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1949 D1 Valentine project
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Hans Kreuzen
Queensland Australia
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March 5, 2015 - 11:45 am
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The paint absorbs the moisture in the air as it dries, as soon as this happens you should not recoat it again but polish it out instead, unless you sand all the milky look of again you can recoat.

I just posted my rigid pictures in the projects section., See ya'h Hans

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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BSAdave
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March 7, 2015 - 5:23 pm
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Thank you for that Hans,

Today I got the front end back on, A top tip coming up “Don’t try and place the ball bearings into the steering steam while the bike is on the lawn.”

I had purchased a complete set of ball bearings for the front end, I had given the frame a coat of clear coat, so it was time to fit the forks and yoke back on. I took the bike out into the sunshine and applied new grease into the bottom carrier and outer bearing cap I placed the new bearings into the grease then disaster struck, the wind picked up and knocked the mudguard that was drying off after applying the clear coat over, then as I grabbed that I dropped the cap with the bearings, now you would think it would be easy to locate the bearings ? no it was not. Second go it all went well, front forks and frame reunited at last.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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March 10, 2015 - 6:02 pm
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Today the two new tyres I had ordered turned up. I purchased two Mitas H-01 2.75-19 tyres at a bargain price of £29 each including postage. I had already got two new inner tubes and rim tape.

So it was a case of just getting on with it and fitting them.  I then fitted the rear wheel to the frame, once I had worked out which bits went were it all went in the frame with no problem, I connected up the rear brake. Feeling quite pleased with my self I went to fit the front wheel, I soon realised I had some bits missing or I was fitting it wrong. Does any one have a picture on how it should fit with regarding the spacers.

I am still missing one of the front mudguard stays so I found an old Bantam front mudguard I had lying about and removed the stays, then cutting them up and welding them together I ended up with a stay, not ideal but it will do until I can find a replacement one. Then the fun started I compressed the front forks and they did not return I have posted for some help in the technical section

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The stay.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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March 11, 2015 - 12:36 pm
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Two steps forward and 5 backwards,

I sorted the problem of the forks with help from the good people on here, I had re assembled the front wheel wrong.

The next problem , I was spraying the second coat of clear coat onto the mudguards and the paint started to react and bubble up.

I have run out of green paint, so for today I am giving up as i am on my night shift this week and will take a look at it on Friday,

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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March 12, 2015 - 5:20 pm
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Managed to get the rear mudguard and handle bars fitted today.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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The Bushman
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March 12, 2015 - 5:26 pm
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looking good dave clapclapthumbs-up

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BSAdave
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March 13, 2015 - 4:43 pm
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Today I had a go at spraying the ivory panel on the petrol tank. I think I have made the panel too big. I have still to paint the red pin strip, should be fun. While that was drying I fitted the new seat,rear light, rear brake rod and handle bar levers.

Almost forgot, I also sprayed the chain guard. And ordered a new set of Engine mounting bolts from Howard at Bournemouth Bantams.

Next job is to start on the engine rebuild. Expect lots of questions. LOL thumbs-up

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I added the BSA word in paint-shop pro just to see what it would look like.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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March 14, 2015 - 5:25 pm
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Today I got a lot of the little jobs out of the way.

Connected up both the brakes only to realise that I fitted the front brake on the right and not on the left so I will have to change this. in the picture it is correct but since the picture was taken I had to remove the wheel to tighten up the spindle nuts and because I had the bike upside down I got my self all confused.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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mike norris
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March 15, 2015 - 11:28 pm
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Just a thought. I bought one of those extendable magnets, being aged I find it useful when things get dropped especially in the grass it saves getting on my hands and knees.

Mike

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BSAdave
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March 16, 2015 - 12:51 pm
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This morning I painted the red pin stripe onto the petrol tank. it did not come out too bad but will need a little bit of work on the back curve as it didn't come out too good. Here is the good side the other side need a lot more work. I'm rubbish at all this painting lark, I will be glad when this is finished. I need to find the correct tank transfers as I understand the 1948 model didn't have the ones with the Bantam on them.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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March 16, 2015 - 7:49 pm
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It was time to start on the engine. First I checked that all the gear box gears and shafts were present, I then put the gear box together and all was well. Then it was on to the main crankshaft bearings, the right hand one appeared OK but the inner left one was a bit stiff I sprayed some oil down the oil way and spun the bearing up to speed using  my drill using a cunning device. The amount of rust and dirt that came out of the bearing was unbelievable. I then checked the bearing again although it was rotated a lot better it had a very obvious tight spot and to be honest just didn't feel right.  I repeated this process on the right hand side one this one is fine.

It was a easy decision to make, so I have ordered a complete bearing and seal kit. While the engine is apart it would be plan stupid to not change them and the engine as been split for a long time and not covered up so I guess the rubber seals would have hardened up and the amount of dirt that would have entered the engine would be considerable.

Now I just need to wait for the postman to bring me my bits so I can crack on with the engine rebuild.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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dimitris
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March 16, 2015 - 8:18 pm
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Tank came out really good.. It's so hard to achieve those curves with masking tape...dunno
And especially those thin red lines.. were also nightmare for me..
Good luck with the engine... 

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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BSAdave
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March 17, 2015 - 9:18 am
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Thank you. After reading about your troubles I hope i don't have the same problem.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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March 17, 2015 - 11:07 am
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Today I removed the seals and big end bearings this went with out any problems until I noticed that there is a bit broke of the engine casing,

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Can any thing be done about this?

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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March 17, 2015 - 11:29 am
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No wonder the bearing  was not running smooth.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Iain
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March 17, 2015 - 12:20 pm
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The case could be repaired by welding, but it would be a bit tricky.

 

One of my engines had the same problem, the previous owner built a replacement web in some kind of filler (god knows how!) and it works okay, I suppose it's only there to stop water grease etc flying off the chain and going into the magneto / alternator.

 

Maybe a piece of metal cut to shape and held in place with metal epoxy, filler or putty might do

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Maddog Leary
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March 17, 2015 - 1:17 pm
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I think most if not all Bantam engines of the D1 & D3 varieties have a breakage of this type.  Usually it's down to a thrown chain due to wear on the sprocket, incorrect tensioning or a chain break.  Both my Bantam engines have similar breakages and the replacement cases viewed all had similar damage.  There was a thread a while back relating to repairs, will try to locate it.

MD cheers

Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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cocorico
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March 17, 2015 - 2:26 pm
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bsadave said
Today I removed the seals and big end bearings this went with out any problems until I noticed that there is a bit broke of the engine casing,
 
Can any thing be done about this?

My D3 had the same (and also Hans, I think). I put it down to damage from a broken chain. I can't see that it would affect running unless you expect to do a lot of wet / muddy riding. I have repaired mine with a strip of aluminium and some plastic metal.

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Hans Kreuzen
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March 17, 2015 - 8:59 pm
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Hi Dave

Look on my page on how I fixed my broken casing, ** Please log in to view ** page 4.

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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BSAdave
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March 18, 2015 - 10:18 am
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Thank you for that, had me worried for a bit. I will have to find a bit of scrap alloy and give this a go.

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In this picture of yours there is a fan thing on the end of the crank, should there be one on mine, I also see that you have mig welded the stuffer plates on, would that be OK to do to my ones?

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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