkson with the bike I took a brake from it. Until yesterday when the new seal turned up, I damaged the previous seal that sits between the two right hand side casing bearings removing the offending out side incorrect bearing, I had posted the problem in the technical section and it did not appear to me that  sanding down the crank to fit the bearing was the correct way to go., The only two bearings that showed any problems was the two inner main bearings so in the end I reused the original outer bearing.

Now it was time to put the two half's back together after learning from my mistake I decided to do a dry run. And boy am I glad I did. This time the fault was with the gear selector, with the engine apart it would select all three gears with out a problem, once the two half's were married the gears would select but when it was in neutral the shaft could be pushed inwards and then it would not select the gears you had to wobble it about to get it in the right place for it to work, this was clearly wrong. so I took it apart and the only conclusion I can come to is the the selceter fork is too far away from the ratchet plate. After giving it much thought I had almost forgot about the D3 engine with the broken crank shaft that I had in the lock up that i went and fetched it. I will dismantle this engine and rob the bits from this engine, looking at the gear change shaft on the D3 engine I can see that the splines are in a much better condition than my ones. The whole problem I have had with this bike is that I bought it completely dismantled even the engine so I am always struggling to work out what goes where and never owned a rigid framed bantam or rebuilt an engine does not help.

Hopefully on Monday the clutch holding tool will turn up so I can remove the clutch basket and strip the D3 engine down and then I will have an idea what is wrong.

I could do with some help regarding the rear light wiring, I presume the wiring runs up inside the mudguard but where does it exit? also can any tell me where the rear brake light switch fits. At the moment I do not have a switch so which one do i get ?

Hopefully i have not bored you all to death.

Lesson learned, don't buy a bike in bits unless you know the bike inside and out.

Thank you every one with out your help it would have been left in the boxes.

By the way the D3 does not have the broken bit on the left hand case like all the others that I have seen. If it was not for the fact that this part carries the engine number i would have used these cases.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Hans Kreuzen
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March 22, 2015 - 11:49 am
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bsadave said 
I could do with some help regarding the rear light wiring, I presume the wiring runs up inside the mudguard but where does it exit? also can any tell me where the rear brake light switch fits. At the moment I do not have a switch so which one do i get ?
 
Lesson learned, don't buy a bike in bits unless you know the bike inside and out.
 

Hi Dave

I welded lugs inside my rear guard to run the wires through, but originally it was just mounted and followed the rear guard stay and frame, The brake switch is fitted to the frame, someone I'm sure will post a pic. switch is readily available from all supliers.

As for buying a bike in bits, I did the same, one big jigsaw puzzle, keep up the good work, one step back two steps forward, it is going to look awesome when your all done, Hanswave

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Hans Kreuzen
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March 22, 2015 - 11:53 am
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Here is my bad pic. of the switch[Permission to view this image is denied]

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  • sp_PlupImage Our-D1-12.12-1.JPG(27 KB)

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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BSAdave
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March 22, 2015 - 11:55 am
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Thank you Hans.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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March 22, 2015 - 11:57 am
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This is what happened, well sort of.

[Permission to view this media is denied]

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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March 26, 2015 - 3:28 pm
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Despite what I thought this morning I found some time to get the engine in the frame. but that is all about I did.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Hans Kreuzen
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March 26, 2015 - 9:21 pm
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Can't believe how quick your rebuilt is, It's looking great, Hansthumbs-up

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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BSAdave
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March 30, 2015 - 9:18 pm
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I spent all of today mucking about with trying to get a spark, I have four old mags and not one of them would work. The lighting coils are cooked and beyond repair. I did mange to get a rather weak spark with one of them and me thinking it could be the condenser, I ended up taking the working one from the other Bantam and trying that and still a rather very weak orange spark every now and then.  So pricing up all the bits I would need to get a working electric set up I have come to the conclusion that a electronic system with lighting coils would be the way to go. I have done a bit of research and decided that the Bones cdi unit looks like a good way to go. I have sent a pm to him and am waiting for a reply.

Once I have got it all up and running then the fun with the DVLA will start with trying to get the original number plate back and a V5.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Bournemouth Bantams
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March 30, 2015 - 10:50 pm
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As long as you have some archive paperwork to back up your claim for the original number then it should be no problem, archive paperwork is an old MOT, Tax disc, old Log book or archive paperwork from the original issuing county council.

If you have no paperwork to back up the claim then the DVLA will not allow you to retain the original number, having the number plate does not qualify.

If you have paperwork then you can start the process now as the bike is in a complete enough condition to satisfy the DVLA requirements. You do not have to have the bike, insured, finished or even running to re claim a number.  

"H"

Supplier and stockist of Bantam spares.

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BSAdave
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March 31, 2015 - 6:28 am
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Thank you for that I do have the old buff log book and a tax disk from 1964.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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March 31, 2015 - 11:36 am
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I fitted the tank as this will make it easier to fit the transfers and to spray the clear coat, and as the throttle had turned up in the post I went to fit that only to find that the throttle cable does not fit, the length is ok it is the inner part that is too short. If that makes sense?

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This is how it stands at the moment, I was going to take it outside to take some better pictures for the dating office but it is soo windy and I am worried it will get blown over so this will also have to wait.

I am still waiting for the chain and headlight rim to turn up.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Bournemouth Bantams
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March 31, 2015 - 11:00 pm
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The problem with the cable may well not be a error in the cable, there are many diameter inner sections to throttle assemblies the larger the dia of the section the inner cable rotates round then the larger the difference has to be between the inner and outer cable.

The original throttle assembly also had a collet retainer where the outer cable joins the body which meant the outer cable was recessed in the body, most of the new replacement items have adjusters which hold the outer cable further away from the body, again requiring a greater difference between the inner and outer cable.

"H"   

Supplier and stockist of Bantam spares.

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BSAdave
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April 2, 2015 - 2:49 pm
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Another day and another cable that don't fit, This time it is the clutch cable, does any one know of a place that makes the correct cable that fits the welded lugs, I have fitted the farrel but the inner length is too short and after ruining the throttle cable trying to shorten the outer part i don't fancy trying this again.

The list of ill fitting pattern parts grows longer by the day.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Derek's D5
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April 2, 2015 - 3:51 pm
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We hear your pain. I had the same trouble with my new throttle cable from C&D and it took two goes to find a replacement twistgrip assembly that would work with the new cable. As Howard said, a slight difference in the thickness of the twistgrip (where the cable winds around) makes a huge difference when you connect the cable. New ones have a threaded adjuster as part of the package. Old ones just have a collar that stops the cable outer slipping inside the twistgrip (you can still get these little collars, only a couple of quid, but they are easily lost if you get a broken cable). I also have a small cable adjuster on top of the carb to take up some slack- but mine's a 375/31 so your carb might not have one.

Clutch cable- there was a post about these very recently, and someone replied with the contact details of a guy who will supply cables that fit! I think I saw that post this morning. Will try to find it now...

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Derek's D5
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April 2, 2015 - 4:04 pm
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Here it is...

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BSAdave
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April 2, 2015 - 5:23 pm
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Thank you Dookie, it is very frustrating when these things happen, and not having the old one i have no reference to what the new one should look like or even the measurements . I will give them a call on Tuesday.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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April 6, 2015 - 12:31 pm
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Saturday the new chain turned up in the post I went to fit it and found that it was too long, I soon sorted that out and took a link and half out of it, the next problem, the chain rubs the rear mudguard. Not sure what to do about this other than moving  the bottom centre bolt and re-drilling the mudguard and move it over. or have i fitted some thing wrong?  see picture. ignore the foot rest i have not yet pushed he rubber all the way on just in case ???

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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April 6, 2015 - 5:37 pm
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After I posted the last one about the chain I then gave it some thought and removed the rear wheel and re drilled the bottom centre bolt hole which moved the mudguard over by 12mm which is enough for the chain to not rub. Job done.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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April 7, 2015 - 1:23 pm
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Massive step backwards.

Late yesterday afternoon I gave the petrol tank a second coat of clear top coat, then went to work when I got up this morning and took a look all of the paint had bubbled up and lifted in some places, the whole paint job is ruined and will have to be done again.

Not a happy person. Just have not got a clue how this happened or why

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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