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D1 Footrests
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JohnB123
Withern ALFORD
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April 16, 2018 - 5:18 pm
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I need the long bolt out which supports the footrests on my 1953 D1. There seems to be some sort of Alien force holding the rubbers on.

When they are off I assume it will be clear how to pull the bolt. Any help will be gratefully received.

John B. 

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Blue Heeler
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April 17, 2018 - 10:29 am
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Hi John,

Prop bike safely at Bradley Ray angle,so the rubber is soaking in a bowl of hot water to get things softened up.I`m guessing its the end nut and washer it`s hung up on.Have you got an assistant to hold the bike while you pull?Wear tough gloves to prevent hand injury 🙂

That`s if rubbers are worth saving...or else obviously it`s out with the knife of Stanley.

I use a long piece of wire to slide all the components on in order and photograph,to save me scratching my head come rebuild time.

Parts diagrams aren`t always that clear.

[Permission to view this media is denied]

Blue

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JohnB123
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April 17, 2018 - 4:07 pm
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Thanks Blue, with your advice two of us got jiggy with it and heat and extreme force got the devils off. See what you mean about all the bits. I think the washers at the ends were too big which gave us that problem.

UPWARDS AND ONWARDS!!

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Mags 1
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April 20, 2018 - 7:30 pm
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Do I take it you no longer need one now? I have an original BSA one I think for sale.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Blue Heeler
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April 20, 2018 - 7:39 pm
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Mags 1 said
Do I take it you no longer need one now? I have an original BSA one I think for sale.  

Mags,John said he needed the bolt out,not ...needed the bolt 🙂

Blue

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Mags 1
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April 20, 2018 - 7:43 pm
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Blue Heeler said

Mags,John said he needed the bolt out,not ...needed the bolt 🙂

Blue  

Doh!

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Blue Heeler
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April 20, 2018 - 7:49 pm
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Mags 1 said

Doh!  

If it`s any consolation,I misread it to start with 🙂

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JohnB123
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April 20, 2018 - 9:57 pm
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Thanks chaps, the bolt is slightly bent but I will tweek it back before reassembly!

At moment am just fitting a new bearing in the gearbox drive side. Rex Caunt, excellent man, said do a dry fit with a 4 thou shim on the sleeve gear. Drive the bearing in, them split it again and take the shim out and that should leave you with 4 thou end float.

Makes sense to me. Bearing is in the freezer as I write.

 

John,

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Blue Heeler
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April 21, 2018 - 8:02 am
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Sounds like you`re making good progress.

It`s too early in the morning for me to grasp the gearbox shim protocol you described,but Rex Caunt knows what he`s doing,I follow him on the racing site.

Did your bike sit well on its stand and was the bar tight in the frame? Some folk get their frames nicely painted up and then find they have some remedial work to do in this area.

Blue

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JohnB123
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April 21, 2018 - 9:53 pm
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Hi Blue,

I have carefully measured the stand. The original feet had almost worn away. I have welded bits on and it is as near as damn it is to swearing like the original.  The F/R bolt was loose so will get it back in better fettle hopefully.

John.

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Blue Heeler
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April 22, 2018 - 7:30 am
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You`re on the case there John.

Most Bantam models I`ve owned have had worn stand feet.I`ve cut same thickness tubing of same diam and cut piece to match worn away section(easy nowadays with slitting disc), to braze on,so no odd-looking feet extensions.Main improvement I find,is building up with weld in the stand`s stop area.Then getting rid of play in the pivot area with new bolts and drill out and fit steel bushes if necessary.With the footrest bar in the frame models, like yours,any play in that area really affects the stand`s functionality.Attention to those 3 ....or 4 areas in your models case,make a huge difference,as I`m sure you`re finding out.

I see quiet a few "restored" Bantams with either dirty great chunks of metal welded onto the stand feet....or sitting right back on their stands perched on a block of wood that the rider must carry around with them 🙂

Blue

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