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1949 D1 Valentine project
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BSAdave
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February 20, 2015 - 12:38 pm
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I appear to have posts about this project all over the place so have decided to put all my posts on this from now on in one place.

I picked up the bike on Saturday 14/02/2015, so from now on I think it should be called the Valentine project.

The po owner had owned it from when he was sixteen, it was purchased for him by his Dad. He is now in his late 70's. It was last on the road in 1964. It came with the original Buff coloured log book.

Since I picked it up I have manly been working over time to help pay for all the work that is needed. lol

I have sorted all the parts out and made a mental list of all the bits that are missing or broken.

So far I have purchased a new seat, mudguards and stays. The bulb horn, Red oxide primmer,Fork gaiters,engine screw set.

I have been trying for the last two days to place a order with Rex Caunt for various engine parts but from the answer phone message I take it no one is in the office hence no replys to the E mails.

So far I have posted in other parts of the forum about the stuffer plates. So I will need to get these fixed in place.

The bike came with three different D shaped speedos, one of which is slightly different from the other two in that it starts with 5 MPH where as the other two start with 10 MPH.  I suspect that the 5MPH is the correct one. 

The centre stand is broken but the broken top lug is there so this will need welding up. all the cables will need replacing, new clutch plates will be needed as the friction material is fallen out of the metal part[Permission to view this image is denied]

 

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  • sp_PlupImage mud-guard.JPG(221 KB)
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  • sp_PlupImage exhaust.JPG(191 KB)
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  • sp_PlupImage headlight.JPG(228 KB)
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  • sp_PlupImage more-bits.JPG(191 KB)
  • sp_PlupImage clutch-plate.JPG(83 KB)

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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cocorico
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February 20, 2015 - 2:59 pm
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Best of luck with it Dave, I think I said somewhere that a 1949 D1 would be my ideal, being born that year.

In the meantime, I'll have to put up with the 1956 D3!

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CharlieCeng
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February 20, 2015 - 3:05 pm
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That looks like a very early one Dave, not many Bantams have cork clutch plates. Do you mind telling us the engine number?

cheers for now,

Simon.

 

'42 Ariel W/NG, '58 Ariel Huntmaster, Masquerading D3, '51 Ariel Square Four Mk1 http://ariel-sq.....ogspot.com

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Piquet
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February 20, 2015 - 3:54 pm
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Most of the important hard to find/expensive bits look to be there. D1's were originally fitted with a 55mph speedo, the other two will probably fund a good proportion of the rebuild! thumbs-upI don't think any Bantam used a bracket so that one is probably from a different model (C11?) or Make.

Looks like you have both a Wipac Genimag and a Wipac S55 Mk8 Generator. They are interchangeable as complete sets, but be sure you use the correct flywheel for whichever you decide to use. The flywheels look similar with the same dimensions and fitting, but they are different.

Have a look here

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I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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richard14950
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February 20, 2015 - 4:18 pm
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bsadave said

I have been trying for the last two days to place a order with Rex Caunt for various engine parts but from the answer phone message I take it no one is in the office hence no replys to the E mails.

Rex Caunt unfortunately is struggling to cope at the minute as Debbie is recovering from major surgery . Rex is usualy in his office as early as 6am and stays quite late in the evening . Sometimes he goes out of the office to maybe get parts out of his storage area to try and keep up with the backlog of orders he has. You may be lucky to catch Debbs herself between 10 and 12 as she tries to catch up on invoicing but it is a struggle for her.
 

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BSAdave
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February 20, 2015 - 5:06 pm
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Thank you for the replys,

 Richard, thank you for the information regarding Rex, I have bought parts from them before and have never had any problems, there service is excellent. I will try again next week,its not like I have not got any thing to be getting on with.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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dimitris
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February 20, 2015 - 7:18 pm
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Nice project! Will you replace all the bolts/nuts with new??

I also ordered many things from Rex Count and they have excellent service.. last one was before 2-3 days, and its on the way..

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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kiwi bantam
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February 20, 2015 - 7:55 pm
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You have a nice project there , more than enough to keep you out of mischief for a while. I see someone has cut into your back guard, i pressume to fit a wider tyre, mine is the same but i trimmed it up nice and it looks fine. When you are further along with your rebuild and if you want to part with one of your speedos i would love to buy it from you. keep the photos coming .

Neill

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dimitris
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February 20, 2015 - 9:01 pm
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Didn't see the tank anywhere... but considering to the condition of the rest parts, i assume you have  some rust in there too?
3 speedos?? You will not have problem get good money for them, but check what is working and what is not first...dunno

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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cocorico
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February 20, 2015 - 9:10 pm
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CharlieCeng said
That looks like a very early one Dave, not many Bantams have cork clutch plates. Do you mind telling us the engine number?

I beg to differ Charlie, my 1956 D3 had cork lined plates: [Permission to view this media is denied]
o=56

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BSAdave
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February 21, 2015 - 10:00 am
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Yesterday I was spurred on to actuality get some thing done.  The first job was to move most of the parts from my lock-up to the workshop (garden shed). then I welded the top bracket back onto the main stand, sanded it back to bare metal and gave it  coat of red oxide paint. While that was drying I set about the frame, although the pictures make it look much rustier than it is. It is not that bad, so it was more sanding and then treating the service rust with Krust. I did the top yoke, tool box and rear rack. The petrol tank as very little rust on the inside. it is pity the metal work as all been hand painted with the plum colour paint as I like the look of vintage bike with the patina. but all that will be lost now.

With regard to the speedos I will not be selling any just yet as I want to find out which ones work.

I managed to find the points cam that I thought was missing, it was inside the tool box.

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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February 22, 2015 - 11:16 am
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I now have the frame rack tool box and yoke sprayed in red oxide primmer, I started work on the petrol tank, which involved a lot of sanding, The rust spots were treated with Krust, the tank has a couple of little dents that will need filling.

I have been looking for the Mist Green paint and after a bit of a search on the internet I found a blog where the owner had used Vauxhall leaf green paint code 43L, 344 and he states it is a very good match, Any one  used this colour on there D1 ?

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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February 22, 2015 - 12:52 pm
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After my cartful preparation of the frame and spraying I have realised that I never took a rubbing of the frame number.

So today I removed the paint to get to the number, The number is readable but I am having trouble trying to get a good rubbing of the number. Any tips?

I took a photo but that didn't come out too well but you can read it just, YD1 100 ** I can see the last two numbers but thought it not best to post it here.

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  • sp_PlupImage frame-nuber.JPG(644 KB)

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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BSAdave
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March 4, 2015 - 6:02 pm
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I have spent the last five days grinding,sanding and spraying. What a dirty job removing 66 years of grime, paint, rust and general filth. Not a job I want to do again in a while. I have also been sourcing parts that will be required. I don't even want to look at my credit card statement. 

The Frame has been primed and the first coat of the green as gone on along with the tool box rear rack and mudguard stays.

The petrol tank as been filled sanded primed then sanded again. Both wheels were jet washed tyres removed and de greened sanded down and given a coat of primmer. Ideally I should fit new rims and spokes but these will have to do for the tome being, I

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I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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dimitris
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March 5, 2015 - 8:29 am
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Pain job, but will worth it in the end...thumbs-up

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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Hans Kreuzen
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March 5, 2015 - 9:52 am
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It is looking good Dave, It is a lot of sanding and prepping to get it all ready for topcoat, Are you going to put the BSA logo on the tank or the chook?

Keep up the good work, Hansthumbs-up

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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BSAdave
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March 5, 2015 - 11:10 am
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Hi Hans, not sure which is the correct logo, but that is a job that will be left until much later, I have just spent an hour looking for the correct way to fit the main stand spring and fitments I gave up and came and done a search on here and found a very good write up with pictures on the correct way to fit it. so that is now done,  clapJust got to work out how to fit the foot brake spring.

One thing is becoming clear I definitely don't have all the nuts and bolts I need.

I also need the weather to warm up so I can continue to do the spraying, has what I have found out to my cost is that if it gets too cold the paint dries with a milky shine to it more noticeable on the gloss black when I sprayed the number plate.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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CharlieCeng
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March 5, 2015 - 11:13 am
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cocorico said

CharlieCeng said
That looks like a very early one Dave, not many Bantams have cork clutch plates. Do you mind telling us the engine number?

I beg to differ Charlie, my 1956 D3 had cork lined plates: [Permission to view this media is denied]
o=56

Curious... I thought they went away from cork very early on.

cheers for now,

Simon.

 

'42 Ariel W/NG, '58 Ariel Huntmaster, Masquerading D3, '51 Ariel Square Four Mk1 http://ariel-sq.....ogspot.com

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Hans Kreuzen
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March 5, 2015 - 11:21 am
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bsadave said 
 
I also need the weather to warm up so I can continue to do the spraying, has what I have found out to my cost is that if it gets too cold the paint dries with a milky shine to it more noticeable on the gloss black when I sprayed the number plate.

Don't worry if it is acrylic paint, it should polish out, best to wait for the weather to warm thou or use a heat gun to warm up steel first and keep the draft off.

I'll be posting pictures of my just bought rigid D1 soon.

Hans

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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BSAdave
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March 5, 2015 - 11:29 am
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Thanks Hans,

Wish I had known that earlier it would have saved me from sanding it back down and re spraying it.

Look forward to your pictures, I do like looking at all the pictures on here.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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